Haenyeo -- the latest occupant of that former funeral parlor across the street from Al Di La in Park Slope -- is always referred to as a Korean seafood restaurant (the name is a word for female sea-divers whose economic prominence generated a semi-matriarchal society in a region of Korea), and I guess the menu tilts slightly toward fish. But one of the best dishes is the fried chicken, so don't take that too seriously.
What it definitely is, is Nouvelle Korean. This is the very definition of an Asian cuisine "updated" with Euro ingredients and, to a lesser extent, kitchen techniques. But it's very unpretentious.
Most important, it works. The food is delicious. And -- don't get me wrong -- not in any way overelaborate. Probably my favorite dish was a braised (at least I think it was braised) sablefish in a garlic mushroom sauce. Not a complicated dish, but one jumping with flavor.
I had thought that the kind-of-nearby Insa, serving more trad food, had to be the best possible Korean restaurant in Brooklyn. But I'd have to give Haenyeo the edge.
A more interesting comparison would be with Atoboy in Manhattan. But I've never been to Atoboy. Anyone?