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Member Since 08 Mar 2004
Offline Last Active Oct 24 2009 09:33 PM

#1049911 SD26

Posted by Wilfrid1 on 05 October 2009 - 01:51 PM

I am thoroughly biased fan of the San Domenico team, of course. The changes at the new place on Madison Square are really beyond what you would have expected, though. This isn't a tweaked, cheaper version of the original restaurant - it's a dramatic overhaul. Good news: the food is still excellent.

More with photos at the Pink Pig.

#1040030 The Rise of Casual "Fine Dining"

Posted by Wilfrid1 on 19 August 2009 - 04:34 PM

I think this, for example, is just wrong:

David Chang built the Momofuku empire because he wanted to, not because he had to.

He may well have wanted to (although I think the explanation is more complex), but it is extraordinary to imply that he selected the Momofuku empire from a portfolio of options which included the opportunity (for a young, then not very successful noodle cook?) to open a lavish upscale restaurant which might challenge for four stars.

Chang's genius lay in turning the inevitable into a little gold mine.

#1035221 Julia Child and All That

Posted by Wilfrid1 on 30 July 2009 - 09:47 PM

A long think-piece by Michael Pollan, reflecting on Julia Childs' significance and influence and how times have changed.

Might be interesting to discuss... At least, when we've had time to read it. blush.gif

#1033827 DHABA

Posted by Wilfrid1 on 23 July 2009 - 08:45 PM

QUOTE(Deb Van D @ Jul 23 2009, 01:16 PM) View Post
Mr. Across the Table had the goat curry. Lots of complex flavor, really tasty, but a little tough and on the bone which made it a pain in the ass to eat.

It takes a lot of micro-butchery and then long cooking to produce goat without bones which is halfway tender. Given the price for which you can sell goat, the work is scarcely worthwhile. One place you will find very well-made goat, Dominican style, is at Margot Restaurant (3822 Broadway, between 159th St & 160th St). I go to a lot of trouble when making it for guests; for myself, I just assume there'll be bits of gristle along the way.

Thinking about the subject makes me increasingly interested in trying the goat at Aldea, where I understand the whole animal is broken down and different parts cooked in different ways. At least, I read that somewhere this week.

:This post has been brought to you by a man with a braised goat tail in the refrigerator:

#1033021 Union Square Cafe

Posted by Wilfrid1 on 20 July 2009 - 02:53 PM

Revealing that we have no thread on the place. I suspect that if any members use it, they've nothing new to say about it. I hadn't been for years, but noticed ready availability on Open Table recently, so decided to remind myself what it was like.

It's showing some wear around the edges, but all desire to comment in detail was swept aside by some very poor food. This is a good opportunity for everyone to explain to me both how I should have ordered differently, and how I should better have handled the situation when I didn't like what I got.

I am all ears.

#1027980 Joe Doe

Posted by Wilfrid1 on 29 June 2009 - 07:40 PM

All the fun of the fair:

Eater on Joe Bellicose.

#1026026 The Platt Thread

Posted by Wilfrid1 on 22 June 2009 - 08:48 PM

We may not have Bruni to kick around much longer, and it's not like we've overlooked Adam Platt in the past, but maybe it's time he had his own thread.

From his review of Table 8:

Nowadays, we prefer to anoint humble artisans (David Chang, April Bloomfield) who have slaved for suitable periods of time in anonymous kitchens around town.

link (emphasis added)

Around town? Bloomfield's only U.S. gig before the Spotted Pig was at Chez Panisse. Maybe "around town" includes Berkeley.

Anonymous? Pre-empire, Chang cooked at Mercer Kitchen, Craft and Cafe Boulud.

Think before writing? Hell, no!

#1015991 NYC Cocktail Bars

Posted by Wilfrid1 on 07 May 2009 - 04:58 PM

Raines is another place which works the exclusivity angle hard.

#1000139 Minetta Tavern

Posted by Wilfrid1 on 09 March 2009 - 04:54 PM

No, I haven't been yet, but someone will eventually need to go. Early word from Eater, et al mentions aligot, which I don't recall seeing in New York previously. Boned pigs feet too.

#989411 Chanterelle

Posted by Wilfrid1 on 02 February 2009 - 03:39 PM

I am surprised to see we don't have a Chanterelle thread (except for one about a specific temporary deal). That speaks volumes.

The thirtieth anniversary is upon us, and I have posted a review at the Pink Pig, together with some thoughts about where Chanterelle positions itself these days. I'd be interested to hear from people whose experiences with the restaurant go back much further than mine.

I had some positive things to say, but my - unsurprising? - conclusion was that, given that the price-tag "...should buy you not only some of the best, but also some of the most exciting cooking in the city. Chanterelle doesn't fully fit that description."

#985089 Location

Posted by Wilfrid1 on 16 January 2009 - 12:40 AM

New York has some obscure blocks, if that helps.

#983255 Kidneys

Posted by Wilfrid1 on 08 January 2009 - 02:31 PM

I ate a lot of kidneys growing up - almost exclusively lamb's - even for breakfast.

It's hard to find lamb's kidneys in New York, unless you pick the right moment to ask a greenmarket vendor. Pig's kidneys can be found in Chinatown - they're not my favorite. Veal kidneys survive on one or two old-time French restaurant menus, usually cooked in some kind of wine and cream sauce.

But hey, beef kidneys just showed up in the supermarket. Who could resist? I've never cooked them - they look like veal kidneys, only darker. Research suggests blanching them quickly in hot water and vinegar as the first move.

I shall report back later.

#977179 Dirt Candy

Posted by Wilfrid1 on 08 December 2008 - 12:56 AM

Of course, my drawings are cool.

#970036 Joe Doe

Posted by Wilfrid1 on 03 November 2008 - 03:52 PM

This is a small dinner spot more or less opposite Prune. A dining counter, a string of tight tables, an open kitchen in the back of the room; no reservations; husband cooking and wife managing.

I'd like to cheer it on, but I did have problems with the composition of some of the dishes, especially the entrees. There are some nice things in the kitchen - smoked salt, good honey and cheeses, truffle oil, kid - but the combinations that come out just weren't working for me.

A review at the Pink Pig.

#940640 Veritas

Posted by Wilfrid1 on 14 July 2008 - 02:17 PM

My patience ran out, so I went and are Pugin's tasting menu. Ambitious changes are afoot: the degustation is priced at Daniel/Jean-Georges level, and you would never mistake this for a Scott Bryan menu. There were hiccups in execution, but these are early days. Also, a heavyweight VIP table was getting a lot of the chef's attention.

This is an exciting development: a step up in formality (yes) and ambition for a long-established restaurant. I am also still cheered by the fact that it's easy to find special bottles on that long list which are simply not marked-up against current, local retail prices.

More, with some pictures, at the Pink Pig.