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About mcj

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  • Birthday 06/26/1961

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  1. I'm not familiar with Kenko. Is it as popular in the photography stores there as it appears to be on the Amazon site? Since I haven't heard of that brand before, I'd stick with the major brands as the quality of their glass & coatings are proven... and what's two bucks, really, when it comes down to quality re-assurance?
  2. You can do it within their sight IF you're claiming to treat them as royalty... proving that you're also their food-tester.
  3. quality of the sensor It's not a foolish question at all. The quality of the sensor certainly plays a huge roll with regards to its' low-light capabilities, however, the other major player is the lens. Lenses of dSLR's have a much greater diameter than the lenses of non-slr digital cameras, that means a lot more light-gathering ability. For example: doubling the lens diameter will result in 4 times the amount of light reaching the sensor. (In basic geometry, Area = Pi times the square of the radius = Pi x r2.) Note: 1 f-stop of exposure difference (either by aperture, shutter speed or ISO setting) is equivalent to halving or doubling the amount of light reaching the sensor or film. So, doubling the diameter of a lens, giving 4 times the light, results in an increase of 2 f-stops... or going from ISO 400 to 1600. Combine the superior light-gathering ability of the larger lenses with the higher quality sensors and we can begin to understand this differing performance in the two systems. Hope this helps.
  4. Rusty's leash can be attached to either his collar or his harness. Both have their pros & cons. The harness allows me to pull Rusty away from "something found" without choking him, but it lacks the more immediate control of the collar. I've yet to see a dog that wouldn't risk choking itself to death in order to get closer to something "irresistible" (odour, squirrel, whatever). Rusty's collar uses the snap-type fastener (commonly used on camera bags, backpacks, etc.), but the length has a tendency to work loose without notice. That has allowed Rusty to get out of his collar, usually while playing with another dog, but could be hazardous if he were so playful near traffic. I wondered how to combine the advantages of the collar and the harness while mitigating their disadvantages. My solution: Securing the leash to the collar through the loop under the fastener of the harness prevents Rusty from getting out of his collar, inadvertently or otherwise, while maintaining as much of the advantages of both the collar and the harness.
  5. mcj


    I just finished reading the thread... and the obituary. I'm still stunned. I wondered why I hadn't seen her posts in some time, but hadn't expected this. What a loss. She certainly affected a lot of people and the touching posts here (and in her guest book) reflect the extent of her presence. She will be greatly missed. My condolences to her family and friends.
  6. How does Callie manage to use the cordless phone for their collaboration? Sharing a pdf online is one thing, but using a keyboard is more cumbersome than speaking... ah, I forgot about the mouse. Do they use iChat to video conference?
  7. I recently received an e-mail appearing to be a mail server failure-to-deliver message from msn. (Google identified it as spam & blocked the images.) Knowing it was fraudulent, I placed my cursor over the "unsubscribe" link, looked at the browsers' status bar and saw a link to a Chinese website. I figured that it was either a phishing expedition (to collect verified e-mail addresses or even IP addresses) or one of the ways that the cyber spies got their malware onto their victims computers. Awareness is the first defence.
  8. They "could not say conclusively that the Chinese government was involved:, yet: and show that the Chinese government and Chinese intelligence service are not only aware of it, but actively participating in this information theft. For old news about some of the monitoring activities of our own governments: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ECHELON.
  9. I'd be surprised if the online services didn't use software similar to that of the actual photography shops. They don't really need to be concerned about pixel-per-inch, but about total pixels in both dimensions. The image "resolution" becomes redundant since it's simply re-calculated for the desired output size. Simply increasing the pixels per inch count by itself won't make for better prints because Photoshop automatically alters the image dimensions accordingly, thus enlarging the image... using whichever algorithm is in place to generate the non-existing pixels. The result is a blurry photo. To achieve the higher pixel per inch count without decreasing the quality of the image, the image dimensions must be restored to the original pixel count, so that only the resolution is changed. This only results in a physically smaller print IF the service merely prints pixel-for-pixel. However, their software can adjust image quality to some degree, thus they a accept range of image sizes for any given print size. Even home photo-printing software does that nowadays.
  10. I haven't used Dreamweaver, but went to the PhotoshopCafe website and found (as I suspected) that that sites' creator had also made a companion site for Dreamweaver: http://www.dreamweavercafe.com/.
  11. Actually, 2,000 millivolts = 2 volts. Just drop the "milli" prefix. Depending upon the expansion card and whatever protections may-or-may-not exist within the circuitry, it could take only 50V or less to damage the parts on the board and render it useless. Therefore, while the higher voltages of some electrostatic discharges are quite obvious, the vast majority occur without raising the slightest suspicion that it has occurred. Provided that your bare-metal computer case has a power supply installed and is plugged into the wall (NOT a good idea) to complete the ground, etc., etc. Watch what you touch while you're grounded! As I understood your descriptions, you were assembling the computer from scratch, therefore the case was not grounded and all of the various components were floating at different voltages until they came into contact with one another during assembly. I'm guessing that the workbench or table wasn't grounded either. That is the first thing that requires grounding. Special ESD-conductive mats are available for that purpose (not exactly inexpensive) and must be connected to an electrical ground. The more you know about electricity, the better. The mat doesn't act like aluminum foil, but provides a safe, resistive path to ground to slowly discharge any static voltages present. The spiral cable has a resistor embedded within it. Similar to the mat, it slows down the discharge at a safe rate. The wrist strap (just the metal part on the inner side) must have good electrical contact with your skin or else it's useless. It helps if your skin is a little damp under the contact surface (lightly spit on it once in a while if you have to). The various cards & chips are stored in ESD bags. These bags have a couple of properties to protect their contents: 1) they don't generate an electrostatic charge, unlike sandwich bags, cling-film, paper, styrofoam, etc.; 2) they shield their contents from the harm caused by external sources of electrostatic charges — like moving the part across a carpet until a static-free work area is reached. Always keep the parts in these bags until needed and ONLY remove them when you AND the equipment are properly grounded (when everything is at the same potential, no harmful electrostatic discharge will occur). Here's hoping that you were very lucky so far.
  12. So much for doggie poker. Rusty's portrait:
  13. I'll see that tongue... And raise you a bum...
  14. And the jeopardy you were putting yourself in, as well. A normal camera lens cleaner should do the trick, using the disposable papers, and several applications depending upon the severity of the contamination. Use only lens cleaning tissues, since paper towels (and many facial tissues) are like sandpaper and tissues with lotion will leave their own grease behind. Toilet paper varies greatly, but if it doesn't scratch the delicate coatings on your lens, it'll leave a fine dusting of lint all over it. If you're camera is an SLR or bigger, then get a UV filter (or something similar) to act as a guard for your lens. I'd rather sacrifice a $10-20 filter than a $200+ lens. Besides protecting the lens from direct contamination (not only from dust & grease, but from wind-blown sand and other harsh particulates), it'll also provide a degree of protection from some physical mishaps. This happened to one of my cameras several years ago when one leg of an old tripod gave out and sent the camera crashing to the floor. The full impact was absorbed by the filter. The lens & camera survived without a scratch or malfunction. If your camera is a point-and-shoot, then you're pretty much out of luck. None that I know of allows the attachment of filters.
  15. mcj

    Coffee shop uniforms

    Wash & wear, mostly. Lower cleaning bills and no ironing. I wonder if they have casual Fridays?
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