Wilfrid

Cod loin with a revival of the Albarino, raisin, caper butter sauce I made for the scallops on Thanksgiving, a few rancho beans thrown in. And yes, that's one of several portions of (frozen) leftover soofle.

It was a bit like a frog trying to cross the FDR. Squelch.

Wells returns with a lengthy piece on Sushi Sho (not technically a review).

We need this thread or at least I do. Twelve and a half miles walking in the last three days including the hideous climb from Frederick Douglass Blvd back up to the Heights this afternoon ("Manhattan is essentially flat," Calvin Trillin). And half of one of those days was spent with airports and NJ Transit. I'm tired.

If that's a half portion just call it Big Pig.

Airport story. I underestimated the ease of getting to my gate at Portland (ME) this morning. Zero traffic on the road, and the airport is nearby, and for the first time ever I am the only person in the security line. No one ahead or behind. So rather than being a reasonable hour ahead of boarding, I am 90 minutes or more. There is Starbucks or there is a bar. I seat myself at the bar, telling myself it’s too early to be drinking. Drip coffee. As 9.30 approaches I consider breakfast. I ask my server about the avocado toast. A fierce woman appears from the kitchen and says breakfast is over at 9.30. Okay, it’s 9.27 but whatever. At that point, the only other person in the place, a very small older woman, rushes to the counter and banging her menu down threatens the staff with “the rage” of someone who had come there just for breakfast. She continues ranting as my server and I exchange rolled eyes. After she storms out a party comes in and orders from the post-9.30 menu and I would have thought the kitchen could make avocado toast as easily as burgers for 6 five minutes later. I settle back with a cold cider as that‘s not really drinking.

One of those occasions a direct comparison in eating is easy. I was in New Orleans last month and ate a lot of oysters, from high end (Seawitch) to low end (fried at the market). The oysters in Portland are at a different level.

I wouldn’t expect to be served an entire saddle. Is it the loin he’s serving?

How completely different Eventide and Scales are. Eventide does have a bar and several dining rooms but is still compact and cozy. Scales is a massive barn of a place on the docks and it was packed last night. The oysters, again, were great. Crab fritters were okay but the tartare sauce, I assume made fresh, was delicious. Main was a reminder of my childhood: baked haddock. Three courses, three good wines BTG, a digestif and espresso, about $160. Another saving here, it’s hard to pay as much as $10 for an Uber.

Glad I got here before 7, swarms of people at the door being turned away. Vieux Carre.

My daughter reports that it’s sixty degrees warmer where her mother is than where I am, but I suspect she’s making do with a bottle of Presidente.

Last adventure begins with a smoked rye Manhattan at Independent Ice Co

I believe Rosner and Schneier made it no further than the bar. And now we have Zimmi’s in the West Village with no availability.

After the museum of art I ended up wandering around the Old Port, so back to Eventide for the lobster roll.

Join da club.

Just got the check ten bucks for a Tanqueray martini, $11 for a good pet nat. I am making money just sitting here.

$18 for a dozen outstanding local oysters. Then something called a scallop yaki waffle (with eel sauce and umami mayo) that I am at a loss to describe. Crunchy and warm it was a good contrast.

That was a good plan. At 9.30 Eventide has eight people seated and oysters are half price.

Easy flight. Pre-show Negroni at Bramhall. Why so few street signs?

Very good!

Fabulous improv though.

I did see the new U.S. dates, nothing in the northeast yet. As I just booked a roundtrip to Barcelona to see them, I think I can skip Boise with a good conscious.

Bridges, on a block of Bowery/Chinatown I had previously viewed as a destination for char siu bau. Schneier and Rosner agree that this is a hot spot. I think Rosner makes the food sound better. Since we can't get in, we cannot judge who is right. If anyone breaks the code, let us know.

I bet it doesn't feature Yachts.

Thank you. Very old now. William Wayne & Co, University Place.