
Diancecht
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off-topic, but did you know the nyt has a program where you can study how to review restaurants? the price tag is $6,990 not including fees. ———— This course will encourage students to deeply explore their own thoughts and ideas about food and food culture and to let their experiences inspire their own expressions via the lenses of contemporary food movements. In addition, students will meet the innovators, critics and observers of emerging trends in each of the fields that drive food conversation, and investigate how they are building their careers to succeed. This multidisciplinary approach to learning encourages students to sample different fields and employ critical thinking and creative problem-solving skills. The course is geared toward students eager to discover their passions and try something new. From site visits and excursions to lectures by expert practitioners, the course is curated to give students a newfound sense of direction for their future studies by examining a diverse selection of subject material.
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turnip cakes, curry puffs they were from hang ah tea room (1 pagoda place (sacramento street)) in chinatown
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chicken with olives and raisins; cabbage braised in wine, with butter and saffron. we ran out of ground cumin, and rather than toast some cumin seeds and pound that in a mortar and pestle, i subbed some garam masala. uh-oh. hubby said, “this was not your best effort, although you had many successes lately” oh well
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beef stew with portobello mushrooms, porcini, and red wine; roasted vegetables (cauliflower, carrots, celery, zucchini, onion) with extra-virgin olive oil and crimson grape vinegar. italian fruit salad for dessert.
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oatmeal with cinnamon, cardamom, salt, butter, raisins, almonds, pine nuts, date molasses, and a splash of rose water.
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i missed this january 2025 update of an article that was originally published in april 2024: This former food-hall stand serving fare from Kerala, a state on the southwestern coast of India, has found a larger home for its loud flavors, courtesy of the owners Margaret Pak and Vinod Kalathil. Everything here, down to the stainless-steel plates the food is served on, feels home style. Expect fish fries, yogurt rice and coconutty curries whose remnants you’ll eagerly sop up with appam, lacy domes made of rice and coconut. Even the more playful dishes, like Tater Tots dusted with chaat masala, feel like clever snacks devised in a pinch by an enterprising home cook.
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all noodles, all the time On my second visit, Mr. Sun showed me a bucket in which he had just combined 20 spices — including peppercorns, cinnamon, star anise and bay leaf — with salt and sugar. The blend is bloomed in a little broth, and just before the soup is served, it’s spooned over the top to lend a burst of sinus-clearing warmth. This broth, which cooks for three hours, was the one I most wanted to sip from a cup. The thin noodles (the only size offered, and pulled to order) were as tensile as guitar strings, the result of Mr. Sun’s testing more than 10 kinds of wheat flour until he found one that produced sturdy, unyielding noodles. Both the flaps of beef shank and peppery radish turned rich and supple after a short swim in the broth, the cluster of cilantro and scallions providing some verve.
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a look at hospital food
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i kind of wonder if priya will become the next critic via osmosis. click ======== Yet several cooks The New York Times interviewed on the job said they saw the work as a chance to make a difference in the lives of the detainees, providing them a rare reminder of their humanity: a meal. “We become more trustworthy because of the food,” said Mr. Reina, a cheerful man with an understated swagger who has cooked at Rikers for 29 years. “Because they want to eat better.” His job involves much more than cooking — he considers himself a therapist, instructor and mentor for the detainees who help in the kitchen. He never asks them what they did to end up at Rikers. “Anybody could be on the other side of that fence,” he said. “I don’t judge.”
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new york food journalism
Diancecht replied to Diancecht's topic in General food and drink discussion
blogs haven’t stopped and this is a good introduction to a new place on my daily reading list: “At Wenwen, the stem-like Chinese vegetable, is served as a refreshing crunchy salad, enhanced with a dressing of red vinegar, numbing Szechuan peppers, sesame seeds, and lots of garlic. It’s wonderfully balanced and is not over the top with the heat, but gives just a light numbing sensation that is tamed by a hit of sweetness. It was so delicious. And how many people in this country can say they had celtuce for dinner? Price: $13- 18 replies
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- new york magazine
- food network magazine
- (and 3 more)
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at the bottom of the menu is a key with letters a to e. for some of the items, each of these dishes corresponds to a letter, and each letter is priced accordingly. so all the “a”s cost $6.95 (just picking a number out of a hat), and so forth. mark the dishes you want in the menu, then a series of carts comes by your table and you’ll receive your order.
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all told, the bill came out to $211 (including a 20% surcharge). prices are on par with yank sing for better quality. there are a few new things below. i passed on the chicken feet this time though.
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i told hubby that i wanted to try something new given that i’ve been living here for almost a decade and thus far, we’ve only been to a very small handful of restaurants when it comes to dim sum and chinese new year. so i made a reservation for today at koi palace in daly city. and a good thing too, the entire place was packed. this shot gives you a sense of how many people were here. there was easily twice as many diners as you see in this picture.
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is it too soon? “Inspired by the success of the Corner Store, my partners and I are eager to continue to expand our presence in New York. Our latest lease at 86 Bedford Street is particularly meaningful,” says Remm in a statement. “We’re thrilled to bring our next innovative concept to this storied location. Chef Michael Vignola of the Corner Store will lead the charge in crafting a menu that will pay homage to its rich history while introducing a fresh, contemporary edge to the dining scene. We look forward to expanding into the west village with a very special location.”
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Another edgy dish, which reads as unremarkable on the menu, is the branzino. The boneless whole fish is roasted in the wood flames until the skin sizzles and crisps, then arrives at the table with its face intact — a treat for those who prize the tender cheeks. Feel free to request it headless, but either way, accompanied by a heap of nearly melted, saffron-scented onions and pine nuts, it is an unqualified triumph. —— the comments section in the article mention the lack of prices several times, and now we know why
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oooh worth considering a revisit then…during a forthcoming trip
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haven’t been there or smith & wollensky for that matter (and i just learned s&w is a chain, which shows you how clueless i am)
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minestrone di verdure, e macedonia di frutta. i managed to clear out all the vegetables in the fridge. that’s great; it means we can get new stuff in the next few days.
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i hope you like $14 mac-n-cheese
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the internet is forever, or so the saying goes. here’s a long excerpt from an interview in 2016. maybe the next critic will keep this in mind? How do you decide between not reviewing a restaurant or giving a negative review? There are all kinds of restaurants that if one reviewed them, would get a negative review. More than 90% of the restaurants in New York probably don't merit a star in my system. Most of them are not interesting enough to my readers to have any kind of justification for knocking them. If you're going to knock a place, you have to have some sort of reason. Per Se just has such a reputation. Senor Frogs, I did not like most of the food, but the place was so nutty that I thought it would make for good copy. A couple years ago I did 21, and it's an important, historic New York resturant but I don't think it gives good value on the food for the history and location. I did an affectionate negative review. Senor Frogs is an affectionate negative review. I read your Senor Frogs review and it didn't sound negative, not like Per Se. I had a good time there. I don't think it's a great restaurant but as a surreal circus in the center of Manhattan it's an experience. I'll ask this question generally, but you know what I'm talking about* so you can either answer generally or specifically. How do you decide, when giving a negative review, how many stars to give? * (To readers: Wells gave Per Se two stars even though he called it a "no-fun house" and ripped it a new orifice; he may have made Thomas Keller cry. As a condition of our interview Wells said he would not speak specifically about that review because he doesn't want to "inadvertently say something that expands on the original criticism.") It's hard. I try not to write many reviews that are a defense of the star rating I've given. You read some reviews that every line is a defense of the star rating. Four stars, you almost have to do that. There are so few of them. They're at the tippy-top. You have to explain why it's there. I find that kind of review doesn't allow me to have nuances, for me to have mixed feelings. I could write it's good in these ways, it's not good in these ways. I don't want to read that. I want to give myself some freedom to write some reviews that have some shading and hope the readers understand that not everything's all good, not everything's all bad. Readers don't all need to be led by the hand as to why this is one star or two stars. As a result people argue about my star ratings. But they'd argue anyway.
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new york food journalism
Diancecht replied to Diancecht's topic in General food and drink discussion
The last thing I wanted to ask you was how what we’ve talked about so far relates to food criticism. You’ve been careful to point out that you are not a reviewer — you are someone who writes about food. So, perhaps this is too big a question, but: How does one approach the need or the desire for food media to be about connoisseurship — to be about things that are genuinely good — versus things that people actually engage with on a day-to-day basis? I think about this a lot and I think it’s also a thing that sort of inadvertently has become kind of a defining element of my career as a writer. I’ve written about chicken tenders, and Olive Garden, and the Popeyes chicken sandwich. I eat across the spectrum and it’s been fascinating to me that the things that I write about — what we might call more “mass food” — have often been my most successful or my most resonant pieces. There’s a kind of “poptimism” in the way we think about food, much like poptimism as a critical phenomenon in music.5 And I think there’s a backlash or retaliation in some ways against the cliché of fancy European food media, or like stereotypical food media, and instead you have the chicken tender, the ode to ugly food, the ode to diner coffee. I think that writing about food that is underappreciated, even if it is extraordinarily popular, gives us space to talk about our daily lives in a way that writing about things that are special, and only things that are special, does not. And to give the quotidian and the unspecial the same regard and the same grace we give to celebration food or expensive food or rare food and the experiences that attend them. So, the small moments of filling up the car with gas with your dad and he buys you a Hostess cherry pie and that becomes your special ritual. That’s not me saying the Hostess cherry pie is the greatest food in the world. That’s me saying that moment with my dad was an important moment. And because food is more than just food, because that moment was important, the Hostess cherry pie is the greatest food in the world. So food media moves away from service writing, which is you should buy this because it’s delicious or because it’s cool, and more toward: our lives are valuable. The small parts of our lives are valuable, the quiet parts of our lives are valuable. And the value in that does not demand observation. But when it is observed, it reveals brilliant facets of beauty. ——- much more here from an interview helen rosner gave in november 2022- 18 replies
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- new york magazine
- food network magazine
- (and 3 more)
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apparently the french would not approve ====== Former Nice mayor and cookbook author Jacques Médecin was a strict salad traditionalist. His 1972 cookbook Cuisine Nicoise: Recipes from a Mediterranean Kitchen called for the salad to be served in a wooden bowl rubbed with garlic,[5]and excluded boiled vegetables: "never, never, I beg you, include boiled potato or any other boiled vegetable in your salade niçoise."[6] Médecin wrote that the salad should be made "predominantly of tomatoes" which should be "salted three times and moistened with olive oil".[6] Hard-boiled eggs were added, and either anchovies or canned tuna, but not both. He incorporated raw vegetables such as cucumbers, purple artichokes, green peppers, fava beans, spring onions, black olives, basil and garlic, but no lettuce or vinegar.[6] According to Rowley Leigh, Médecin believed that salade niçoise "was a product of the sun and had to be vibrant with the crisp, sweet flavours of the vegetables of the Midi."[7] Médecin advocated presenting the dish as a composed salad, commenting, "As the various ingredients that go into salade niçoise are of bright and contrasting colours, they can be arranged most decoratively in the salad bowl."[6] An organization called Cercle de la Capelina d'Or, led for many years by Renée Graglia until her death in 2013,[8] continues to protest against deviation from traditional local recipes. The group, which certifies restaurants in Nice, sticks with Médecin's standards. They reject commonly included ingredients such as green beans and potatoes, as well as innovations such as including sweet corn, mayonnaise, shallots and lemon.[3][9] In 2016, French Michelin-starred chef Hélène Darroze posted a salade niçoise recipe on Facebook that included cooked potatoes and green beans.[10] According to journalist Mathilde Frénois, the reaction on Facebook was quick and hostile from the "purists". Darroze's version was called "a massacre of the recipe", a "sacrilege", and a violation of the "ancestral traditions" of the salad. She was warned that it is "dangerous to innovate".[11]