Robert Brown
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Posts posted by Robert Brown
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Several of the more sophisticated gastronomic travelers and writers I know consider Le Clarence, the restaurant off the Champs-elysee, to be the best recent addition to the Paris haute-cuisine scene in years. They all love it. The highly-regarded wine and restaurant writer and founder of Gastromondiale Vedat Milor has written a compelling review you will find here:
https://www.gastromondiale.com/food1/2018/10/30/le-clarence-the-return-of-french-fine-dining
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Who is Chef Mirachi? Wat happened to Cesar?
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Am I mistaken, but has Brooklyn Fare lost its caché? I don't read about it, and no one has posted about it. I don't go to New York restaurants so often, but I am curious about this one.
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I didn't know about the place and the food hall, the result of moving to the peace and quiet of northern Westchester. However, my money man has Claus Meyer as a client, which is how I found out about all this. We went right to GCT after the money-man meeting five days ago. I was very happy with both the food hall and the restaurant. My top kvetch was the all-American wine list since I don't drink them. It's a matter of principle that I don't order tasting menus when there is an a la carte possibility. Except for a couple of meals at Acme, I never had this New Nordic whatever. My theory is that as great French cuisine fell by the wayside, cuisine or restaurants of other countries started to look better by comparison. I really think that the best French chefs of La Nouvelle Cuisine era had more technique in the little finger than 99% of chefs today. Nonetheless, we very much enjoyed our dinner at Agern. While none of the dishes elicited the hand holding your fork go limp, what we had was flavor-packed. We were flummoxed by the cooking of the halibut on the bone. It didn't seem at all grilled as our waiter said it was, and we wondered how real the smoke taste was. The texture wasn't flaky, but more like it was sous-vide. Certainly the chef cooked it as advertised as there was no reason to doubt it. But you could have fooled me. We paid something like $240. which surprised me, as I thought we might be in for significantly more. In the market, the bread is about the best around, and the banana pound cake is memorable. I am curious how often the sparse menu changes. I hope it's often. I hope the market helps supoort the restaurant. Open Table shos availability whenever you want to go.
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I and three of my pals from Turkey have written a substantive essay on the above topic. I think you will like it. It is a co-production of Gastromondiale (www.gastromondiale.com) and my newly-renamed site Restaurant Politics. (www.restaurantpolitics.com). I have also posted on my own an essay that is about two polar opposites: The World's 50 Best Restaurants list and the Slow Food's 'Osterie d'Italia".
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I meant the same dish twice!
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Who among us has ever a dish back twice?
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Does anyone have any dining info. or experiences in Takamatsu or Toyama? Has anyone been to the Benesse Art Islands? There isn't much there in terms of restaurants, but I could use a suggestion or two if there is.
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Nearly every fall right after Thanksgiving, Vedat Milor and I make our respective trips to Piedmont to dine on white truffles and drink good wine. On our websites (mine is www.engagingfood.com and his is Gastromondiale) we created a question and answer on the topic. I think it is quite sophisticated and informative. While it has specific recommendations, it is mostly about the general execution of such excursions.
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Sneakeater, that's wild. I was there last night and I had the same chicken and thought it was great. Same for the oeufs en meurette. Did you have those?
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As I said, it's all relative. I'm about to have my third meal in five days at my favorite restaurant in Venice. It puts Le Bernardin to shame in terms of offerings, freshness and preparation. it also lets you know where you are.
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How can a restaurant specializing in fish that is in a place that is fish-deprived relative to countries surrounded by seas and offers a junk fish (escolar) banned in Italy and Japan be voted the best fish restaurant there is? Better than serious restaurants getting fish off the Tuscan coast, the Adriatic/Venice lagoon and the inland seas of Japan? These lists are a joke and are meaningless to anyone the least bit gourmand.
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On one hand the Michelin people bitch and moan about how French cuisine isn't getting its proper due, but on the other hand when a foreigner comes along and does it with no gimmicks and in a way that respects and enhances exactly what it is that Michelin bemoans, then it's as if the chef and restaurant don't exist. There's no rhyme or reason to their ratings in New York, etc.. It's only about selling tires.
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If you feel that Le Coucou deserves a star or two, then for all intents and purposes, it has as many stars as you think it should have.
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"Sittin' over here on Parchman Farm....." I bought all his sides. He was wonderful helping getting one through the vicissitudes of adolescence.
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I replied on John's site "Doc, how did you get the reservation? Time travel?" But I can't find it on his site.
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Sounds like it could be one of the ten motels that changed America.
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Has anyone ever stayed in a Howard Johnson motel? Otherwise Chez Panisse, Schrafft's, The Four Seasons (and Valle's Steakhouse on Route 5 in West Springfield, Mass.), Mama Leone's.
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I got scared Freedman would include the French Laundry! I don't think you can complain about his choices given the universe to choose from.
LA Michelin Stars 2019
in California, Nevada and Hawaii
Posted
“The Michelin California Guide Rush “ and the recent sordid history of Michelin Guides you will find on my new site devoted to Michelin bashing.
www.michelinscars.com.