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Robert Brown

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Everything posted by Robert Brown

  1. Without going into the diner's drone, I can unequivically say that after two visits, Acme to me must be one of the handful of interesting restaurants that has opened here recently. In fact, I find i such among all restaurants in town. The chef has a very interesting culinary turn of mind, an attribute in really short supply even outside of New York. He's doing interesting work with ingredients that likely make him feel homesick, but he has enough arrows in his quiver to create meals that are unpretentious and distinctive without being gimmicky or show-off like. One one hand the products are, f
  2. Robert Brown


    For whatever it means, the Cheataly wine shop sells a bottle of Peppoli for almost 50% more than Garnet or Yorkshire. I imagine the greed spills over into the restaurants. As for "shitty European beef", the best steaks I have ever bought are the Chianina ribeyes (with the bone) I get from the class butcher in Bordighera. Of course the quality varies, but when I get a good one, it's superior to the best I have ever bought at Lobel's.
  3. Dear Sirs, Being in a pinch to prepare for a small gathering for the NFC Championship game, I swallowed hard and paid $21.00 in your Madison Ave, store for French sea salt you put in your own Mean & Deluxe small glass jars. It’s one thing to greatly overpay for one of nature’s products, but another for you not to promulgate a word on the origin of the salt. Is it from, say, Ile de Re, Ile d’Orleon, the Aquitane Coast, the Camargue,etc. For all I know you poured it out of one of those tall cardboard boxes of French sea salt you buy in a supermarket in France for five Euros or so.
  4. Robert Brown


    Quite simply one of the worst dinners I've had in New York. I thought the menu placed ahead of time on the table was the "plats du jour", but represented the totality of offerings: three entress, three main courses and a cheese plate or one dessert. The main courses were clearly cooked sous-vide so that a steelhead trout (armed, no doubt) was mush. Everything was hyped with vinaigrette, sugar or garlic. It's relatively cheap at $40. for three courses, but so are the ingredients. I have a Shake Shack half a block from my house and this joint across the street from my gallery. How unlucky can yo
  5. I ate there only once about three years ago. My meal bordered on atrocious. The restaurant was running on fumes. Trotter was in Mexico trying to open a hotel-restaurant, which apparently never came to fruition, just as the one he planned in New York. A young apprentice-type in the kitchen, which was where we ate, proudly proclaimed that everything was cooked sous-vide, That says it all. It sounds like time passed it by quite a while ago; probably soon afte Grant Achatz hit town.
  6. You don't mean "pick your own" in the agricultural meaning, do you? Yes, the implication is don't partake of white truffles here unelss you want to piss your money away. However, you could get lucky, but I don't think this was a good year to try as you would have needed to be luckier still. The white Alba truffles noticeably start to deteriorate after five days, so they say, so it's conceiveable that if a good one got here in a hurry, you could find one you would really enjoy. The fact is, I am finding it increasingly more difficult to find restaurateurs and chef-restaurateurs with full-time i
  7. Plese excuse the digression, but to return to white Alba truffles, I would stay away from them unless you are in the provences of Cuneo or Asti during the peak period, which sometimes doesn't begin until November and may extend into January if there is no snow on the ground. Then you can choose your truffle among several; not always a guarantee of choosing the best one, but at least you can smell and squeeze it,and start off with a whole one and pay only for what you eat. (Read my important truffle-consuming discovery that I wrote aboutin Docsconz's blog).http://docsconz.com/2011/12/alba-an-ed
  8. Robert Brown


    Any magazine that promotes itself with jargon like that can't be readable or insightful, not to mention providing delightful reading.
  9. Lippy, thanks for clearing this up. I'm looking forward to seeing his 700 page guide.
  10. Does anyone know what's up, or not up, with Opinionated About?
  11. In a reply to her interview with Alain Allegretti, the chef of the recently-opened La Petite Makison, I submitted the following to her: Being a part-time resident of Nice, I have dined at La Petite Maison many times. The food used to be quite good; in the past couple of years it has declined as the owners have become mercenary. Licensing the name and trying to convince people in New York that somehow they are communing with the Nice namesake is absurd. (If the Pacri/Villa Pacri owners are looking for one authentic aspect of the Nice outpost to import faithfully, they can treat the non-
  12. Robert Brown


    By more than just default, Tulsi is, as far as I can tell, the best Indian restaurant in New York. Other than a long wait between the appetizers and the main courses and a single 12 oz. Indian beer on the handful of beer offerings, the five dishes three of us had between us (not counting a three-part dessert featuring cardoman chocolate)ranged from quite nice to superb. A plate of five chaats and Hemat's perfectly-timed well-known lamb chops were my favorites, but the cauliflower appetizer, pistachio chicken and rogan josh (bones included as they should be) all distinguished themselves. Restau
  13. Robert Brown


    Any resemblance to the mother ship in Turin is purely coincidental. New York’s Eataly is above all an ambitious manifestation of the difference between Italy and America. Italy’s gastronomic landscape is a dynamic cornucopia of food, produce and culinary invention and history at its best; America is mostly about, as is this Eataly, exercises in promotion, marketing and glorification of the mediocre. Our Eataly, so far as a first and walk-around visit provided, does really nothing to up the food ante, as I was caught in a vortex of mostly mediocre produce and anti-gastronomic rules and regulati
  14. No, it's obvious I went to Noodle Bar instead. I didn't mean the food there is diluted, just gastronomy, that's all.
  15. You're right. LGA doesn't have flights to Europe. I don't have to accept dilution, greed and preying on innocents if I know where to go to avoid it.
  16. Six of us had the chickens last night and to a man (actually I was the only man) all agreed the meal was a disaster. It was really bad execution and conception. We left seven pieces untouched. Also the pork buns were the worst I've ever had there: fatty, greasy, and otherwise tasteless, When you see that Chang may be the most discussed and written-about chef in America now, serving food in restaurants that are raucus (except for Momofuku Ko), uncomfortable, and without class or charm, you want to run to the nearest airport and get on the next flight to Paris or Milan.
  17. Why isn't David Ortiz taking the legal supplements he said he was in taking in 2003 when he hit 31 homers and batted .288?
  18. I don't listen to many jazz musicians or albums after 1975, but I am struck by the number of times I hear it in restaurants, TV ads and movie soundtracks. It appears that be-bop especially is now engrained in certain aspects of daily life as "America's classical music" and that musicians like John Coltrane, Miles Davis, Thelonious Monk, Charlie Parker, Duke Ellington and others have now become listenable to the music-loving population at large. There must be some sort of bedrock interest that keeps businesses like Mosaic or Uptown Records in business, though clearly it's not "big business".
  19. Has there been any talk about the pastrami at the reincarnated 2nd Ave. Deli? My last pastrami sandwich at Katz's was sub-par for the first time.
  20. As I once wrote on that other site, we have our very own Jacques Maximin.
  21. "Foie" means liver, pure and simple. It can refer to duck liver, calves liver, chicken liver, "terrine de foie gras", "foie gras chaud", "foie gras frais",etc. etc. As the word "vehicle", its use is yet another example of the debasement of our language and making what should be precise imprecise. It's how we have managed to make the principal dish in a meal the first course, completely reversing and turning upside down the main categories of a menu and a meal.
  22. Robert Brown


    To be succinct about it, don't bother. It's noisy. Nothing we ordered tasted fresh or like it should. The best was we got out of there at $40. a head with a drinkable bottle of Chianti Classico. It's places like this that keeps self-professed foodies clueless about what good food is. It also doesn't look like it will fold any time soon.
  23. Has anyone noticed a serious deterioration recently? All four of us did a couple of months ago.
  24. I've made five posts, Lex. (Now six). But better late than not at all. I forgot to add that Shalizar and Lorenzo & Maria are next door to each other.
  25. My favorite take-out is Lorenzo & Maria. My favorite delivery meals come from Shalizar. At least they're the freshest tasting I've found near my house.
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