I have a soft spot for Cafe d'Alsace, not only because it, along with Taste, is the only good restaurant within walking distance from my house, but also for its politeness, efficiency and honesty. By French-Alsatian standards, nearly every dish misses the mark, but not always by much. By New York standards, it nevertheless wraps all the BS places around the proverbial little finger. Of dishes that I have ordered so far, the choucroute garni is still at the top of my list, even if it lacks the ham hock that I'm used to. Steak tartare there is handicapped by too much Worcestershire and a somewh