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Robert Brown

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Everything posted by Robert Brown

  1. I'm with Adrian. It rewards clever ordering as you can mix and match among menus if you don't want to order a la carte. It is expensive, but very generous. Inexpensive (relative) taste good there. Go with a big appetite. It is an institution.
  2. Robert Brown

    Fish & Game

    I go to Hudson fairly often, but never for dining. However, I can't recommend more highly the prepared food shop Talbott & Arding on Warren Street a few blocks up from the train station. Everything about it is sophisticated--the interior design, the packaging, and the lettering. Here the selection of a few dozen or more foreign and domestic cheeses is intelligent (and sophisticated) and with nary a one in less-than-perfect condition. The soups are wonderful and worth taking two or three home. They make their own crackers, sandwiches, roast chicken, and on and on in goes. Kate Arding is fro
  3. At least give him the benefit of the doubt and call it a Baldor truck.
  4. Damon looks a bit like Phil Mickelson. Paumgarten writes that the kitchen was too clean and odorless for the preparation of the meal that he had. So you know what that means and what it might tell us. Also, what is the size of Damon's repetoire and does he really need one that changes? It would be nice to know how deep his creativity is, and is it the kind of place at which you experience all there is in one go. Also, other than a charity event he did in California, why doesn't he cook at any of these international confabs? Oh yes, if you had the opportunity to visit a super-cult restaurant in
  5. Just as we were sitting around for hours speculating how Naz's lawyers might get him off in the final episode tomorrow of "The Night Is", along comes Paumgarten so that we can also try to figure out if whether or not Damon is a pathological liar. No wonder we can't get anything done this week.
  6. If memory serves me right, McPhee's restaurant was in Pennsylvania. He said it was on a par with Paul Bocuse, which was saying a lot in the 1970s. Other food writers scoped it out and said it was nothing great. So much for objectivity in evaluating restaurants.
  7. I'm glad to read this. There used to be two Czech restaurants in the UES. One was called Praha (or Czechoslovak Praha) and the other's name I don't remember. (Not the Cafe Bohemia, the jazz club in the village in the 1950s). I like this kind of food and plan to go soon. Is food of the Austro-Hungarian region surging around here?
  8. In the mid- 70s, I befriended Rogers E.M. Whitaker, the E.M. Frimbo of the New Yorker and the world-famous railroad buff. What was most memorable of a very memorable fellow was that he knew exactly how many miles he had covered on trains during his life. I think it was in the 4,000,000s or so, but for all I know, it could have been 20 million. He also knew how many miles he was going to add before leaving for his next voyage. For some reason he took a liking to me, and I got to spend quite a lot of time with him before he died. He was a denizen, along with other New Yorker writers, of Cafe Nic
  9. We gave up on Tetou two years ago after going every year since ca. 1998. The menu says nothing about wild-caught fish, but when I asked a higher-up, he said flat out that everything was wild. He had to have been fibbing. What's the worst is that there has to be a minimum order of two bouillibaisse, so if you're two people, perhaps even three, you're going to pay up (what, about 150 euros per) for twice as much as you need. The roasted tomatoes are very good, though. It;s also cash-only. They have their hooks into the tourist trade rather big time.
  10. Two or three times a year, the Times runs a food essay on its Sunday op-ed page. This one strikes me as a wasted opportunity. Not only is it impertinent to anyone outside the Bay Area, but is written by someone who appears to have little significant dining experience or insight, and is one of these food writers who is sent out to write what invariably are puff pieces with, at most, token criticism. Then, of course, the editor reworks the story second-hand. There are so many aspects and angles to Daniel Duane’s thesis that would have filled the space without resorting to a four-year-old meal at
  11. Having recently gotten out of the French real estate market, I can say you have to be nuts to buy anything over there.
  12. Blueberry pancakes at the Hearth in Lenox.
  13. MT, Sister Zadie is a Horace Silver thing. You should be looking at the scene in "Hackensack".
  14. Sous-vided? Well,You Needn't.
  15. He kicked me out of eMullet for quoting my grandma's use of "Chinaman". He and I are at the opposite ends of the food spectrum. Snot-nose is seemingly what he is. Not to mention square.
  16. Oh yes, what about Narragansett? They used to have a big sign in center field in Fenway Park. (Hi neighbor, have a "Gansett")
  17. Daniel, the guy who lives down next door to me makes Single Cut. It's very nice. I had it in Purdy's the Farm & the Fish in Purdys NY. Do you ever have it?
  18. How about if you sort out modern short-cut techniques from those that truly advance the craft? Are tweezers and squeeze-bottles considered part of modernist techniques? I'm serious because I and lots of other people love to eat and hate to cook.
  19. You can go to YouTube and see several pianists you never heard of perform yeoman-like renditions of Maurice Ravel's "Gaspard de la Nuit", the third movement ("Scarbo") of which is considered by many to be one of the most technically-challenging or difficult solo-piano compositions ever written. However, there are good reasons, which you can tell, even if you are a layman, that people like Martha Argerich or Robert Casadesus give it a life that those others can't. So maybe Kinch and others have wide-ranging technical prowess, but it doesn't mean anything until you go there and eat and take meas
  20. What are the odds of it ever seeing the light of day?
  21. You should also go to the Paley Center for Media and watch 10 of the 12 episodes they have of Gault & Millau's "Dining in France" (circa 1985) that was on PBS. When I do it, I'll let you know how it looks these days.
  22. Wilfrid beat me to the punch by a few minutes. I wasn't, dear Evelyn, talking specifically about Manresa in my words about all-vegetable menus. I also told the Can Roca story because someone referred to Kinch and "edible dirt". Voyager was sharp enough to tell us what apparently it really is. I can tell you that the all-vegetable menu my wife ordered at Ducasse in Monaco was sensational. It's when much-lesser mortals try it that it is abusive.
  23. I consider all-vegetable menus to be cheap-ingredients menus. It doesn't necessarily mean they can't taste good or even delicious in the hands of gifted chefs. However, there is a trend over the last several years of elevating lesser-cost products to some artificially-precious standard. It's happening now with poultry; it has already happened with farmed caviar, fish (farmed and junk), eggs.etc. Nobody wants to hear that chefs and restaurant owners have been steadily and increasingly squeezing their customers, and not exclusively through produce.. Believe me, I have lived through, and seen, al
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