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Everything posted by oakapple

  1. Yes: you earned a badge of honor to have done so. You weren't really serious if you had not.
  2. Another point about EMP: unlike JG, it didn't open as a four-star restaurant out of the gate. It opened as a two-star, and very gradually added stuff until it became practically unrecognizable from where it started. I'm pretty sure that if MF had existed when EMP opened, the reaction then would have been a collective "meh!"
  3. I thought I answered it -- not that I have the franchise on truth, but I am pretty sure the following is true. JG would attract a lot of fairly similar complaints, if it opened brand new today in its current form. EMP, in its current form, has attracted plenty of complaints, i.e., waiters who perform magic tricks, catering to the S. Pellegrino crowd,, etc.
  4. I'm with Suzanne: they should know that a 10:15 post-concert reservation has a pretty good chance of being 15 minutes late. Concerts don't always end at the exact time. The guests have to get out of the hall, and across the plaza, which can easily take another 10 minutes.
  5. I'm also still miffed that I got charged 25% more than you for roughly the same thing. Not that you should be happy about this, but it's not uncommon for prices to move around during the opening period. I doubt it's anything like: "This guy looks like a chump. Let's charge him more, see if he notices."
  6. Are they still serving dinner at 10:30? Unlike the Met, the Philharmonic is generally out by 9:30, so Lincoln would still be open then, as well.
  7. My hypothesis is that if JG opened today, there would be complaints. At some point, you've been around long enough, and people accept that "you are what you are". As I noted above, Del Posto was greeted with very similar complaints when it opened. If it had been a stand-alone restaurant, not part of a large empire, I am not sure it would have survived long enough to reach the groove it now has. A lot of people find EMP very pretentious now, albeit for not the same reasons. Instead of "Monsieur", the waiters do magic tricks. Of course, it's on the S. Pellegrino list now, and could run f
  8. When Del Posto opened, the general consensus was that "no one wants to dine that way anymore, and certainly not at an Italian restaurant". Frank Bruni was more favorable than most, but he noted the dissonance, and that was nine years ago, when the twilight of F3 fare was less apparent than it seems now: I don't usually cite Adam Platt with approval, but I do now, if only because his judgment was something more like the consensus at the time: A lot had to change, before Sifton finally gave it four stars.
  9. Indeed, I doubt that those who object to "Monsieur" and the $26 cocktail would be in rapture if it were "Sir" and $18. An awful lot more would need to change, such that — whatever its merits or otherwise — it wouldn't be Chevalier, but something else entirely.
  10. Pete Wells: two stars.
  11. As neither of us is sanguine about Chevalier's long-term chances, I guess I agree with you. But I am not sure what the template is. A lot of these luxury midtown hotels have upscale, fancy, white tablecloth restaurants that survive for years, despite no coverage whatsoever in the food press, and the lack of any mention on Mouthfuls: a place like The Carlyle, for instance. Last year, the Post's Steve Cuozzo wrote a rave review for Clement, in the Peninsula Hotel. It has garnered no mentions since then, as far as I recall. Its predecessor, Fives, was around for a long, long time (at
  12. There is no point in requiring a service that is not supported by the economics. I don't think any of Lincoln Center's other restaurants are open for late dining, either, are they? The logical place where that reasoning ought to govern, if it does anywhere, is the Metropolitan Opera House's own restaurant, the Grand Tier—and yet it doesn't. (I realize that Lincoln is a great restaurant, and the Grand Tier is not, but the quality of the two establishments is not what has determined their operating hours.)
  13. http://londonist.com/2014/10/ramen-reviews-ippudo-and-kanada-ya.php That's happened to me a couple of times in Tokyo but it's the exception, not the rule. I assume it's limited to certain types of restaurants. The thing is, whether they do it or not has very little to do with my enjoyment of the restaurant.
  14. However, the question was, would Chevalier be more likely to succeed with Jean Georges' service, rather than what it now has. I don't think so. If it had Batard's service, we're having a very different conversation. But they wouldn't have hired Charles Masson for that. As you've noted, Batard is a downtown restaurant. When David Chang tried to open a downtown restaurant in midtown, at Ma Peche, the number of missteps was practically epic. The place is on something like its 5th concept, and it's not a rip-roaring hit: it's bookable (now on OpenTable—another unwanted concession) pretty much
  15. But he didn't install Daniel's service.
  16. IMO, the population that would be uncomfortable at Chevalier, but perfectly at-home at JG, is not economically significant. My forecast for Chevalier's survival would not be different if they hired the service manager away from JG and implemented JG's service model down to the last detail. They aren't different enough for that to matter.
  17. Well, I also think Chevalier is going to fail, so we agree on that. While I know that you personally are not calling for the abolition of JG and LeB, there is a very strong undercurrent (among many who write about these matters) that their trappings are unnecessary. A young JGV or Eric Ripert in New York would probably not be looking to operate that sort of place. There are two or three things at the margins that Chevalier does, and they do not; but to the average observer, they are a lot more similar to Chevalier than different.
  18. The truth of the matter is: that although I don't mind those trappings at all, I would far prefer it if that food were available without them. That fact is: it's not, which was the premise of Sneakeater's post twenty pages ago, or so. Sneakeater's likely choice is that he'll frequent the likes of Rebelle, which is not quite as good, but is good enough, and is far more comfortable — as he defines it. I've been saying the same for years. Although nothing in principle prevents restaurants from serving this food with most of the trappings stripped away, in practice it generally doesn't occ
  19. If Jean Georges opened today in New York, it would likely fail. Like the other old-guard four-stars, it prospers today, only because of accumulated goodwill, built up at a time when it was considered mandatory for food of this sort to be served in these surroundings. My only visit to Le Chronique was eight years ago, too long ago for me to say whether it's operating on Chevalier's level; but anyhow, Le Chronique is not a New York restaurant. I wouldn't expect the rules for what works/fails in New York to be applicable elsewhere.
  20. I am utterly indifferent. Doesn't make it better. Doesn't make it worse. well, that's nice for you. but i don't know why it is hard to accept that a large number of people who do enjoy eating that food would enjoy the larger experience of eating at a restaurant that serves that food far more if it didn't also come with all sorts of other trappings they don't enjoy at all. I think it is perfectly acceptable for Wilfrid and I to point out the irrationality of some(**) of these objections. It is, of course, human privilege to behave irrationally, for irrationality to persist (perhaps ev
  21. I am not so sure that is true. The restaurants you're thinking of, generally aren't serving THIS food. They are serving something else — very good or even better for what it is, but not directly comparable — that is more suited to their aesthetic.
  22. It really is deplorable to be wishing for the decay of something other people enjoy, but that is doing you no harm.
  23. We were there the other night. That is exactly what it is.
  24. I am utterly indifferent. Doesn't make it better. Doesn't make it worse.
  25. oakapple


    Do we believe Michael White is serving authentic Italian secondi, or his own attempt at gussied-up versions of them, that don't quite impress as much as he'd like to think?
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