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oakapple

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Everything posted by oakapple

  1. Bouley has had FAR more importance than Carbone; but its influence is largely in the past. What there was to learn from it, has been learnt (although there is always a new generation yet to be taught). Maybe there are chefs in Carbone's dining room trying to figure out how they can build on its ideas. Until they do, it's mere speculation. Up to this point, it's an entertaining idea that nevertheless leads nowhere. At this early date, one can refer only to potential. If Chevalier closed tomorrow, it would have zero importance, because it wouldn't have been around long enough for an
  2. By the way, although the upstairs lounge and the restaurant bar charge the same prices for their cocktails, they attract completely different crowds.
  3. Life's too short for me to be offended by that.
  4. The cocktails are the giffen good, man, the cocktails. People actually have to be able to afford the food. Although the cocktails are slightly over-priced for the neighborhood, should you choose to begin the meal that way, it is hardly a requirement of dining there that you begin with one.
  5. I'd be curious to know how you think a restaurant can be important without being good, unless you're suggesting that Olive Garden was important by creating a mass market for mediocre pasta.
  6. Please check my recollection: but the entire cocktail program (such as it is) does not consist of Grey Goose V&T's with the T out of a soda gun. They have "the usual" premium ingredients at that bar, and the bartenders do a competent job with them. They are doing nothing remarkable, but they're not mixing airport cocktails either. I also agree with Wilfrid that if the cocktails were $18 (a bit more in line for that sort of restaurant in Midtown), those inclined to dislike the place would find something else to complain about.
  7. oakapple

    Aquavit

    Still no joy for Juni, but Aquavit is restored to three stars, where it probably should've been all along.
  8. Even that seems to me grossly over-stated. Some of us remember the days before the phrase "cocktail program" was even invented. I like a great cocktail as much as the next guy—actually, probably more—but it doesn't have the definitional attributes that some people attribute to it. It's a demerit, but most restaurants have demerits. They just put them in other places, and if they're really clever about it (e.g., "small plates", "uncomfortable bar stools", "no coffee program", "no coat check", "no reservations"), they give you a Beard award and call you a genius.
  9. Sure, but this is in the context of a restaurant where everyone (who's tried it) agrees the food is terrific — close to the best in the city below four stars. In relation to what you pay for that food, the difference between $23 and the "correct" price for those cocktails is not highly significant. If you are at all rational about it, there would need to be a lot more wrong, before the extra $8–10 would be the primary reason not to go. If the place were a purported cocktail bar, this would of course be unacceptable. But at this restaurant, you're probably going to have no more than one
  10. You ARE the sort of diner Chevalier wants to pull. Whether they're succeeding or not is a whole other question; but they're not so dumb as to think they can survive forever on Charles Masson's rolodex, given the average age of his clientelle. One night that I was there, the publicist was wining and dining someone from Eater. One look at that publicist would've persuaded you that she wasn't hired to pull in more of the AARP crowd.
  11. Yes, they're a bad signifier—assuming you know nothing else. But we know more than that. I wouldn't boycott the Momofuku restaurants for their lack of a coffee service, a coat check, or a comfortable place to sit, even though it's something I think restaurants of that quality ought to have. I might argue that omitting all those things, while charging not-cheap prices, is the opposite problem as including all those things in a much more expensive neighborhood, and charging $23 for a cocktail.
  12. If the new Robuchon is priced anything like the old Robuchon, this will be a really tough test of that neighborhood as a home for high-end destination dining.
  13. I liked Chez Jef, the one time I went there. But a mediocre place can seem decent, if you luck into its better dishes, on one of its better nights. The reverse is also true.
  14. I'm certainly not going to tell you that their $23 cocktails are a bargain. But even without cocktails, there's a certain sum you're committed to spend, the instant you walk in the door. In relation to that sum, the extra, say, $8 you're paying above the midtown average for a cocktail is not really very significant. Even if we round it to $10, it's not a figure that ought to influence one's decision to dine there, assuming you think the rest of it is worthwhile.
  15. Five years ago, he would've left The Modern and opened a restaurant like The Dutch.
  16. I think the people you're referring to are more-or-less imaginary.
  17. oakapple

    Juni

    Hergatt is doubling down on what Pete Wells doesn't like about his restaurant.
  18. That's a rather unfair characterization of what people use reviews for. People with limited time and/or limited money generally do rely on others for recommendations, and I see nothing wrong with that. I find Mouthfuls more reliable than the paid media, but I've spent years reading Mouthfuls (and its predecessor, eG), to develop a sense of whose posts I ought to trust, for which kinds of information. I don't regard it as a character flaw if someone else, who does not care to spend all that time on a message board, looks to the paid media for suggestions.
  19. Nakazawa is quite a bit better than Neta, in my book. Still not four stars, but noticeably better. Value is such a personal thing, I can't say whether it'd be worth it to you.
  20. oakapple

    Hearth

    Imagine if La Côte Basque has been called The Basque Coast. Who would've gone there?
  21. I am well aware of their following. My hypothesis is that when you lose the space, you lose other things that might not be apparent until it is too late. Just ask Charles Masson (and he is not the only example; just the most recent).
  22. The Landmarks Commission has rejected practically all of Aby Rosen's proposed changes to the interior of the Four Seasons. He will be allowed to replace the carpet, and that's it. Unfortunately, the current operators are not landmarked, and his intentions are crystal clear: they're done: “Their lease is up in July, so they’re out,” Mr. Rosen said. “If something was designed in 1958 and it’s not as functional in 2015, you ask for a change,” he continued. “I’m going to restore the Four Seasons back to its glory. I love the guys but their time has passed, and sometimes something great nee
  23. I remember when the Lonesome Dove was hot. For all of 10 minutes.
  24. The early crowds seldom last. The question is whether this place has some as-yet-undiscovered charm that will keep it popular, after the bloom is off the rose. I'm guessing it doesn't. It's not that they'll stop coming because Pete Wells told 'em to. They'll stop coming because the Nxt Great Thing will attract their attention, and there is nothing about this place that would make them keep coming back.
  25. oakapple

    Hearth

    I don't understand Kenji-Alt's complaint. Canora never said it was a new idea. He never claimed that his bone broth was anything other than what it is. I'm not going to travel all the way down to the East Village for a cup of \gravy, but if I were in the neighborhood on a cool or cold day, I'd be happy to try some. If we drink hot coffee or hot tea, then why not this?
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