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oakapple

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Everything posted by oakapple

  1. Ditto, but it's not as if I know him well enough to compare his miserable face to his everyday face.
  2. I might suggest that Cinco de Mayo isn't the best day to assess a Mexican restaurant's performance. In the Platonic world it shouldn't matter: every day should be equally good. But we know that is not the case.
  3. We visited several months ago; liked it, as well.
  4. If Parm can get two stars, anything can.
  5. They can call the split "totally amicable" all they want. When the project's marquee name drops before the reviews are in, it doesn't bode well. I agree that Gallante's name now needs to be up-front: either he's the story, or there is no story.
  6. Ground floor. Right outside the dining room. I've been to that downstairs bar twice, and both times got a seat with no trouble at all. I went upstairs only once. The bar was such a madhouse that a guy in a suit wouldn't even let me in the door. I could've sat in the lounge, but I was by myself and didn't really feel like doing that.
  7. Here's the Pig at Chevalier. I haven't had enough of the menu yet to venture an firm opinion, but the Pig's enthusiasm is certainly consistent with what I've tried. As I said upthread, Gallante doesn't need Masson to tell him what to cook. The question is whether there are enough customers to support the program, now that Masson isn't there to draw them in. Does it thrive, or does it become another Adour.
  8. Steve Cuozzo says: "Also in no-surprise category: Masson out of Chevalier after 1 month. Mystery is how it lasted so long."
  9. That's a bit like saying that since it's possible to see snow in Orlando, who's to say that there's more risk of snow in Iowa? These lines from that NYT piece seem haunting:
  10. Until I read about it this morning, I hadn't realized he'd relocated to Portland.
  11. I've been to the bar twice now, the second being just the other day. He was there, air-kissing and schmoozing everyone he knew—which was a lot of people. I don't think his presence makes any difference to Shea Gallante's food, but it's obvious that many of the guests were there for him.
  12. oakapple

    Burgers in NY

    You could fry up a leather shoe, put it on a bun, and if it's branded a Pat LaFrieda signature burger, people will pay. That guy's hand must be pretty sore by now, from all the "signature" items he has endorsed.
  13. I find Stein a better writer than most of those writing in the Eater ecosystem, and as you have noticed, he occasionally makes a valid point, and does so entertainingly. There is no excuse for the Peter Gelb error, though.
  14. oakapple

    Botequim

    This place is a perfect example of the sort of restaurant where two-star performance — assuming that was accurate at one time — probably wouldn't be sustained after the review period. (I thought it was a borderline one/two-star place when new.) For many years, the chef and his wife had just two places, Tocqueville and 15 East, and they were pretty good. Now they have five. Botequim is precisely the kind of place where the chef sets it up, installs an underling, and stops paying close attention.
  15. oakapple

    Huertas

    First-world problems.
  16. At least they were smart enough not to hire Shaun Hergatt as their chef; in that case, they'd still be unreviewed.
  17. And now we'l find out if this guy can make 40 dishes for 300 people at a time.
  18. Let me get this straight: the subject of this thread is now, à la Nixon, "What did Wilfrid know, and when did he know it?"
  19. You can now. Whenever a restaurant hires Ryan Skeen, I always say that they ought to save money, by having their publicist write simultaneously the release announcing his arrival and his departure. Put the departure release in a folder close by, because you know you're going to need it soon. This case strikes me in a similar way.
  20. And yes, come to think of it, that north-of-Soho restaurant likewise claimed to be in "heart of Soho".
  21. About a year ago, I went to a restaurant on the north side of Houston, which nevertheless claimed proudly to be in Soho.
  22. Like many Manhattan neighborhoods, the definition of "Meatpacking District" has stretched to adjacent blocks, as shops and restaurants seek to associate themselves with a location seen as more desirable by their preferred demographic. This phenomenon is by no means limited to the Meatpacking District. Many restaurants will claim to be in Tribeca, when in fact they are below what was originally understood to be that neighborhood's southern boundary.
  23. oakapple

    Beautique

    Just got an email: they are announcing him as their new "Culinary Director".
  24. Even taken at its most generous interpretation, what Eater means is, "first...by a chef that Eater covers," not literally an all-time city-wide first. It would probably be extremely difficult to come up with an actual cuisine or culinary style (that is legal to serve) that exists literally nowhere in the five boroughs.
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