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oakapple

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Everything posted by oakapple

  1. oakapple

    Momofuku Ko

    I can't speak to Chang's non-NYC restaurants, but his continuing struggles at Ma Peche are hardly the model anyone would seek to emulate, including (I suspect) Chang himself. The place is on something like its fourth or fifth concept. So yeah, an illiterate review from Platt, not his first.
  2. oakapple

    Momofuku Ko

    Adam Platt reviews the new Momofuku Ko. He finds still finds the food worthy of four stars, but awards only three, deducting a star for "the non-Momofuku prices and the impersonal vibe." Seven years ago, Platt awarded four stars after only one visit: he was so eager that his review was posted several days early (i.e., not on a Monday, NYM's usual publication day).
  3. Oh, Bill Addison. Part of the schtick is to foster the illusion that you're oh-so-privileged to be granted the opportunity to dine at the place they are writing about.
  4. This is something that he ought to be able to do very well. I agree that "one table a night" is just a trial balloon. That is no one's permanent model.
  5. All I said was: a lot harder than a steakhouse. This is not open to rational dispute.
  6. Another way of thinking of this, is: Try to imagine a "Le Bernardin" of beef that would share similar accliam. Pretty hard to conceive of. Preparing steaks isn't fool proof, but it requires a lower degree of skill. Ask the Limani staff to prepare the Del Frisco menu for a night (giving them Del Frisco's kitchen and ingredients), and it would be at least okay. The opposite would probably be a disaster.
  7. If that were true, then restaurants' skill at preparing fish would not vary as much as it in fact does.
  8. oakapple

    Roberta's

    Unless you already have a reason to be out in the Wilds of Bushwick (as Sneakeater did the other day, but most of us don't on a regular basis), it's an awfully long way to travel for "mediocre plus".
  9. You're saying that preparing 20 different, seasonally rotating, species of whole fish requires the identical ability level as the never-ever-changing cuts of steak at a steakhouse?
  10. We spent about 18 pages debating whether Sifton was subtracting points for imported Italian charcuterie, or just pointing out that the "downtown diners" the Mays were trying to court, don't really care about that stuff. But the NYT definitely took points away from Shaun Hergatt for importing a lot of his ingredients.
  11. I doubt that Nello was ever very good. Milos has gotten some rave reviews, over the years. The thing is — and this gets back to my comment a couple of posts ago — sourcing and preparing such a wide variety of whole fish requires actual ability. Milos could very well have been a 2/3* restaurant when it had the right chef. That guy leaves, and suddenly it's just mediocre. Contrast that to the typical steakhouse, which, once the formula has been programmed, is going to be the same thing every day, practically no matter who shows up to cook.
  12. The thing is, when Plotnicki gives you career advice, it sticks in the back of your mind. It haunts you. Sooner or later, you have to comply.
  13. Thalassa didn't have a pool, but otherwise it was quite similar. When it opened, the heart of the menu was whole fish by the pound, just like these two places. They dropped that concept during the Great Recession, and now just have a standard carte. It's still not bargain dining, but the bill isn't as punishing as Milos or Limani, and with prices printed on the menu, you won't be surprised at the end.
  14. That's too simplistic. At a steakhouse, once you've sourced aged prime beef and installed the right kitchen equipment, the cooking is almost trivial: it would be hard to screw it up. In contrast, sourcing all of those different fish species from around the world, and knowing how to prepare all of them, requires actual ability. There's also a lot more variation to the menus at these places, with different fish available depending on the time of year.
  15. Which is why I think it never makes sense to mention specific bottles in a restaurant review. A great dish can stay on the menu more-or-less indefinitely. A great bottle cannot.
  16. I don't dispute the overall insincerity of the idea, but I wouldn't be so quick to pronounce last rites on the French trend. Last time there was such a trend, didn't it last for decades? Isn't the re-boot of L'Atelier Robuchon supposed to be part of it too?
  17. He really has embraced the, ummmm, Eater aesthetic, for lack of a better phrase.
  18. I would rather have had Nerai as the other half of the double-review, but them's the breaks.
  19. I can't find your review. Link? Still in draft mode; not posted yet.
  20. I've been to Limani a couple of times. The prices are high, but I would not call them ruinous, given the premise. The NYJournal-Approved Rating is two stars.
  21. I agree entirely, as you know. But I don't see the point in raising the same complaint every week, practically no matter what he reviews. Wells has wasted some Wednesdays, but I don't think this is one of them.
  22. Do you have a library of pre-composed tweets, ready to send every time Pete reviews anything not on the "gotta review" list?
  23. oakapple

    SD26

    Interesting news that Marisa has retained ownership of the 'San Domenico' name and could conceivably open a sequel. I felt firmly at the time that SD26 was poorly conceived: good people, bad idea. In the right space, and with the right chef, something more akin to the original concept might still be viable.
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