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oakapple

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Everything posted by oakapple

  1. That service came in for a lot of criticism when the place opened. It was not immediately adored.
  2. Nevertheless, the first line of this Eater.com story story about Le Turtle, is: The chef used to work at Blanca. [italics theirs]. Them's code words for "the food here is significant" (even if it did not turn out that way).
  3. The Eater headline is simply the "spin" that that website decided to put on the place, before it had served its first meal. As opposed to the marvellous food photos on the website for Le Turtle.
  4. Nello didn't hire Shea Gallante.
  5. Shea Gallante had three NYT stars and a Michelin star at Cru, and it's well known that Frank Bruni seriously considered awarding the fourth star, before the wheels fell off the bus during the financial crisis. He is an unlikely choice to run the kitchen, if the target audience is rich people who don't really know good from bad, as long as it's served with $25 vodka cocktails. Anyhow, it is a myth of the modern food media, that middle-class folk who post on Internet boards know food culture, but wealthy folks with lots of disposable income, do not. Even assuming for argument's sake that thi
  6. I say this as a failed Chevalier supporter...but it's an accumulation of things that, taken together, are signifiers to those who care about such things. To Adrian, the fact that the hotel housing it is named for Baccarat, is a turn-off before you even walk in the door. This is another of those things that I don't care about at all, but which bother him immensely.
  7. I have been to Roberta's, so I don't know why you are asking that.
  8. You see, I know I don't. But that's because it's ancient. Chevalier seems like an attempt to recreate something that has no reason for being at present (and, to be clear, GK and The Modern don't). People give '21' a pass for the same reason they give La Grenouille a pass: it faithfully preserves the era it came from. It's not for me to say which restaurants have any reason for being. But any new restaurant needs to make its own case, which Chevalier hasn't yet done.
  9. GK has a contemporary appearance not entirely conveyed by the photos posted upthread. Put Kreuther (the chef) into Chevalier's dining room, cooking the same food he is now, and he would've had the same challenges that Gallante has had. The Modern (dining room) does indeed have an antiseptic, corporate feel to it, if viewed in isolation. But the impression on the user is really the "average" of two very different spaces, because you have to pass through the Bar Room to get there. GK also has a lively bar room that you see when you first walk in, although you don't walk through it, as you do
  10. Of course, the fact that I personally liked it, doesn't change the fact that I thought it had very little chance of success in today's market, and I would not invest my own money in such a place.
  11. Some people don't find Ssäm Bar's backless stools particularly inviting, either. Yet, somehow, they exist. Some people would rather not be called monsieur/madame outside of countries where that language is spoken; others, like me, don't even notice it.
  12. Yes, it is not an Adrian restaurant; and he believes that if it's not his kind of restaurant, then it's no one's kind of restaurant.
  13. oakapple

    Burgers in NY

    Yet another of those NYM "Best of" posts, this time for burgers. Some reasonable choices, but #1? Ugh!!
  14. That's because, at some level, while Chevalier has good food, it's not a good restaurant. Incorrect.
  15. One look at Chevalier, and I could have told you the critics were not going to love it; and that was before I had taken a bite. One look at Mimi, and I could have told you that this was a place the critics "would love to love," if it were any good. (Of course, the chef still had to execute.) It is worth noting that there is a huge gulf in between. Not everything is a critic darling or a failure. Also, Mimi is still quite new. Let's see if it's still a darling in five years.
  16. No, it was obviously not at the Celebrites/Lespinasse level, and didn't remotely purport to be. But I am not about to say that unless he is doing that, he is necessarily "unserious".
  17. The only problem with that argument, is that Pete Wells generally gives two stars to places he enjoys that way.
  18. I did look up Seasonal: two stars. And the Grunauer food doesn't read as sophisticated as Seasonal, so that seems right. FWIW, The Times totally ignored Seäsonal until Eric Asimov reviewed it in the inter-critic interregnum.
  19. It depends what you mean by "serious". He cooked a damned good confit de canard at Secession. I cannot blame him that the place was already on life support—for reasons he had nothing to do with—when David Bouley brought him in to attempt a rescue. I know you had a terrible experience at La Mangeoire, but I had good meals there twice. Not life-altering by any means, but not unserious either. "Relevance" is an echo chamber in which certain anointed Mandarins decide what they think is today's fashion. Having said that, I wouldn't bet on this place lasting more than a year or two.
  20. oakapple

    Shuko

    On Platt's list, it's number four.
  21. The SLA has withdrawn the proposal discussed above, which would've sharply curtailed restaurants' ability to stock their wine lists from private collections. As noted in the Eater story, the SLA declined to say exactly why it was withdrawn. One wants to thing it was for the right reason—the idea simply sucked—and not, as some fear, that they'll be back again with yet another, slightly altered, version of the same dumb idea.
  22. oakapple

    La Sirena

    They are all carrying Frank Bruni's water bucket.
  23. We were in Panama a few months ago and brought back a small bag of Geisha, which cost us $25. It is an incredibly smooth and mild coffee that almost reminds you of tea. Although I liked it, I prefer my coffee on the mild side. I'm not sure I see Geisha becoming popular here, where most people prefer a coffee taste veering towards motor oil.
  24. The Absolute Best Place to Drink Wine in New York. Although arguable, like any such list, this one is not utterly idiotic, as many of the others have been; and in fact, has a number of very reasonable suggestions.
  25. Comments like that are probably going to follow him around for the rest of his career; certainly, for many years to come.
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