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Everything posted by oakapple

  1. oakapple


    Is he based here anymore? His only operating restaurant seems to be in Hong Kong. He might be in the "no longer trying" category.
  2. oakapple


    WD~50 would likely still be humming along, if it hadn't lost its lease. You'd have to think there is still a market somewhere for the full Wylie, if he plays his cards right. Liebrandt and Hergatt clearly have something yet to prove, i.e., that they can create a restaurant that showcases their best work and that is an enduring success. The full list would perhaps include people like David Waltuck and Laurent Tourondel, who stopped trying.
  3. oakapple

    Burgers in NY

    Interestingly, a tweep named Larry Baldwin asked Wells why this wasn't a $25 and Under review. Wells replied that "The $25 and Under column was killed more than three years ago." This is literally true, but Hungry City, which replaced it, fills a broadly similar niche. "Hungry City" is just an inflation-invariant name for the same idea. Restaurants like August, The Spotted Pig, and Jewel Bako were all originally $25&U restaurants, and no one thinks of them as "cheap eats". But there was always an overlap between the two columns. Frank Bruni was supposedly disappointed that Peter Me
  4. Pete Wells's successor posts his audition.
  5. oakapple


    An enjoyable documentary on The Last Days of WD~50.
  6. In which case Aquavit and Del Posto are French restaurants.
  7. I refer you to the restaurant's website: "Our multi-course tasting menu focuses on the extraordinary agricultural bounty of New York and on the centuries-old culinary traditions that have taken root here." That's not much different from the statement on Ssäm Bar's website: "the philosophy of the food at momofuku ssäm bar is to create an ever-changing menu sourcing and supporting local farms, pulling inspiration from the flavors, cooking techniques and ingredients found worldwide whilst staying true to its new york roots." Both restaurants are trying desperately not to be French. That t
  8. To at least one critic, Chevalier and Gabrierl Kreuther are more-or-less the same thing: Ryan Sutton on Twitter: Now, let's stipulate that Sutton probably hasn't eaten at GK, and we don't know for sure if he's eaten at Chevalier. So, he might be commenting on what he thinks they are, not on what they actually are. But to paraphrase Adrian, he's "reading the signals" they send out, and this is his early take. To him, they are two of a kind.
  9. Eleven Madison Park is the proof that you're mistaken. They never bonsoir'd or monsieur'd you there. Ever. They never had Charles Masson's butter ritual there. Ever. But suppressing those old-fashioned anachronisms wasn't enough. They had to make the restaurant American. If it were the French restaurant you're claiming it is, they'd scare a lot of people away.
  10. oakapple


    Overwhelmingly, the rule in free societies is that owners can charge whatever the heck they want for the product they are trying to sell, subject only to their ability to find a willing buyer. There are numerous exceptions. The right of a beloved restaurant to remain in business, if the landlord feels he can make more from some other business, is not one of those exceptions.
  11. Thomas Keller himself is American. He was trained in French technique, as was almost every Western chef you can name. His menus nod towards many different cultures, one of them being French, but not exclusively or even primarily so. I would doubt that most of Per Se's guests think of themselves as going to a "French restaurant" when they go there. I would also doubt that if any French person dined there, they'd be likely to say: "Ah, feels just like home!"
  12. True, but you wouldn't call Momofuku Ko a "French restaurant," would you? I did not say that, did I? No, but I am struggling to grasp the principle you are trying to assert. You seem to be saying that if the chef uses French technique, then it's a French restaurant. David Chang uses French technique.
  13. you have a very hidebound idea of French food. All I believe him to be saying, is that a restaurant isn't French, just because its chef uses some techniques that the French originated. Otherwise, you are left to argue that Del Posto is a French restaurant, which is just ridiculous.
  14. True, but you wouldn't call Momofuku Ko a "French restaurant," would you, even though David Chang once worked at Café Boulud and continues to use the techniques he learned there? I agree that French technique has informed the cuisine of all the Western nations. It doesn't make those places French restaurants.
  15. Whatever it may have been in the past, French dining is really the underdog now in American culture. It seems to be enjoying a comeback in the last couple of years at lower levels, but there's still a long way to go. To the extent that NYT stars mean anything, no French restaurant has ascended to four stars since Alain Ducasse at the Essex House received the honor from William Grimes in 2001— and in the intervening years, there haven't been very many three-stars, either. It really is a cuisine that has struggled, and mostly failed, to maintain its relevance.
  16. oakapple


    That report has a bit of an EVGrieve-ish slant to it, referring to landlords as "obscene" and "under-handed". Emotionally, I'm on Dave's side. Realistically, the land is the landlord's property, and he can charge for its use whatever he thinks he can get.
  17. You mean, the answer where he basically said: "French is different" ?
  18. No. But you should recognize that it's not helping anyone take the place seriously (even if it's a serious restaurant). I don't dispute that some people think this makes a restaurant less "serious", even though the reasons for that view are fairly murky and not thought out with any coherence. Nevertheless, my question is not about seriousness. My question is whether any reasonable person(*) ought to be actually offended by that, as some apparently are if the greeting is Bonsoir, rather than Buona sera. (*) I confine my question to reasonable people, because the set of things that
  19. At an Italian restaurant last night, I was greeted with Buona sera. The waiter said prego multiple times and grazie at the end. I am pretty sure they sprinkled in a madame in error, when serving my wife the appetizer. Should I have been offended?
  20. I'm the only person I know who still visits nytimes.com. People don't get their news that way any more. Most of my news hits come via social/aggregators/&c, not via NYT front page. Now you know two, because I visit it regularly. I use the aggregators also, but guess what: nytimes.com gets "aggregated" more than some guy's blog. It actually still DOES matter to be the Times.
  21. And of course, this is totally incorrect. It may be true that most NYT readers no longer buy a physical paper. But if you visit nytimes.com, only a few stories can be at the top of the masthead. It is still coveted real estate. I subscribe to a Times feed on my smartphone, which "pushes" a notification when an important story is published. If that occurred more than a few times a day—or if the stories they picked weren't important enough—I would get annoyed and shut it off. So it still requires an intelligent "selection," as it always did, or it loses all of its value. It's true that m
  22. But the thing is, if he hadn't been in the business of outing people, then: A) He probably woudn't have had any reason to conceal his name; and, B) If he had, it's doubtful anyone would've cared enough to try to unmask him. The vast majority of Mouthfuls posters do not disclose their full real names, and the fact goes unremarked. No one's gonna 'out' Sneakeater, because he likes the food at Chevalier and they don't; and if they did, there would be well-nigh 100% agreement that it was totally out of line.
  23. I believe that my moral obligations toward others are shaped by my own moral views, not by theirs. My moral obligations toward him are not really informed by what his moral beliefs seem to be. You don't get some magical moral waiver to be a jerk to someone just because he's a jerk. But if you're really so convinced that he's a "jerk" to behave this way, then where was your indignation when EVGrieve was outing others? You can selectively define "jerk" any way you want, but we aren't obliged to share it. When the object of your defense is someone who behaved (by your definition) indefensibl
  24. I do believe it is morally justified, because EVGrieve was himself often responsible for "outing" people, usually for the purpose of ridiculing and showering indignation upon them. If he engages in that behavior, and considers it proper (as he evidently did), then what right have we to presume that others cannot do the same?
  25. Then argue that point. . . . Just because something is expected or has happened in other contexts doesn't somehow make it "proper". I am telling you that the norms I deeply value regarding open discourse on the internet are best served by a healthy amount of respect for privacy, especially of your opponents, and especially when they have prominent online platforms. My position is more pragmatic than principled. Whether your way leads to better or worse public discourse, or is in fact irrelevant, is a question to which I have no answer. I do not find it clear-cut, one way or another.
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