Looped through on the way back from a trip to London. Trying to stay awake in a CDG hotel rom to catch an early flight, so a few notes.
I recently sold my Ambroisie book for an absurd profit, and the exchange rate is quite friendly, so I splurged a bit. My first thought was to throw it back to Ambroisie, but based on my extremely scientific review of some recent photos on instagram, things look a bit iffy there at the moment. So for the extremely expensive gamble, i went with Gagnaire instead.* Didn't quite hit the jackpot, but had an extremely good meal--a blackjack at a 6:5 odds table, I'd say.
Had a very good starter of crayfish steamed with linden leaves that came with a side of sweetbreads, and some polenta, and then a doe saddle and its sauce with cepes and pear, which came with a civet of wild boar as a principal side dish, along with some other stuff. The cooking and ingredients in each of the individual plates was uniformly excellent. What I didn't quite get is how the sets of dishes were really supposed to work together, particularly the doe/boar. A lot of meat with two pretty rich and similar sauces. Since I get to eat this stuff like once a year I'm not complaining, but others might find it overkill.
The a la carte prices are hilarious. They are of course extraordinarily high, but there does not seem to be much rhyme or reason as to why one thing is 125 euros while another is 175. Wine prices are pretty reasonable, and given the quantity of food, the dessert menu is delivered and taken away in one swoop with something to the effect of: "you probably don't have room but..." So in the end the damage is about the same as George V/Epicure/Alleno and a decent bit less than l'Ambroisie.
Taillevent. Everything was basically correct. Was hoping that lievre a la royale would be on the menu (had been the past few weeks), but it was not. Instead had the lievre a la cuillere (basically the Senator Couteaux version I think?), which was great but probably too rustic for the environment. Oh well.
*In the not-a-gamble department, Le Cinq remains fantastic. I don't have anything to add to my past comments. Hard to beat that grouse a la royale this time of year.