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Found 4 results

  1. Sneakeater

    Iris

    Iris is a new Greek/Turkish (but mainly Greek) restaurant from John Fraser (who, it turns out, has a Greek background -- who knew?). It's in the MONY Building. I don't think I've ever eaten in the MONY Building before.* Fraser has always struck me as a very sound but basically boring chef. I think it's no coincidence that he made the biggest impact, at least for me, at his first restaurant, Dovetail. Cuz there his food was a surprise. Since then, he's just seemed to me to be playing things out. So maybe a turn to his ancestral food has done him good. This is a fancified, ch
  2. Indian Accent is the new New York branch of one of the new wave of fancy Indian (in this case, pan-Indian) restaurants that Mongo has told us about in New Delhi. These restaurants (or some of them) are notable for diverging from strictly traditional cooking and being positively cheffy. I read some promotional materials for the Delhi original of this place that emphasized, as if it were a matter of note, that the chef makes up the dishes. I put off writing this up for a week because I frankly feel incompetent to evaluate it: I know even less than many other Americans about Indian food. (A
  3. Sneakeater

    Sen Sakana

    I didn't have high hopes for this. It's a Nikkei restaurant, serving the Peruvian-Japanese fusion that's popular in Peru. (Nobu started this way, although over time its fusion became more generalized.) It's run by Minna Newman, who has a long history in New York restaurants (and -- who knew? -- is of Peruvian descent) and a Japanese chef named Taku Nagai. You can find it on the other end of that long block of W. 44th St. that DB Bistro (and the Harvard Club and the Royalton) is on. So let's just say it exceeded my expectations. I went soon after it opened because one of the better mea
  4. Sneakeater

    Empellón

    Empellón is Alex Stupak's new Modern Mexican restaurant. It's in a Midtown skyscraper on the corner of Madison and 53rd. I happened to eat there the night before I had my first meal in a long time at Cosme, Mexico City Chef Enrique Olvera's New York outpost (he's opening a new Manhattan restaurant this week; more on that anon). Eating in these two places successively provided an informative contrast, so I'm writing them up together and posting this in both restaurants' threads. The comparison is very much not to Empellón's benefit. Empellón is the latest Mexican project from Alex St
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