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This harkens back to a somewhat neglected strand of OG NBC: vernacular food with heightened technique and ingredients. Here, the Vernacular Food Concept is: Rochester. I don't know where (or even if) chef/owner Brian Heiss cooked before. He's mainly a wine guy. Indeed, his major presence on this block of Greene Avenue in Clinton Hill is his natural wine shop Radicle next door. Brooklyn Hots doesn't have a license yet; the idea is that you buy a bottle at Radicle and take it in. This makes solo dining a little awkward -- but if ever there was a dish designed to soak up alcohol,