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LittleMäd (on Madison between 29th & 30th) is a new entry in the credentialed-chef-cheffing-up-the-food-of-their-ethnicity genre. It's run by a chef of Korean descent who comes out of the kitchen at Le Coucou. (The restaurant is backed by the reliable Hand Hospitality group.) It's billed as French-inflected Korean -- but it's really Korean-inflected French. An excellent appetizer, Pyeonyuk Torchon, tells the tale. It's a fairly classic head cheese torchon -- but made with/flavored like pyeonyuk, the Korean cold cut made from meat scraps (including head). The technical sta