Jump to content
Wilfrid1

Barcelona recommendations

Recommended Posts

Uh oh.

 

Now I check the web-site, the menu is a shadow of what it was, and I don't recognize the people.

 

How dare things change?!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Don't get the rabbit at hisop, but do ask them for wine recommendations, they have some interesting stuff there that I haven't seen elsewhere.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Paco Meralgo you need a reservation, but they are weird about them. You can be there early on a slow day (ie Tue-Thur) and will get seated almost for sure, or after a short wait. But by all means give it a try with the resv if you end up going there.

 

The closest they managed to get to my name on the reservation was Cochonil. Nombre dificil, I was told. :lol:

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

They should be able to manage Gomez or Garcia. Matronym or patronym, take your pick. :lol:

 

Now, Tapac24 I have on the list. How is Comerc24 these days?

 

Visiting the websites of some of these restaurants is a ...mixed experience.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Maybe this should be in travel.

 

I have just started noting a few things to do in Barcelona between meals.

 

Assuming I know the galleries and museums which were established up to about five years ago and other long-standing attractions - is there anything new I should check out?

 

There seems to have been a lot of activity and building around the seaport and out to Barceloneta, for example.

 

Child-friendly things are especially welcome.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have reservations at Hisop, Cinc Sentits, Paco Merlago and Rias de Galicia. If we get the chance, we can drop by Tapac24 and Quimet at off-peak times. Quite excited now.

 

Pity the most interesting restaurant in Granada closes in August.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I have reservations at Hisop, Cinc Sentits, Paco Merlago and Rias de Galicia. If we get the chance, we can drop by Tapac24 and Quimet at off-peak times. Quite excited now.

 

Pity the most interesting restaurant in Granada closes in August.

 

good choices.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Since I can't just do a search on three letter words, has anyone tried Bar Mut? I pulled that out of a guide book, and it was very enjoyable. Proper write-ups and pictures in due course.

 

Sad to confirm with my own eyes what the web-site had implied: one of my favorite Barcelona restaurants, Ateneu Gastronomic, has changed ownership and is now selling paella in three languages to tourists. Ou sont le horse tartare d'antan, as the poet asked.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Since I can't just do a search on three letter words, has anyone tried Bar Mut? I pulled that out of a guide book, and it was very enjoyable. Proper write-ups and pictures in due course.

 

Sad to confirm with my own eyes what the web-site had implied: one of my favorite Barcelona restaurants, Ateneu Gastronomic, has changed ownership and is now selling paella in three languages to tourists. Ou sont le horse tartare d'antan, as the poet asked.

 

Bar Mut is very good in a Paco Meralgo kind of way. Eat the espardenyas (sea cucumbers) if they have them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, that's the comparison I'd make too. I enjoyed both places very much. Bar Mut has a spectacular list of regional Spanish wines too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Yes, that's the comparison I'd make too. I enjoyed both places very much. Bar Mut has a spectacular list of regional Spanish wines too.

 

The wine is great, yes. My only small moan would be that there is no list and you can't always easily make out what they've got on the shelves

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In addition to the shelf display, they do have a list now.

 

A lovely bottle of Mas d'en Gil Coma Vella 2004, grenache-carignan from the Priorat - so my notes tell me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have finally posted my reviews of Hisop and Cinc Sentits at the Pink Pig.

 

We enjoyed both of them enormously. The service at Cinc Sentits was slightly more relaxed, and the Munchkin made two trips to the kitchen to schmooze with the chef (yes, just her). In terms of ambition and execution, it was hard to separate them - of course, this is on the basis of one visit each.

 

The negative in both cases was an attempt to pair sweet ice cream with fish or seafood. Maybe I am just old-fashioned. Other than that, I thought the experimental aspects in the cuisine were appropriately attuned to good, seasonal produce and local traditions. I have been trying to think of anywhere in New York which compares, and I'm struggling. WD-50 is more adventurous, and despite Wylie's riffs on Lower East Side classics, it isn't - I feel - wedded to an indigenous gastronomic tradition. The fish and ice cream dishes might well have been seen at Tailor, but that's not a compliment.

 

I have also written some reflections on the current state of the city.

 

Anyway, I'd be interested to hear if my experiences were consistent with those of other diners. Next week, I plan to post reviews of three modern tapas bars: Paco Meralgo, Bar Mut and Tapac24.

 

ETA: Maybe I should post direct links to the reviews on the threads devoted to the restaurants...interesting to compare the last reviews by ginger milk, 2004.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Four years ago, I started this thread with a long post about things to do in Barcelona. It requires revision.

 

Gaudi's Pedrera. If you went to see it before they opened up the Casa Milà apartment to the public, go again. Fittings and furnishings beautifully preserved: how a very rich Catalan family (with good taste) lived in the first decade of the twentieth century. You should set aside half a day just to see Gaudi's works. The Casa Battlo is partially open to the public too these days (didn't used to be).

 

Tibidabo. The funfair has been radically overhauled and modernised. And it is incredibly, nose-bleedingly expensive.

 

The big Aquarium down on the water-front is huge and a lot of fun.

 

On C/de Escudellers, near Los Caracoles restaurant (you can't miss it - there are chickens roasting on a spit outside), look out for a big store selling really good ceramics and houseware from various regions of Spain. Once inside, look out for windows in the floor. They reveal a cellar downstairs which is a wine bar - good list by the glass, and plenty of hams and cheeses to sample.

 

That's gone.

 

The Museo Federic Mares, near the Cathedral has also been face-lifted, modernised, and now opens long hours: still essential for the upstairs collection of everyday artifacts from Barcelona's belle epoque.

 

Boqueria Market. You won’t miss this - the main food market on the Ramblas - but in addition to drifting around the stalls, remember that this is a great place for breakfast or a snack. There are a number of tapas bars in the middle of the market, among the stalls.

 

The market is unchanged, but the tapas bars have gone sharply upscale. Very popular. Expect to hang around waiting for stools to open up. Expect excellent seafood, not cheap.

 

I previously said of the Born/St Pere district as:

 

I don't believe it's dangerous, but it's a working class neighborhood...

 

Boy, has it gentrified fast. Still relatively free of tourists, it now has plenty of little boutique restaurants and bars. The streets down around St Maria del Mar are jumping after dark too.

 

Previous warnings about pick-pockets should be upgraded to orange. They are visibly, shamelessly at work everywhere there are tourists. I carried a wallet only when I was going direct to a restaurant in a cab. It still isn't a dangerous city, but don't carry anything valuable in an accessible place. Surprisingly few police on the streets.

 

Bar Pastis is Barcelona's version of the French House. Take C/Santa Monica, a turning off the Ramblas a little down from the Barri Xines. After dark, unless they've been moved on at last, you'll find a cluster of cross-dressing hookers at the entrance to the street. They won't bother you, and you'll be irresistibly reminded of British wrestling greats like Jackie Pallo and Adrian Street in full regalia. You'll see the lighted sign above Bar Pastis on the right. It's a dark, smoky little boite, with perpetual Edith Piaf and Charles Trenet playing, and the obvious drink is absinthe. Open very late.

 

Again, the neighborhood around this bar has been entirely prettified. The bar still stands; it was closed - perhaps for vacation, but I'm worried it might be a permanent closure.

 

Another bar which is a personal favorite is Padam! Padam! It's a tiny place at c/Raurig 9...

 

Gone, as far as I could see.

 

Non-alcoholically speaking, you should start at least one day with hot chocolate and churros. My favorite is a bar in one corner of Placa San Jaume.

 

Now a sporting goods store.

 

My top recommendation, which is missed by most guidebooks, is the closest thing Barcelona has to a St John's. It's the Ateneu Gastronomic (www.ateneu.com).

 

Forget it; changed ownership and is now a tourist dump.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Bar Pastis is Barcelona's version of the French House. Take C/Santa Monica, a turning off the Ramblas a little down from the Barri Xines. After dark, unless they've been moved on at last, you'll find a cluster of cross-dressing hookers at the entrance to the street. They won't bother you, and you'll be irresistibly reminded of British wrestling greats like Jackie Pallo and Adrian Street in full regalia. You'll see the lighted sign above Bar Pastis on the right. It's a dark, smoky little boite, with perpetual Edith Piaf and Charles Trenet playing, and the obvious drink is absinthe. Open very late.

 

Again, the neighborhood around this bar has been entirely prettified. The bar still stands; it was closed - perhaps for vacation, but I'm worried it might be a permanent closure.

 

Pastis is still open, or was a couple of month ago when a friend had a show there. Probably on vacation (I hope).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...