Paris

[cinghiale]

A few dinners in Paris last week:

La Rôtisserie d'Argent [looks like there are problems with the link]

Located across the street from the mothership at the foot of the Pont de la Tournelle. I was given a table with a nice view of the (rear end of the) statue of Sainte Geneviève. Started with quenelles. I didn’t think the bisque really worked – would have preferred sauce Nantua, I guess. But the quenelles themselves were great – very light. Main was a half chicken and mash. Nicely done and tasty.

L’Assiette

Classic bistro, and I was there for the cassoulet (the warm weather notwithstanding), reputed to be among the best in Paris. Because I booked for two but showed up alone, the maître d' gave me what I’m sure is the worst table in the house, but the view into the kitchen made it easier to pass the time. Started with the escargot. They were fine. The cassoulet must certainly be a dish that is intended to share. I was able to work through the “five meats” (I was hoping for more of the nice duck confit, but also had to deal with the somewhat over-soft pork belly. Sausages were quite good), but there was no way I could finish the huge portion of tarbais. They were done perfectly though, and the broth was great. No room for dessert, and instead opted for an (expensive) marc d’Alsace. Chef did not appear to be in the house.

Louis

Small restaurant in the 9^th, seats just 20. Prix fixe with no presented list of dishes. Choices were 7 or 9 courses. I went with 9, plus wine pairings. Standouts were the beet root amuse (it was really good!), the red mullet done Japanese style in a terrific consommé, and the beef wrapped in nori w/shitake hash wrapped in horseradish. Chef came out mid-service and said hello.

Amuse: That beet root thingy, plus a "taco" and Camembert with grapefruit

Oyster with fermented milk, purple shiso and oak smoke

White bean mousse with a chocolate-mushroom disk and cocoa powder

The red mullet, with mullet consommé to pour around it.

Completely over-the-top: Showing you how the foie gras is warmed with the steam of the chicken broth, whisking the contraption away, and then returning with the elements to plate the dish. The brioche done in the style of a Japanese bun was quite good.

The beef dish

Cheese course

Cucumber/green apple sorbet

 Crème brûlée mousse with muscovado sugar

Mignardises, the top one being served out of a cigar box filled with tobacco smoke.

Other dinners included a dumpling joint in the Rue Saint Denis that a friend took me to. It was fine – tasty (and cheap). Neighborhood was pretty awful, though. Then Lilane in the 5^th, which is another friend’s go-to place. Very well-prepared food at decent prices.

 

Edited September 17, 2023 by cinghiale

[hollywood10]

Bedbugs in Paris.  https://www.politico.eu/article/paris-bedbugs-metro-dirt-grime/

[Anthony Bonner]

Somewhat ridiculously I'm in Paris for two days and a series of meetings have cancelled on me.  Now find myself with way more downtime and no reason to catch an earlier flight as the fam has gone to the inlaws for two days given NJ school is out.

 

So anyplace you guys love for solo diners?  I miss the old thread. I miss chambo.

[Anthony Bonner]

I do have to go on a tour of Leroy Merlin's and Castorama's tomorrow afternoon !

[MitchW]

My last recommend from Chambo was Magma. We're going next week. Along with Soces.

Le Gran Bain has a big counter/bar for solo diners and have always had good food there.

 

[Simon]

Do we know when Pacaud is leaving the kitchen at L'Ambroisie?  (Has it already happened?)

[Orik]

Moret started in September and I'd imagine Pacaud will still be there on a regular basis for the holidays and then maybe he'll finally really retire.

[Orik]

p.s. I read somewhere that the announcement of l'Amb Tokyo is imminent. 

[MitchW]

Really good meal at Soces last night.  

[Anthony Bonner]

can I ask a really dumb question? When French people shuck an oyster do they traditionally not cut the adductor muscle? 

[Orik]

yes, very often they only cut the top 

[voyager]

Was told it was so diner would know it really came from that shell and not a jar or...

[MitchW]

Magma = food good, service comical.

[Simon]

On 11/9/2023 at 12:21 PM, Orik said:

Moret started in September and I'd imagine Pacaud will still be there on a regular basis for the holidays and then maybe he'll finally really retire.

Moret is out https://www.lechef.com/au-quotidien/2023-11-10-christophe-moret-quitte-lambroisie/

Edited December 28, 2023 by Simon

[Sneakeater]

This is another thread that will only display (a truncated version of) the initial post on my phone, although I can view the whole thread on my computer.

Did you guys vote out of this one, too?

[Orik]

He's never retiring I guess 🤣

[Simon]

Frechon is leaving Le Bristol: https://www.sortiraparis.com/en/news/in-paris/articles/309576-eric-frechon-leaves-the-bristol

[voyager]

21 hours ago, Simon said:

Frechon is leaving Le Bristol: https://www.sortiraparis.com/en/news/in-paris/articles/309576-eric-frechon-leaves-the-bristol

Having followed Frechon from La Verriere, he's had a good run and deserves independence and time for pursuits closer to his heart.   

[Steve R.]

So, another month stay in Paris is coming up for us early May.  Having done this several times now, our list of places to return to has gotten sizable, our list of places we haven't yet gotten to  but want to is also not small & our list of newly recommended places from reputable sources living there or there very regularly is long.  Anything anyone want to add?

Mitch: glad you liked Soces.  Its pretty high on my listing.

[MitchW]

Soces for sure; our secnd vist was at least as good as our first.

We much liked this little bistro up in the 18th called Le Bistrot du Maquis.

I don't know where you're staying, but we were on Rue Faidherbe in the 11th. The weather being what it was (rain and then, rain) we popped in across the street twice for lunch, and it was just right. I had a Hachis Parmentier that was great, and Sig Eater really enjoyed a choucrote garni one day, onion soup another.  Les Funambules.

 

[Steve R.]

We're staying in the 11th again, but this time further down from where we were last time (off rue du Chemin Vert).  In fact, we're about 2 blocks from Les Funambules, on rue des Boulets off rue de Montrueil, and will drop by as needed.  Thanks.

[Steve R.]

We took a walk down Montreuil to March Aligre this morning and, on the way back, spent considerable time on the Funambules block.  There is a small grouping of shops, all with the same owner, that sell produce/cheese, baked goods & meats (Terroirs d’Avenir) across the street and basically next door to Funambules.  Really good.

[MitchW]

And if you go around the block, there's this place, on rue Paul Bert: La Pâtisserie Cyril Lignac - Paul Bert

Some really great pastry.  And Nomade Café for, well, coffee. And Breizh Café for, you know, those crêpes.

[Steve R.]

That end of the block we know well.  We’ve eaten at Le Chardenoux during previous visits and will be going there for dinner this week with some friends from Boston who will be passing thru.

[MitchW]

It is a good block.