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This thread is an absolute gem. Thank you, RG. Completely and unappologetically inspiring.

 

Thanks. It was gasser!

 

Here are a few more shots:

 

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This would be my holy trinity if there were a beer in the shot as well. I really came to love the different sangritas at different bars. A shot is lovely and the beer is for sipping after the thrill of the tequila and sangrita are gone.

 

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The perfect taco, Pionero style. The mixture included steak, ham, dried beef, onions and cheese. Michoacan, Mexico.

 

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Green chorizo from Pionero in Morelia. Really delicious. I went back into the kitchen to ask what made it green. they told me and of course I didn't understand but they very busy and being so sweet that I just smiled and thanked them before leaving.

 

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Breakfast for bean people. A mollete has a layer of refried beans hiding under a blanket of melted cheese.

 

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Jahuacatas (mentioned upthread) on a red chile and pork sauce. One of the best things I ate on a remarkable trip. Los Mirasoles, Morelia.

 

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Stuffed dried Chile Negro de Querendaro. Inside was tomatillos, onions and cotija cheese. Los Mirasoles, Morelia

 

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Plaza de las Rosas in Morelia. This town has such an elegance and grace you just don't find everywhere.

 

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Back to the parade in Uruapan. Cocuchas! These are the kinds of pots Jaymes drove from Mexico to Napa for me!

 

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More from the parade.

 

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A real Mexican beauty rose!

 

and that's good for tonight!

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This thread is an absolute gem. Thank you, RG. Completely and unappologetically inspiring.

 

Thanks. It was gasser!

 

Here are a few more shots:

 

450222396_f2ddf75a84.jpg

This would be my holy trinity if there were a beer in the shot as well. I really came to love the different sangritas at different bars. A shot is lovely and the beer is for sipping after the thrill of the tequila and sangrita are gone.

 

 

I wondered when we would get to the liquid "good stuff" :blink: . Cheers!

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This thread is an absolute gem. Thank you, RG. Completely and unappologetically inspiring.

 

Thanks. It was gasser!

 

Here are a few more shots:

 

450222396_f2ddf75a84.jpg

This would be my holy trinity if there were a beer in the shot as well. I really came to love the different sangritas at different bars. A shot is lovely and the beer is for sipping after the thrill of the tequila and sangrita are gone.

 

 

I wondered when we would get to the liquid "good stuff" :blink: . Cheers!

 

People laugh but I haven't had hardly a rumble "downstairs" if you know what I mean and I attribute this to plenty of limes and tequila. They seem to keep my system peppy and happy.

(burp)

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This thread is an absolute gem. Thank you, RG. Completely and unappologetically inspiring.

 

450222014_d9ecf0d488.jpg

Green chorizo from Pionero in Morelia. Really delicious. I went back into the kitchen to ask what made it green. they told me and of course I didn't understand but they very busy and being so sweet that I just smiled and thanked them before leaving.

 

 

Two years ago I had the opportunity to watch chorizo verde being made in Toluca (courtesy of your buddy Ricardo). We went into a carneciera named Alianza and into the basement where they produce all their chorizos. The first one we saw being made was chorizo criollo, which was their top of the line blend. It was mixed in a huge stainless steel vat that would normally be used by a bakery. The vat had one large arm with a paddle on the end. Once the machine was turned on the arm mixed the meat using a motion that replicated kneading bread pretty well. Alianza employees a carneciero who supervises all the production of their chorizo. He said they perferred this machine to the usual chorizo machines because it was gentler and didn't break up the meat fibers like the others which produced a better texture and flavor. He kept taking little samples from the vat until he was happy with the texture and feel of the mixture. It was then dumped into a hopper and formed into links using natural casings (imported from the U.S.). The entire process from start to finish took less than 30 minutes and probably produced no more than 100# of product. Alianza was definitely a small batch artisenal process. With the criollo chorizo they ingredient that surprised me were the pine nuts.

 

We then moved on to observe the chorizo verde. The meat - a blend of whole muscle pork and some fat - was pretty much the same as the criollo but there were no pine nuts. To get the green color they added a good amount of parsley, kale/swiss chard or spinach (depending upon season and availability). One of the things that both Ricardo and the chorizo-mesiter stressed was that the neon green chorizo that was sold all over town is the result of liberal use of green food coloring. Green chorizo made from green vegetables actually turns a delightful (not) shade of olive-drab when cooked. Alianza in Toluca is still family owned and operated but they are, self admittedly, a dying breed since chorizo can be made much faster (and cheaper) by machine in large scale factories.

 

I love chorizo so after Alianza we stopped by a place called Hacienda de Parian (on the outskirts of Toluca) for a chorizo meal using the Alianza products. Wow. We had it about 5 or 6 different ways and was it ever good. From straight grilled slices, to crumbled on a salad and in queso fundido to the very odd "Obispo" (kind of a Mexican haggis) the chorizo was meaty and satisfying. Plus, FYI, Parian has a tequila cart that they roll up to the table that is stocked with about 75 different varieties. I had no idea there was green chorizo available in Morelia, thanks for the recommendation.

 

I'm glad you guys had a change to try Los Mirasoles. I think it is the best resto in Morelia at the moment. I had suggested that to Cristina originally, but we got side tracked by the disasterous Emiliano's venture. And we could have walked to Los Mirasoles :blink:

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One of the things that both Ricardo and the chorizo-mesiter stressed was that the neon green chorizo that was sold all over town is the result of liberal use of green food coloring. Green chorizo made from green vegetables actually turns a delightful (not) shade of olive-drab when cooked.

 

Welcome back, sister. We continued our new romance with Morelia after you and Cristina left for Guadalajara. I can see why you love this town so much. Charming is putting it lightly.

 

Do you think from this photo that they were using food coloring? It tasted "green" and this color doesn't seem too lurid but I wonder. It was really delicious but maybe a bit dry, but that was in comparison to the ham and meat mixture.

I love chorizo so after Alianza we stopped by a place called Hacienda de Parian (on the outskirts of Toluca) for a chorizo meal using the Alianza products. Wow.

 

You know, I think this could be the basis for a trip. The gross crap that's sold as chorizo in the US scares even me and I'll eat most anything. But a chorizo crawl throughout Mexico would be a hoot.

 

I'm glad you guys had a change to try Los Mirasoles. I think it is the best resto in Morelia at the moment. I had suggested that to Cristina originally, but we got side tracked by the disasterous Emiliano's venture. And we could have walked to Los Mirasoles :blink:

 

We looked at the Mercedes menu and the atmosphere and passed. It just seemed troppo ma non allegro if that makes any sense. And the menu was uninspiring. In Los Mirasoles it seemed "nice" as well but a little more natural and we saw some families with kids laughing and finally the menu and we went for it. Everything was perfect (except the Chongos Zamoranos which are truly gag-worthy, but perhaps everywhere) and the owner came over to the table and we talked about beans. I'm hoping Jaymes will chime in about her chile rellenos. She kept saying they were different but I was so into my dish that I wasn't paying much attention as to why. I was envious of memesuze's quail in chile, however.

 

The Emiliano's kalypso refers to is a well-marketed but vile restaurant out in burbs that I can't believe anyone would really choose as a destination. Looking back, it was kind of funny but to waste a meal in Mexico is a high crime, indeed!

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This really sums up Patzcuaro for me. If you look way in the back, you can see a guy on a ladder painting a sign on the wall. All the signs in Patzcuaro (and much of the area) use a particular font. When I passed him I asked him if he would paint me a sign that said Frijoles y Posole on tin. He later delivered it to the hotel and I was pretty thrilled. He was very concerned about spelling Pozole with an "s" but I assured him it's a gringo thing.

 

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This is the churipo that was served with simple corrundas (next photo). This sent me through to the moon.

 

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The simpe corrundas.

 

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I have a friend who worked on a US BBQ equipment catalogue. A lot of these bbq sets ups are like cars from Detroit. Boys and their toys! All it takes is earth and the elements and I bet the brew in these pots tastes a lot better than the Costco pork the BBQ set is trying to mask with sweet BBQ sauce.

 

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In Morelia. She wasn't very pleasant until after the photo was taking and then she kept smiling at me. She's making big quesdadillas.

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I envy you Ranchito! One of these summers I'll have to spend at least a month in Mexico. I have friends who go back for family vacations every year with their kids and I never have the time to join them. They travel allover Mexico.

 

The bbq setup almost looks like they could be making tagines in those vessels.

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Please post a photo of the sign the guy painted for you!

 

Courtesy of Cristina. I had to chop my head off because I'm so vain, not shy.

 

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Do you have a straight on photo?- we can then make lettering for you, your truck or your window :blink:

This is a great thread. oy Mexico.

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