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Look out for snipe, too - another bird I miss.

 

I was first directed to teal by Nigella Lawson - back in the days when she was just a good journalist, and The Spectator's restaurant critic, rather than celeb-food-porn-pin-up. I remember her describing eating teal as like eating little babies. Disturbingly, she didn't specify baby ducks; just babies.

 

It was not a disappointment. :wub:

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Well, I got a fresh pheasant at Quattro on Friday.   Roasted it, after much conversation with several people, much research.   Pancetta on the breast, blah blah blah. Did everything right.  

I have wanted to buy a duck press for a while. I learned from Lucas Carton that they sold the duck press they used to have in their dining room to another customer, and I was too late. This one look

deco - http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1303/A130301/13076679/   la chasse - http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1307/A130701/13025071/   takajo kotobuki - legendary but very hard to book - http://tabelog.com/toky

Snipe seems to be in the same floating - we have them but don't have them - world as woodcock at the moment. Very curious to try it though.

 

Baby-eating Nigella does seem a departure from her current image. Who knows what dark secrets lurk in Notting Hill though. I quite like the style of the 'early fame' books, the TV series seem to me when it began to get silly, and she does have some quail and grouse recipes in them, which is more can be said for most domestic cookbooks.

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For a first try I'd probably start with a partridge, they seem to have the greatest margin for error to me. Nothing fancy at all, just lard it with fatty bacon of some kind - I use either thick cut English straky or pancetta (make sure the whole breast is covered otherwise you can get weird dry bits) - and give it about half an hour in a medium hot oven. You can put seasoning between the bacon and the skin if you like, but that isn't really necessary if the bird is good. Partridge season is getting near the end now though, mostly older tougher birds I think.

 

I've seen some of those Bocuse recipes, although I don't have the book. The salmis preparations tend to require fancy things like game presses that one doesn't find in many home kitchens (or at least mine). The Becasse Maitre Ricard in La Nouvelle Cusine looks reasonably straightforward though, I'll try it when I can lay my hands on some of the little things. It also contains the most needless piece of cooking advice I've ever seen - on using Chambertin in the sauce - 'drink the rest of the bottle with the dish'. Well, what else exactly would one do with it...??!!

 

I tend to keep the actual cooking of the bird very simple though, if I'm going to do anything fancy it'll be in the saucing or accompaniment. Don't really see the point in messing with such intrinsically interesting flavors.

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lard it with fatty bacon of some kind - I use either thick cut English straky or pancetta (make sure the whole breast is covered otherwise you can get weird dry bits) - and give it about half an hour in a medium hot oven. You can put seasoning between the bacon and the skin if you like, but that isn't really necessary if the bird is good.

Does larding it mean just covering the skin with long, overlapping strips of bacon?

 

And how can thrush be obtained in NYC?

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Does larding it mean just covering the skin with long, overlapping strips of bacon?

 

And how can thrush be obtained in NYC?

Larding - exactly.

 

I suspect the best way to get thrush in NYC would be to, well, do the job yourself. :wub: Urban birds not the best idea though. There's a thrush soup recipe in La Nouvelle Cuisine that gets converted to grouse for the English version, Troisgros claiming they taste much the same...

 

I didn't get to eat game except squab and venison at all when I lived in the US, very much missed. Everything except grouse is remarkably economical in London - rarely more than 3 or 4 pounds a bird - vastly less than people pay to shoot them. I prefer the eating...

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To be a pendant, 'larding' is sticking pits of fat/fatty bacon into the meat, not just covering it.

 

A salmis is pretty straight forward, part roast then braise.

 

Regarding woodcock, they are pretty commonly shot. Infact they are often rejected by some paying shooters as they are not pheasant, therefore don't figuer on their mental map. Anyway, they are snapped up by restaurant, so they are not common on display at game dealers. The best thing to do is to get chummy with a game dealer and put in a standing order. Bought like this they are a bargin.

 

Prices in Edinburgh are:

Pheasant £3, Grouse £6, Red legged Partridge £2, Grey Legged Partridge £2.50, Woodcock/Snipe £4.

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Prices in Edinburgh are:

Pheasant £3, Grouse £6, Red legged Partridge £2, Grey Legged Partridge £2.50, Woodcock/Snipe £4.

That does make me jealous Adam, although the London prices aren't so much worse except for grouse which just hurts too much. Not seen any grey legged partridge this year except for the one I had with other MFers at St. John. I've tried chatting up the two game dealers at Borough for woodcock, but either they actually have been in short supply or I'm not cute enough. I've been told they get more common after the new year, but still not seen any, I'm sure its true that I'm being beathen to them by restaurants.

 

The basic principle of a Salmis I get, but the Bocuse recipes involve crushing the carcass in a press for juice not to mention truffles and foie I seem to remember...

 

As for the margin for error roasting a partridge, its no harder than chicken

 

:wub:

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I have missed Adam's pendantry. :wub:

 

Cabby, if you want to take Alex's advice on partridge - which is good advice - you can pick up a brace in the Bayard Street Meat Market for about ten dollars.

 

Four quid for a snipe makes me weep, though.

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Prices in Edinburgh are:

Pheasant £3, Grouse £6, Red legged Partridge £2, Grey Legged Partridge £2.50, Woodcock/Snipe £4.

That does make me jealous Adam, although the London prices aren't so much worse except for grouse which just hurts too much. Not seen any grey legged partridge this year except for the one I had with other MFers at St. John. I've tried chatting up the two game dealers at Borough for woodcock, but either they actually have been in short supply or I'm not cute enough. I've been told they get more common after the new year, but still not seen any, I'm sure its true that I'm being beathen to them by restaurants.

 

The basic principle of a Salmis I get, but the Bocuse recipes involve crushing the carcass in a press for juice not to mention truffles and foie I seem to remember...

 

As for the margin for error roasting a partridge, its no harder than chicken

 

:wub:

With the money you save on the birds, you should get this then.

 

Duck press

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Good god, $400 to crush a few ducks... A cute looking thing but that's a lot of birds! Can't quite see it fitting in my microscopic low-budget London kitchen... If I had a house in rural France, perhaps.

 

In a quest for thinner tortillas, a family friend first stood on our tortilla press - and he wasn't exactly the smallest person ever - decided that wasn't good enough, so then picked my mother up while still standing on it. The fairly sturdy metal handle snapped.... Fortunately probably a $10 press rather than that thing.

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