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Orik

Montreal

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what does "reductionist" refer to?

ori’s term for old schoolish French cooking with reduction sauces.

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I haven't been to candide but the chef seemed nice and thoughtful at least through the eleventh wine glass at lvp

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I haven't been to candide but the chef seemed nice and thoughtful at least through the eleventh wine glass at lvp

What happened at the 12th?

 

I hope if you choose Nora Gray, Adrian, you have a better experience than we.

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I've written up Candide earlier in this thread. Overall pretty good, some weird choices, but there is some pretty decent talent in the kitchen. Portions are pretty small, but if you get an earlier reservation, you can easily pop into lvp for a plate or two. I haven't been to Hoogan and Beaufort in ages. Since I last went, they've lost their pastry chef and their Somm. Menu seems to still read well though.

 

I haven't been, but no reason to believe that Monarque won't be good. Same people as behind Lemeac.

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pastel is probably in the handful of best modern fine dining restaurants in canada right now, though that's not huge praise, it's something. very clear post-noma-el bulli thing, with minimalist plating, complex preps, extracted chlorophyll and spherified tomato but also clearly a quebecoise-french restaurant - duck ballontine, perfect, with a reduced duck jus, sauces on almost every dish - with a very excited, friendly and young staff (perhaps too excited and friendly, but passionate), a wine list that is really not there yet (but still better than what i get in toronto) and a too bright front room. anyway, this sounds more tentative an assessment than it is - this is a recommended restaurant and has the potential to keep developing into something special. 

 

for the connoisseurs of brown food, there is a special on the l'express menu of escargots and chanterelles over a celeriac puree with demi glace and a sprig of parsely for your health. this is brown food par excellence.  

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PS, a number of cool drinking establishments. Most notably, The Cloakroom, Atwood Bar (perfect for pre-Joe Beef, etc) and my favorite, Bar George in the swanky Le Mount Stephen Hotel.

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Lesley Chesterman is retiring

 

"This is the first instalment of a three-part farewell by Montreal Gazette restaurant critic Lesley Chesterman, looking back at the people and places she encountered and lessons learned during 20 years on the beat."

 

https://montrealgazette.com/life/food/lesley-chesterman-leaves-the-table-part-1-compliments-to-the-chefs

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Poor lunch at L'Express. Poor service. Very fishy octopus and lentil salad. Sad, cold, flavorless Baba.

 

 

 

 

here's my report on a very good dinner at l'express earlier in the week. our octopus and lentil salad was great and not fishy at all. and the rum baba was a highlight. and service was excellent too.

 

lexpress-boudin-noir.jpg

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We'll be here late September, 3 nights, though one is a Sunday.  Joe Beef already reserved.

 

Where else this time - we didn't love Nora Grey, but it was certainly good, though our issues were probably more due to service issues (like being served the wrong main course amongst others).

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