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Many thanks to Helena for preparing Paula Wolfert's Herb Jam with Olives and Lemon (from her Slow Mediterranean Kitchen book). The greens (in this case, baby spinach, celery leaves, cilantro and parsley) are steamed and then sizzled, and absolutely terrific. I'm so used to eating them raw that I'd forgotten how dense their flavor can be when cooked. Baby loved them, too!


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