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We had a great time and couldn't have done it without all your advice. Three days was not enough time! I got back last night and am in the process of uploading photos, etc and will do a thorough recap in the next day or two.

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  • 2 weeks later...

My girlfriends and I had a great time in GDL. Thanks to everyone, especially Cristina, for your advice. Three days was more of a tease than anything but it was enough to get a lay of the land and to figure out what I want to do for our next trip.

 

We stayed in Tlaquepaque, just off Calle Independencia and right across the street from Adobe - it was a perfect location. The hotel was nice enough but I wish it had a pool.

 

Hotel Casa Campos' courtyard

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The hotel had these really cute and friendly pet monkeys. I have tons of pics of them but I think this is the funniest

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Our flight got in at 5:30AM and we got to the hotel at 6:30AM. Luckily we were able to check in early and take a nap before taking off for the day. First stop El Pescador Rojas. This is not the easiest place to find and it was the first of a weekend full of directions which constituted of "two blocks over, one block down". We heard that over and over and over - no matter what we were looking for. So, after walking around and around and around - we finally found it. It was a lovely place for our first meal in GDL, in fact - it was my favorite meal of the trip. Of course we had the red snapper.

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And the coctel de camerones

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guacamole (we ordered this everywhere as we are avocado-ly challenged in Seattle)

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We spent the rest of the afternoon exploring Tlaquepaque, which included taking a margarita break at the lovely Adobe

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After a nap, we headed to El Sacromote for dinner. One of the things we noticed was how empty most stores and restaurants were. Is it because we were there in the off-season? The economy? Probably both. Here we had one of the best things I've eaten in a long time. It was a blue cheese soup with chiles and it was fantastic

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We also had a chile appetizer that didn't sound like it should be good, but really was. It was stuffed with rotini, shrimp and cheese curds of all things!

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After a couple of decent entrees, we finished off the night with a Spanish coffee at Santo Coyote

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The next day, Sunday, was spent at the market at Tonala. It was interesting and fun and treasures were procured. Lunch was at a little place next to some galleries called Le Jardin

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To be continued........

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After more napping, we had the worst meal of our trip, at La Fonda. I'm not going to post the pics but suffice it to say the food was stale and left uneaten. The evening was not a total loss which brings me to a story about cabs. It became clear very quickly that most cab drivers didn't know our hotel, or Tlaquepaque, very well. Even showing them the location on a map they would get lost. So we took to having them drop us at the square and we'd walk back. Which we did after our dinner at La Fonda. Luckily for us - there was a show of local music and dance being performed at the square - and we ended up spending the rest of the night there. When we first sat down and our waiter came to take our order, he kept saying something about a cazuela. Did I mention that I speak no Spanish? Anyway, we'd "eaten" and weren't interested in anything in a cazuela so ordered beers instead. Come to find out, this was what he meant - kind of a Mexican sangria, served with a shot of tequila on the side (we figured it out after we'd ordered that night so came back the next day to try it out)

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On our last day, we decided to have a real breakfast out and went to El Patio. Unfortunately it was not good. My chilaquiles were the best thing on the table but the beans were awful.

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We then took a bus tour of the city - just to get our bearings. After some more shopping we had our last dinner at, oh, I can't remember the name and I guess I didn't take any pictures! It was just down the street from El Patio. It was lovely and the food was decent. As I mentioned - most places were very quiet. El Sacromonte was the busiest and it was less than half full. At both La Fonda and this last place, we were the only diners in the place for most of the night. It was a little odd because both seemed to be in very well visited areas of town.

 

We had a really good time and I look forward to going back and checking out some other markets. The shopping was fantastic and I was able to pick up a lot of Christmas presents. Next time I will spend more time in other parts of the city. We just simply ran out of time.

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Wow, you did a lot in a very short time! And thanks for posting these pictures.

 

I hope that all you had at Santo Coyote was coffee. IMHO, it's one of the worst restaurants in Guadalajara, although it's one of the most see-and-be-seen places in town. The food is godawful.

 

Here's the deal with empty restaurants at dinner time: comida, the main meal of the day in Mexico is eaten sometime between two and four in the afternoon. If a Mexican is going out for cena (dinner), it won't usually be until nine or even ten at night, or later. I suspect that you simply arrived at your dinner restaurants too early.

 

Turns out that I am going to Guadalajara on Saturday, returning home on Tuesday morning. The only place that I know I'm eating is at Karne Garibaldi, for comida on Sunday afternoon. The tianguis navideño (Christmas street market) is open now, so I will go there probably on Saturday evening. Most of the weekend is reserved for the Feria Internacional del Libro, the annual International Book Fair. It's the second largest book fair in the world and I can hardly wait.

 

Thanks again for posting!

 

For a peek at the tianguis navideño, look here: Christmas in Guadalajara

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Most of the weekend is reserved for the Feria Internacional del Libro, the annual International Book Fair. It's the second largest book fair in the world and I can hardly wait.

 

Can you report back on any new books we should be lusting after?

Claro que sí, con todo gusto!

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I hope that all you had at Santo Coyote was coffee. IMHO, it's one of the worst restaurants in Guadalajara, although it's one of the most see-and-be-seen places in town. The food is godawful.

 

Here's the deal with empty restaurants at dinner time: comida, the main meal of the day in Mexico is eaten sometime between two and four in the afternoon. If a Mexican is going out for cena (dinner), it won't usually be until nine or even ten at night, or later. I suspect that you simply arrived at your dinner restaurants too early.

 

Yes, we only went for coffee. Thank goodness! It was very pretty though.

 

We are very late diners and tried to go to dinner at 9 PM each night only to be told the restaurants closed at 9 PM. Only El Sacromonte stayed open until after 10. The thing is, they were also mostly empty at comida. It was a bit worrisome as you wonder how these places can stay open.

 

Have a great time on your trip. I'm sorry we missed Karne Garibaldi. Next time.

 

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