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Happily, since I spent most of the night wandering all over upper Manhattan, I had some leftover pasta with duck sausage I could quickly reheat. Along with steaming some baby broccoli on the side (why is it so much better than grown-up broccoli?).

 

I decided I wanted a Beaujolais with it. When I put on an album featuring the Würtembergisches Kammerorchester, I realized I could also have had a Knauss "Without All" Trollinger with this, but the die had already been cast. There's still a lot of summer left for the many bottles of the Knauss I have laying around.

 

2011 Domaine de Robert Fleurie "Cuvée Tradition"

 

I do have other producers' Beaujolais available, but Patrick Brunet's Domaine de Roberts just seem to jump into my hand when I'm looking for one.

 

Nothing notable about all his wines -- except how good they are. I could drink tons of this stuff. Hell, I do.

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I read all these threads about these fabulous dinners people have at home, with photogenic, obviously labor-intensive food, and legendary bottles.   I can't speak for anybody else on this board, bu

If I'm not enjoying wine when I'm seventy, then my nieces and nephews are going to be stuck with a shitload of wine they won't know what to do with.   Or my next wife, who by then should be almost

Whaddya mean? That's more than half the meals I serve. Tossed with great care, I might add.

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I got some gooseberries at last week's Greenmarket. Yay gooseberries! But then I got some epazote from the excellent Mexican immigrant vendors.* Yay epazote! So, while it might be argued to be a waste of perfectly good gooseberries, I decided to treat them like their cousin the tomatillo.

 

Pork cutlet in gooseberry sauce with epazote. Steamed sugar snap peas on the side.

 

One of those rare dishes that I just sort of made up that turned out almost exactly as I intended.

 

I knew what to drink with this.

 

2013 Domain Roameaux-Destezet (Hervé Souhaut) "La Souteronne"

 

Natural Gamay from the Northern Rhone. Funkier than even a New Wave Beaujolais. Lots of acid (to cut the spice of this moderately spicy dish). The fruit, while thin, is intense (also standing up to the spice).

 

Good (but, it must be said, overpriced: does this need to be $30?) wine. Great pairing.

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* They opened at GAP last year under the auspices of a Greenmarket program that offers support and assistance to minority farmers. But identity politics aside, they soon established themselves as one of the very best purveyors at GAP (and -- although some would say this is part of the problem -- much cheaper than other purveyors with similarly fancy produce). The most impressive thing, I think, is that they manage to be such excellent agriculturalists while also finding time to deal drugs, murder, and spread disease, as all the people the Mexican government sends us are bound to do.

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Sorrel is back!

 

SO: Scallops with sorrel butter (the fanciest easy dish I know) with what would be too much purslane on the side if it were possible to have too much purslane. (And, to start: CORN!!!!!!!!!) (This week, I threw caution to the wind and bought a shitload.) (Meaning for my pathetic lonely self, three ears.)

 

If a say so myself, a genius pairing.

 

2012 Weingut Christ Gelber Muscateller

 

I guess you can't go wrong when your wine is made by the Son of God, but still.

 

Everybody knows Muscatel/Muscat, a cloyingly sweet wine grape. Well, in Austria they vinify it dry, and call it Gelber Muscateller. Like dry Rieslings (not to imply this is anywhere near as good as Riesling), they retain the full flavor of the grape: there's just no sweetness.

 

This is an extremely delicious wine. Starts of with round stone fruit, and then -- while that's still lasting -- some tart acid kicks in. So it perfectly complements a dish like this that is simultaneously rich and tart.

 

Just a pleasure to drink all around, really.

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Spaghetti with smoked monk fish, sugar snap peas, and various early summer alia. Unfortunately, I forgot to reserve any of the pasta water, so instead of the pleasantly gloppy texture I usually seek, I got something kind of greasy. (An EAR OF CORN beforehand!!!!!!)

Inspired wine pairing (if I say so myself). I'm on a roll this week.

2013 Stifskellerei Neustift/Abbazia di Nonvacella Kerner

As I don't have to tell you, Kerner is a cross between Riesling and the red grape known as Schiava in the Alto Adige (where Kerner is grown) and Trollinger in Württemberg.

This is another one of those "there's so many good wines to drink" wines. There's no particular reason it isn't wildly popular. It isn't a specialist wine, like a Cote de Jura Chardonnay (my initial choice for this meal -- but then I decided to save it for something with a cream sauce) (this would have been really good with an Alsatian Pinot Blanc -- but I didn't have any) (that I could find). You don't have to school yourself to like it. It's just a good, distinctive, but approachable wine.

 

The initial flavor is sharp but exotic fruit. Not unlike a Riesling. Then it veers into something different -- a little darker and a little rounder. That MUST be the red grape influence. It doesn't have a particularly long finish. And the acid is more tucked-away than a Riesling's.

 

This would be good to drink with rabbit. I'll have to try that sometime.

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My bastardization of Donald Link's southern cassoulet, frozen long ago and reheated. It wasn't quivering or anything. If I don't post tomorrow, you'll know it was too old.

 

Some corn with this would have been nice, but I thought (incorrectly) that I didn't have time. Even with a microwave, defrosting takes longer than you'd think.

 

Grown-up broccoli rabe (from Bradley's) on the side. Not as good as in its infant state -- but still pretty great.

 

This southern cassoulet remains one of the best things I've ever made.

I knew what I wanted to drink with it.

 

2012 Domaine Les Sabots d’Hélène L’Alternapif

 

Domaine Les Sabots d'Hélèhe is where winemaker Alban Michel does his stuff. It's always referred to as a Corbieres, but the label calls it simply a "VdT".

 

This is a natural wine. The last flavor you get is the barnyard -- but that's an appropriate accompaniment for my cooking. Before that, you get some deep dark fruit -- we're talking really deep and dark -- and, of course, a lot of acid.

 

Very very good if you like this sort of thing.

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Domaine de la Pinte. Arbois, very light-hued, plenty of acid and that home-made note, but light fruit coming up behind it. I loved it with the Kreuther sweetbreads, and found a bottle at Back Label Wines in Chelsea.

 

Really good with steak tartare (my own) and fries (not my own).

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I must admit that i rarely read this thread.

 

It kinda horrifies me to listen to so many mediocre to bad wines described as very good or very very good or a pleasure or whatever. YMMV.

 

That said, some things require comment ...

 

Domaine de la Pinte. Arbois,

 

You haven't come close to specifying what wine you drank !

 

They make red wines. Multiple of them ... using different varietals.

They make white wines. Multiple of them ... using different varietals.

And I'm just referring to the appellation Arbois bottlings.

And in the Jura, vintage matters !

 

It's as if you said that you drink ...

 

Robert Mondavi. Napa.

 

Sorry. No can do. Try again.

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They make two reds, a Poulsard and a Poulsard/Pinot Noir blend, and this was the Poulsard, Pinte Bien, 2011. It seemed obvious to me I was talking about a red, but I can see that maybe it wasn't obvious to others.

 

Always a pleasure.

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Sneak you're plenty rich. Don't play us!

 

Wilfrid is spot on - obvi a red and chambo is just flailing about trying to prove his Jura cred - pointe isn't about glory, it's about drinking. I hazard to think what kreuther was charging for it, though.

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just got an email from a respectable local wine store seeking presale prices of $249 for 2012 Opus One and $115 for presale NV Opus One Overture for $115. i must be old remembering paying less than those figures for vintage Opus One. time passes i suppose (sigh)

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Sneak you're plenty rich. Don't play us!

 

Wilfrid is spot on - obvi a red and chambo is just flailing about trying to prove his Jura cred - pointe isn't about glory, it's about drinking. I hazard to think what kreuther was charging for it, though.

 

Good question, and I could only find the cover page of the wine-list online. Must dig out my receipt. And must also remember that I probably ordered a half pour.

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We're not all rich like you, Chambo.

 

Whatever !

 

I'm glad to know that you are my accountant now.

 

I'm talking about "taste" and you're talking about "my wealth" ... a subject on which you have zero knowledge ... but don't let that stop you !

 

It would be nice if you could stay on point.

The whole point of this thread is non-great wines. Read the first post.

 

Oh, you mean that first post where you describe that modest roussanne as, ahem, let me quote you, "EXTREMELY delicious" and "outstandingly good".

 

This wine is made from roussanne, but it doesn't taste like a Rhone. If anything, it smacks more of riesling -- although no one would say it really tastes like one. What I'd say is that it has the grassy citrus bang of a good sauvignon blanc -- but with a meatier, minerally, more chardonnay-like finish.

 

What it is, is unique. And EXTREMELY delicious.

 

Probably it wasn't as good a match for the food as the Jura melon, but it was so outstandingly good that it doesn't matter.

 

Yep, that was my exact point. And thanks for making my point even better than I did !

 

(Where is Orik's old byline when I need it.)

 

However it is true that the taste of wine is indeed a relative thing.

 

It's quite possible that relative to the food that you're cooking up, the wines do seem that good to you.

 

Like I said, YMMV.

 

One of the advantages of being a bad cook, I guess. (Your description of your cooking ... not mine.)

 

Wilfrid is spot on - obvi a red and chambo is just flailing about trying to prove his Jura cred

 

I didn't even have a whole bottle of wine last night and I'm getting ready to puke as I watch these guys patting each other on the backside ("Wilf is spot on ! ", "Good question, Adrian ! " ), oblivious to their obvious lack of Jura wine knowledge, specifically relating to Domaine de la Pinte.

 

I'll get to that in a future post, I hope. (It is earning season right now and I do have my family office to attend to. I'm sure you can undersand.)

 

In the interim, quick question for ya, Adrian.

 

So let's assume for a moment that Wilf's wine in question was obvi a red*.

 

Is Wilf "spot on" when he said he said that he drank a Domaine de la Pinte. Arbois. You knew what wine he was drinking ?

 

By direct analogy, is Chambo "spot on" to say he drank a "Robert Mondavi. red wine. Napa." ?

 

* And let me totally totally clear - I don't concede that point AT ALL ... ... but that "obvi is red" shit is really cool lingo, kid ! Can I borrow it if needed ? In return, I'll let you use ovni, that's French for a UFO !

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