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I read all these threads about these fabulous dinners people have at home, with photogenic, obviously labor-intensive food, and legendary bottles.   I can't speak for anybody else on this board, bu

If I'm not enjoying wine when I'm seventy, then my nieces and nephews are going to be stuck with a shitload of wine they won't know what to do with.   Or my next wife, who by then should be almost

Whaddya mean? That's more than half the meals I serve. Tossed with great care, I might add.

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Coming home unexpectedly late from the opera (I thought operettas were supposed to be brief) (I also thought subways were supposed to run), I made myself an elegant (if I may say) supper of scrambled eggs with smoked monkfish and shallots.

 

Champagne would have been a good pairing. But I had drunk A LOT of Champagne at the opera (one reason it ended so late was that the intermissions seemed endless -- and the best way to enjoy a performance of Die Fledermaus is to drink as much Champagne as its characters do) and wanted to switch to something different.

 

2012 Domaine Saint Amant Cotes du Rhone "La Borry"

 

I've found Viognier, in the past, to go with both eggs and smoked fish, so this seemed promising.

 

The big news here is how much better this inexpensive wine was than I expected. Honey, tropical fruit, noticeable but slight acid backbone. You know how sometimes non-Condrieu Viognier just seems kind of flabby? Not this.

 

I am already regretting not having bought more.

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I had a conceptually audacious and elaborate (for me -- it's actually a lazy reduction of a celebrated original) dinner planned. I worked out with care my plan for buying necessary stuff and preparing the meal. But I forgot the part about defrosting the frozen protein. Oops.

 

Good thing I have a seemingly limitless amount of premade roast pork mush at hand.

 

Since I decided to have it with a Northern Italian wine, why not put it on polenta? Santa Marcella's stovetop no-stir (well, little stir) method: I apologize to my college housemates, upon whom I foisted many servings of horrible horrible polenta made according to preceding recipes that called for constant stirring and that, at least in my experience, never worked. This was just great.

 

2010 Foradori Teroldego

 

This is Foradori's junior Teroldego. It's something of a commonplace that this is one of those wines where the entry-level bottling surpasses its more "elegant" but less forthright senior siblings. I wouldn't kick Granato out of bed, but I think I agree. (Amphora wines like Sgarzon are, of course, another thing entirely.) The same way a lot of junior bottlings of Chianti are more enjoyable than their makers' riservas.

 

Teroldego is something like an uncle of Syrah -- I'm not bothering to pull out Jancis, so you'll just have to go with me -- so it figures that it would go well with pork. Someone on the internet says it goes especially well with slow-cooked pork dishes, which this certainly is. I found it a very good pairing.

 

This one of those wines with a lot of acid but only a little tannin. So, good for young drinking. And it certainly helped cut through the large amount of fat on this blade roast.

 

But it's different from, say, a Beaujolais. The fruit is darker. The general feel is less exhilarating, more contemplative. More appropriate, maybe, to a dank winter night.

 

I don't want to go too far with the failed poetry. This isn't earthshaking. But it was a very nice bottle of wine.

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