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[Allendale] Restaurant L on Franklin Tpk

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Elisa Ung in the Record. She notes the place works well for burgers at the bar, or for a more formal dinner in the main room


One of Calcagno's most successful dishes is the Mediterranean chicken ($17.95), a pan-seared French-cut breast in a white wine sauce accented with capers and garlic, over an oven-roasted vegetable couscous. It was colorful, flavorful and nutritious to boot. Scallops are one of his favorite things to cook, and he brings pan-seared dayboats into cold weather with a rich sherry cream sauce with bacon ($24.95), though the sautéed arugula on top didn't seem to belong on the dish other than adding some color). A hearty sausage bolognese special ($16.95) was another dish for a chilly day. A special of a rib-eye steak ($31.95) was overcooked, but an obviously excellent prime steak; I could see specks of black truffle in the accompanying macaroni and cheese but couldn't taste any truffle flavor.


On the other hand, an appetizer of house-made short rib ravioli ($13.95) had far too much truffle oil; it overwhelmed the meaty pasta and made the dish overly greasy. A lobster and shrimp quesadilla ($14.95) bore a distinct fishy taste. A bowl of creamy polenta ($11.95) with a ragu of porcini, oyster, shiitake and button mushrooms was a far better choice, but we would have appreciated a warning about how devastatingly rich it was; next time I'd split it among several people or try it as an entrée. A special of pork shumai ($10.95) was ample but dry.



Restaurant L


9 Franklin Turnpike, Allendale; 201-785-1112


Their attractive website is singled out in the review. I liked its look, too



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