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White Truffle Possibilities


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Like every year, I continue in my pursuit of reasonably priced (relatively) and delicious all-white-truffle menus. I've sent an e-mail to ADNY asking about this, and will visit the $50/person place

I went into Buon Italia last winter to get some rice, and the whole back of the store reeked of truffles. I floated back on the aroma to discover a couple of people unpacking what was essentially a s

The pierogies are nuxbait, right?

And it's worth noting that the supplementary prices were announced without request. And so they should be, in a case like that.

But were the shaving quantities announced without request? How would one know how much white truffles would be added, and how meaningful is the price quote without the weight quote?

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  • 10 months later...

Well, I've booked for ADNY's white truffle dinner, for a while later:

 

Menu Tartufi di Alba

 

Seared Day Boat Scallops, Boston bibb lettuce velouté, shaved white truffles

 

Homemade Foie gras/tapioca ravioli, sunchoke broth, tartufi di Alba

 

Blue foot chicken breast fillet, vegetables “en blanquette”, Albufera sauce, white truffles

 

Truffled Brie de Meaux

 

Asia/ Bartlett pear, soft cake, “Vin Jaune granité”, white truffles essence foam

 

$ 290 Per Person

 

$290 is quite a good deal, for ADNY and white truffles, despite white truffles being lower-priced this year than in prior years. :wub:

 

At Alto, the white truffle supp was $75.

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Cabby, what other places might you have investigated in terms of white truffle menus? I will be making a quick visit to NYC in November and would like to try to enjoy a truffle meal...but, not Ducasse.I thoroughly enjoyed my truffle experience there a couple of years back. But, since I am not a fan of chicken, that kills the main dish...and Ducasse for this year. My current thoughts involve San Domenico, but I would like to hear your perspective. Thanks.

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If you're talking about white truffle menus (i.e., all or most dishes centered around white truffles), I've not taken in any in NY to my recollection (except for the misguided menu at Bueno something reported earlier in this thread). Apart from Babbo, I believe Fiamma usually has an all-white truffle menu (not sampled). Although I don't believe they were particularly generous, based on a friend's report.

 

I've only sampled selected dishes at various restaurants (usually as supplements): Per Se, Babbo, San Domenico... in NY. I can't say any have particularly stood out. :wub:

 

I've always wanted to try the white truffle menu at ADNY, but I don't particularly like Ducasse's cuisine (not just ADNY). But this year, somehow the $290 price seems slightly lower and I am swayed the other way. I saw my post last year suggested the price might have been slightly higher. I'd have to agree that chicken dish (as much as I like chicken) doesn't seen too appealing. Come to think of it, the lettuce veloute doesn't seem too good either. :lol:

 

Supps so far (shaving amount unknown): Alto $75; Daniel possibly $75.

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Supps so far (shaving amount unknown): Alto $75; Daniel possibly $75.

And of course, the $55/$75 supplement at Picholine, which I mentioned in my post over on that thread, along with a very negative opinion of the tagliatelle with which I had the truffles.

 

I think I've done ADNY's white truffle menu twice in my life, both during the pre-Delouvrier era (what was the name of that previous chef?) It was pretty good, both times. I remember that the truffles were excellent, and while the dishes weren't extraordinary, they complimented the truffles well. I believe the cost was $280 in those days. My ADNY/Delouvrier meal was so poor, however, that I'm not inclined to go dropping any money there for the next five years or so, even if Delouvrier did get fired faster than Billy Martin in the 1970's. Besides, I'm saving all my big restaurant cash for Alinea these days. :lol:

 

Actually, my favorite place in New York for white truffles used to be Il Mulino. They would grate a huge pile of them on some tagliatelle (or something such pasta) with a sauce similar to that used on their signature porcini ravioli. It was a great dish. Of course, I haven't been to Il Mulino in a few years, and I don't know what's happening there these days. However, I suspect that cabrales wouldn't be racing to her redial button, even if I could recommend Il Mulino based on current experience.:wub:

 

I had a fantastic white truffle dish last year at Tru. It was kind of, well, like this:

 

truffles3ip.jpg

 

Swan Creek Ricotta gnocchi with truffle emulsion and white truffle shavings. Paired with a delicious Mersault. Ahhh. I realize that this isn't relevant to a discussion of truffles in New York, but I'm hungry right now, and I'm rambling off topic. What are you going to do, call Jim Leff on me?

 

Tru and French Laundry might be the American restaurants where I'd most like to try a white truffle tasting menu, but alas, I don't think either will ever offer one.

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Supps so far (shaving amount unknown): Alto $75; Daniel possibly $75.

I had a fantastic white truffle dish last year at Tru. It was kind of, well, like this:

...

Swan Creek Ricotta gnocchi with truffle emulsion and white truffle shavings. Paired with a delicious Mersault. Ahhh. I realize that this isn't relevant to a discussion of truffles in New York, but I'm hungry right now, and I'm rambling off topic. What are you going to do, call Jim Leff on me?

Yes, Tru has an all-white truffle menu (or had at least). I had the non-white truffle tasting menu at Tru two years ago. But there was one white truffle dish, that Chef Tramonto was kind enough to offer assistance on in the dining room. :wub:

 

Previously posted, here was my white truffle dish at Tru

 

>> White truffle scrambled eggs, truffle buttered toast, Puligny Montrachet Paul Pernot 2000, Mount Eden Vineyards Chardonnay Estate Santa Cruz 1999

 

The meal continued along very very nicely with a large martini glass being presented to me. The glass was quite beautiful, with a bluish hue to its walls, but what was absolutely riveting to me was the large portion of the yellow of scrambled eggs! Glorious eggs! This was one of the dishes I liked best in the meal. Luscious, flavorful scrambled eggs that had more yolk to white than if the full egg had been incorporated. Tons of it! The martini glass’ volume was at least double that of a normal martini glass. I was smitten by this dish :D

 

But, to make matters even more glorious, who was to arrive at my table to shave generous amounts of fresh Alba white truffles onto the eggs that I was coveting (even though I knew the eggs were mine) than Chef Tramanto! He had one of those stainless steel truffle shavers, and was kind enough to load my already cherished heap of scrambled eggs with big fat slices of white truffles. I smiled at him thankfully. The aroma was just as it should have been, as was the taste. I would not have changed this dish in any way. It was classical in conception, and excellently executed. The martini glass concentrated the already significant aromas of the white truffle. I inhaled and gobbled (graciously, hopefully), inhaled and gobbled some more. Perfect scrambled eggs, pristine large white truffles :lol:

 

But here’s where the sommelier team also came through with the goods. Instead of serving me a single paired wine, there was an interesting contrast between the Puligny-Montrachet (a bit weaker on the nose and in the mouth) and my preferred California chardonnay – Mount Eden (wonderful). The Mount Eden was a very good pairing with its dish :lol:

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Per Se ... 2004

 

It is white truffle season, and, when a course is added (instead of a supp on an existing course), the price is $80. The two choices are: (1) tagliatelle -- too buttery, and (2) risotto -- too soft; not even close to al dente.

 

We ordered a la carte, with an added white truffle dish for each person.

 

Meal #8

October 16, 2004

Dinner

 

Me

"Steak Tartare"

"Tartare" of yellowfin tuna, fried guinea hen egg, "guafrette" potatoes and french pickle sauce

 

"Pot-au-feu" of striped bass

Savoy cabbage, Yukon gold potatoes, sweet carrots, black tuffle and "jus de poule"

 

[White truffle dish -- shaved at the table from a little humidor-like beachwood-colored box.]

 

Breast of Scottish red leg partirdge "rotie a la broche", glazed celery root, spice roasted fall squash, and sauteed moulard duck "foie gras" (serves two)

 

"Fondue" of Boerenkaase Gouda

Tasting of heirloom apples

 

"Saveur au pommes"

Honey crisp apple "mille feuille", red delicious apple srobet, spice bread "nougatine", and granny smith apple "gelee"

 

We decided against the wine tasting. 1/2 bottle of Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris ($30) was more than adequate, having been recommended by the lead sommelier (A Marc). We then had a bottle of Gevrey Chambertin, D Mortet, 2002, which was very nice for its modest price ($130-140).

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