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White Truffle Possibilities


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Like every year, I continue in my pursuit of reasonably priced (relatively) and delicious all-white-truffle menus. I've sent an e-mail to ADNY asking about this, and will visit the $50/person place

I went into Buon Italia last winter to get some rice, and the whole back of the store reeked of truffles. I floated back on the aroma to discover a couple of people unpacking what was essentially a s

The pierogies are nuxbait, right?

$320 before a drop of wine is drunk. I think for that dough I'd rather pick up some tagliatelle at Raffeto's or on Arthur Avenue and shave a blizzard of truffle over it. Or over a poached duck egg on a bed of polenta. Or a risotto. And drink some very good wine.

 

I even have a truffle shaver. :D

may i suggest a home made spaetzle instead of a purchased tagliatelle ?

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$320 before a drop of wine is drunk.
On the bright side, it's sure a lot more economical than Arpege's current truffle-less dining at 340 euros.

 

Then again, Ducasses's wine list is murderously expensive.

 

On the bright side, once again, it's still a bit more economical than Arpege's.

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I had an enjoyable meal at Babbo last night, because I wanted to taste my first white truffles of the season and did so :(

 

Not having reservations, I sat at the bar.

 

(1) Duck Egg Sunny Side Up with Guanciale and White Truffles

 

What a nice start to my white truffle season this year. And surprisingly, I had one of those rare moments of being grateful (!) for being in NY as a foodie. Very generous shavings (more than last year or the year before last, when I also had this dish). Aromatic. This bodes well for the white truffle season this year :( And not a bad deal at only $50 for the dish (not supp).

 

Crispy pancetta was a bit salty and unnecessary, but then I am a purist when it comes to egg variations and white truffles. Crusty bread included in dish was also not needed.

 

Nice white truffle shavings! :D

 

Other white truffle dishes at Babbo were (1) some flat pasta with butter (100 pp) and (2) veal chop (over 100 per serving). Like prior years, all white truffle tasting menu (except for cheese and dessert, which are included, but not truffled) is $250.

 

(2) Linguine with Clams, Pancetta and Hot Chilis

 

Al dente pasta was appropriate, and clams, small and in the shell, but this pasta dish seemed to have too many little cubes of pancetta. This distracted from the sampling of the clams and made this dish more about the pancetta and its unbridled flavors than the balance between the clams and the controlled hot chilis

 

Overall, a nice outcome white truffle-wise :D . Also makes me think that maybe the way for me to have more satisfying meals in NY is to have non-French-style cuisine. Also very reasonably priced. With a quartino of wine, only $90 before tax/tips.

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From the Borsa del Tartufo (albatartufi.com) this week :

 

Average quotation for the ALBA WHITE TRUFFLE – Tuber Magnatum Pico

For quantities of at least 100 g. Euro 2700.00 for a Kg. Price referred to a size beginning from 20 g up and for goods selected at the best. Different prices (even lower ones…) can be obtained for consignments with different characteristics in size, quality and for great quantities.

 

The truffles harvested in the last days are very low in quantity and for this reason is also difficult to select them in the best way. With the quality, the product is ameliorated in comparison of the passed week. Unfortunately even a low demand for the product on the market can be sufficient for a so poor quantity of truffles offered to produce a price increase

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Crispy pancetta was a bit salty and unnecessary, but then I am a purist when it comes to egg variations and white truffles. Crusty bread included in dish was also not needed.

 

(2) Linguine with Clams, Pancetta and Hot Chilis

 

Al dente pasta was appropriate, and clams, small and in the shell, but this pasta dish seemed to have too many little cubes of pancetta. This distracted from the sampling of the clams and made this dish more about the pancetta and its unbridled flavors than the balance between the clams and the controlled hot chilis

 

I don't seek out white truffles in nyc restaurants because it is a very expensive way to roll the food dice. Sounds as if you had relatively good fortune. Most of all, I would like to have a perfect little specimen in my own kitchen, for use over my own scrambled eggs and/or risotto. Fresh egg pasta too.

 

I agree that pancetta and bread seem irrelevant; it's about the eggs and the truffles.

 

I also agree that pancetta with the clams is a dubious idea, although rendering it and removing it might be useful and more balanced. Clams in the shell look nice and are easy for the kitchen but problematic for the diner, requiring the additional step of extracting them before enjoying a forkful of the dish. A good solution is to add some clams in the shell to a dish otherwise prepared with chopped clams. The chile in this dish is meant to be no more than a few flakes.

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$320 before a drop of wine is drunk. I think for that dough I'd rather pick up some tagliatelle at Raffeto's or on Arthur Avenue and shave a blizzard of truffle over it. Or over a poached duck egg on a bed of polenta. Or a risotto. And drink some very good wine.

 

I even have a truffle shaver. :D

may i suggest a home made spaetzle instead of a purchased tagliatelle ?

 

Tagliatelle purchased from the sources I mentioned is pretty damn good. And, shockingly I know, I prefer pasta to spaetzle. But perhaps risotto is the best vehicle for white truffles. I make awfully good risotto. :D

 

Completely off topic: I have had that clam pasta at Babbo, and it sounds like Cabby's was knocked out of balance by too much pancetta. When there is just a tiny bit of it in the dish it is awfully good. It impressed me enough that I have reproduced it at home a few times. And I don't agree that clams and pancetta are a dubious combination. Think of cataplana and how good that can be.

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