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Something I did like about the Sifton review, apart from the bit I wrote, was that he did take account of the overall "proffer" the restaurant makes. I would have expected two stars (definitely from Bruni), and in fact I think there's some two star food here. I think Sifton's view is that a menu of two star dishes, if they all feature copious quantities of meat and fat, can be viewed as a one star menu. And I think he might be right.

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Something I did like about the Sifton review, apart from the bit I wrote, was that he did take account of the overall "proffer" the restaurant makes. I would have expected two stars (definitely from Bruni), and in fact I think there's some two star food here. I think Sifton's view is that a menu of two star dishes, if they all feature copious quantities of meat and fat, can be viewed as a one star menu. And I think he might be right.

There's no doubt at all that if Bruni had written a review with that level of enthusiasm about the food, he would have awarded two stars. It's the clearest demonstration yet that Sifton has yanked the system's center-of-gravity for such places back to one star, where it belonged.

 

A useful case-in-point is Resto, to which Bruni gave two stars, but which was probably, at its best, never as good as the Breslin.

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Something I did like about the Sifton review, apart from the bit I wrote, was that he did take account of the overall "proffer" the restaurant makes. I would have expected two stars (definitely from Bruni), and in fact I think there's some two star food here. I think Sifton's view is that a menu of two star dishes, if they all feature copious quantities of meat and fat, can be viewed as a one star menu. And I think he might be right.

 

To me, it's that the menu is both limited and monotonous.

 

What Sifton suggests is true: there are nights when I could go to the Breslin, but just don't feel like it. That's almost never the case with my other late-night haunts, Ssam Bar and Minetta.

 

I suppose that explains why Sifton gave DBGB two stars (which remains puzzling to me).

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ETA again: I suppose this is what you get for being "meatcentric."

 

But it's ironic (Alanis Morissette usage). The real problem The Breslin has is that if you're a solo diner (or accompanied by someone squeamish), there aren't enough meat entrees.

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Which is why I ended up with the pig's foot as a solo diner. Discounting the burger, the only one person meat options were the beef shin, which I'd eaten before, and vinegared poussin. I am not always in a vinegared poussin mood.

 

Daisy mentioned the "small" terrine board. I've ordered that too, and it's really for at least two people.

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Last night the small terrine board consisted of generous slices of liver pate, headcheese, and three terrines: rabbit, guinea hen and pork. It's a lot of food. With a salad it would make a nice lunch or supper for two people but as an appetizer no way.

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