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Coming soon from Keith McNally, in a space on the Bowery. With chef Nate Appleman, recently of San Francisco.

1. It's a pizzeria, not Corton.   2. There is such a thing as overkill. *Two* stories in one day about pulling down the plywood screening fits that definition.

Yes, your meals make that whole corner irrelevant.

I must have been to Germany 15 or 20 times. I was pleasantly surprised to find that they do, in fact laugh a lot. I'll bet Behemoth can confirm that.

 

The problem is that good German humor is completely impossible to translate. If you speak German, know something about intra-German stereotypes, and can follow weird dialects they can be very funny. For the German speakers, two of my favorites:

 

(The Empire as Daimler Board of Directors)

 

Ditsche on the Bavarian "problembaer" (Very Hamburg-local show, filmed live and unscripted.)

 

Good cabarett can also be fun -- it was great once my German (and local pop-culture knowledge) got good enough to follow it.

 

But then, the locals also seem to enjoy some truly lame slapstick, and Gay Star Trek was like, a huge hit movie here.

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cops spotted a chain running from his belt into a pocket.

 

Hipster guys all over New York are going to have to change up their style a bit if that's all it takes for the cops to get all over your ass.

 

 

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I am pretty sure there was more to the story than just a dangling chain from his belt loop to his pocket. They don't call in three squad cars for that.

you have way more faith in the judicious use of force and resource by the NYPD then I do.

 

Says the guy who saw an empty tow truck get a two squad car escort down waverly at 630 this morning

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One of our table turned and asked the first person she could grab for a glass of water and it turned out to be Chef Appleman.

 

so, did he get her the water?

 

btw, the salad with hen o the woods mushrooms and parmesan etc was tasty but omg - it's presented like someone scraped leftovers from their finished plate into a bowl! a dining companion asked doubtfully if it tasted any better than it looked....

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btw, the salad with hen o the woods mushrooms and parmesan etc was tasty but omg - it's presented like someone scraped leftovers from their finished plate into a bowl! a dining companion asked doubtfully if it tasted any better than it looked....

Not what I recall at all.

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How else does salad look?

I think sometimes it looks composed. But I don't remember ours looking composed, nor do I remember it looking like leftovers....iirc, it was escarole with the roasted hen of the woods, properly dressed and quite good.

 

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Post-opera dinner date.

 

We got there at about 11:45 (on a Tuesday). It was about half full. My dining companion was surprised it was so crowded. I was surprised it was so empty. There are our respective worldviews in a nutshell.

 

They've started tweaking the menu. The "oven" section has been edited. I was at first elated to see the steak had been axed. "At least SOMEONE listens to me," I thought. (My dining companion was sure they were listening to HER, since she complained directly to staff rather than just whining on the internet.) But then I saw that the lamb -- that wonderful dish I had gushed about -- had ALSO been 86ed. But then I saw there's a new daily "specials" menu -- which had the lamb (but not the steak). I'm getting confused.

 

Anyway, we ate well.

 

From the specials menu, roasted asparagus with ramps and rhubard on a peppery marscapone. My dining companion thought the rhubarb was rather gilding the lily, but I was happy enough to see it. She thought the marscapone "unnecessary gunk", but I think that with vegetables the more gunk the better.

 

Cured sardines with carraway (good flavor combo there) and lots of little carrot discs were very good. But completely overshadowed by the smoked sable (which has been praised elsewhere). Nate Appleman obviously grew up loving this Jewish appetizing classic just as I did -- and now he's nailed it. This is served over a different kind of delicious gunk (somebody help me out here). For what it is, it could hardly be better. I will never go to Pulino's and not order this.

 

The so-called "Pulino's sausage" -- I think it's pork, beef, and lamb -- is also extraordinarily good. This is what this place must do more of to really distinguish itself.

 

While eating our sable, we grabbed a menu off another table, to try to see what the underlying gunk was. We noticed they had changed to their late-night menu. No sable. No (non-pizza) oven dishes. Cheeseburger.

 

Now I had realized we'd be there at Burger Hour. But I had planned to affect a cool disdain. My dining companion, however, said very emphatically, "WE CAN'T BE SITTING HERE AT MIDNIGHT AND NOT ORDER A BURGER."

 

It was strange. We called over our waiter and asked him if we could order a burger. He didn't look us over to make sure we were dressed cool enough. He didn't run back to the kitchen to see where they were in their quota. He simply took our order and then, a little while later, came back with a burger. It was just like ordering normal food.

 

I'm sure Cutlets could cite all sorts of differences in the meat composition, but to me the burger seemed at lot like the ones at Minetta. Meaning it was very good. The fries were cut much thicker than I prefer, but were also very good.

 

It is amazing how much lower-stress this was than the hype would have you believe.

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We got there at about 11:45 (on a Tuesday).

...

It is amazing how much lower-stress this was than the hype would have you believe.

I think the timing had a lot to do with that.

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How else does salad look?

I think sometimes it looks composed. But I don't remember ours looking composed, nor do I remember it looking like leftovers....iirc, it was escarole with the roasted hen of the woods, properly dressed and quite good.

 

i guess i'm just used to salad on a plate maybe? haven't eaten it out of a bowl much since my nj childhood. but it was really good and i'll eat it however they serve it tho i will wish for at least a prettier bowl.

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