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Coming soon from Keith McNally, in a space on the Bowery. With chef Nate Appleman, recently of San Francisco.

1. It's a pizzeria, not Corton.   2. There is such a thing as overkill. *Two* stories in one day about pulling down the plywood screening fits that definition.

Yes, your meals make that whole corner irrelevant.

Thanks.

 

You know, with reference to djk's point, it seems to me that a lot of the platings here appear to be willfully unattractive. I don't say that as a criticism, but only as a point of interest.

That's because the chef is busy getting water for everyone.

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But completely overshadowed by the smoked sable (which has been praised elsewhere). Nate Appleman obviously grew up loving this Jewish appetizing classic just as I did -- and now he's nailed it. This is served over a different kind of delicious gunk (somebody help me out here). For what it is, it could hardly be better. I will never go to Pulino's and not order this.

Sure. It's served on bottarga agliata; agliata being a sort of "mayo" made with bread crumbs, olive oil and vinegar but not egg yolks, and bottarga being, well, you know what bottarga is.

 

How else does salad look?

I think sometimes it looks composed. But I don't remember ours looking composed, nor do I remember it looking like leftovers....iirc, it was escarole with the roasted hen of the woods, properly dressed and quite good.

 

i guess i'm just used to salad on a plate maybe? haven't eaten it out of a bowl much since my nj childhood. but it was really good and i'll eat it however they serve it tho i will wish for at least a prettier bowl.

Ours was served on a plate, not in a bowl, which probably counts towards it being handsomer.

 

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But completely overshadowed by the smoked sable (which has been praised elsewhere). Nate Appleman obviously grew up loving this Jewish appetizing classic just as I did -- and now he's nailed it. This is served over a different kind of delicious gunk (somebody help me out here). For what it is, it could hardly be better. I will never go to Pulino's and not order this.

Sure. It's served on bottarga agliata; agliata being a sort of "mayo" made with bread crumbs, olive oil and vinegar but not egg yolks, and bottarga being, well, you know what bottarga is.

 

How else does salad look?

I think sometimes it looks composed. But I don't remember ours looking composed, nor do I remember it looking like leftovers....iirc, it was escarole with the roasted hen of the woods, properly dressed and quite good.

 

i guess i'm just used to salad on a plate maybe? haven't eaten it out of a bowl much since my nj childhood. but it was really good and i'll eat it however they serve it tho i will wish for at least a prettier bowl.

Ours was served on a plate, not in a bowl, which probably counts towards it being handsomer.

 

ha. so maybe mine was plate scrapings!

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

I won't be rushing back for the pizza. This was one of the most dried out pizzas I've ever had I think. I love anchovies, capers. tom sauce and moz, but this was up there with Otto's pizza when Otto first opened. And I love thin crust and not a lot of topping, and yes I have been to Italy a handful of times.

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  • 2 weeks later...

We wandered in here yesterday a little before five in the midst of a long stroll that encompassed the Limelight Marketplace (ick--claustrophobic, tacky and very overpriced merchandise) and the Shepherd Fairey pop-up on Orchard (very cute clothes for men and women, we did a bit of damage there). Our timing was ideal because as we were leaving the place was filling up rapidly and there was a line out the door. We only waited about five minutes for a table to be cleared. The downside was the limited 'between brunch and dinner' menu which listed only antipasti, salumi and pizzas. Appleman was in the house, mostly in the kitchen.

 

We loved the two antipasti we ordered. Very creamy burrata lightly dressed with olive oil was well-complemented by ribbons of pickled leek and candy-sweet roasted baby beets. The roasted asparagus and ramps were done to a turn and the accompanying light swath of very peppery mascarpone was ideal for swabbing the asparagus spears through. Scattered about the roasted vegetables were gem-like cubes of rhubarb which our o.t.t terrific waiter (this guy is a pro, my companion remarked) told us had been roasted in vinegar. The sweet/sour balance was ideal and this is a method I will be trying soon, the rhubarb really lifted the dish. Bread was unremarkable.

 

The pizzas are indeed reminiscent of Otto's in the early days but they are better than Otto's were because the crust is more flavorful. They do get a little cracker-like as they cool but at least they don't turn cardboardy. We had the margherita which was acceptable I'd say, the tomato sauce is as Sneakeater opined in his report very good indeed. The pizza with spicy sausage and broccoli rabe was very nice, especially when still hot. The pizzas are not by any stretch of the imagination Italian style nor do I think from quotes I have seen that Appleman is striving for that, I believe he describes them as 'bar pizzas'. Which I think accuarate.

 

The service was across the boards top-notch. The tables are unbelievably close together and when we were sitting my skinny-ass companion managed while squeezing onto the banquette to knock over the almost full bottle of prosecco on the table next us. The wine, before hitting the floor, soaked one of the pizzas on the table as well. The staff swooped in, cleaned up in seconds, whisked away the wine and pizza and shortly reappeared with a new bottle and a replacement pizza followed not soon after. My friend was so distressed by this that he offered to pay for the wine and also tried to buy the table dessert but the three completely and utterly charming Italian tourists who we had doused in prosecco not only refused but insisted on sending us glasses from the new bottle. Which we drank with our meal, leaving the bloody marys we had ordered untouched. This distressed the waiter, who thought we didn't care for them and offered to replace them with something more to our liking. We drank them after the meal, they were the 'Swedish Mari' variation with gin, lemon juice, dill and horseradish and they were excellent. Cappucino was good, tea was served with a little pitcher of steamed milk -- a nice touch. A coppetta of vanilla ice cream with pistachios and those terrific little Italian cherries in compote was no rival to Otto's. The gelato was a bit icy and grainy.

 

It was interesting to observe staff meal which was taking place a couple of tables away from us. An enormous salad, an even bigger pan of baked pasta, fries. I was stuffed but wanted to ask for a taste of everything, nosy creature that I am. And a table away from the dining staff sat two other employees with a cash box and envelopes doling out pay to various staff. That was a first.

 

The decor is sort of a mashup of Pastis and Schiller's and although the light fixtures are overhanging ugly double flourescent bars there is still a warm glow provided by the backlit shelves lining almost the entire place which are covered in bottle upon bottle of brown spirits.

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Eater reports on the spat between reviewer Adam Platt and Pulino owner Keith McNally.

 

McNally is unhappy that Platt reviewed the restaurant less than two weeks after opening, larding his review with "comments from other people" not from the professional reviewer. He also suggested that fat, bald reviewers might not be the best people to review a happening place such as Pulino.

 

One commenter asked if perhaps A.A. Gill should be invited to do some guest reviewing in NY. THAT would certainly infuriate quite a few restaurant owners, I'd think...

 

 

Out of touch, too

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