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Getting back to the quote, I wonder if part of the "free-wheeling joy" isn't the ambiance of French diners rather than American.    I often question if part of what I love about restaurants in France is that I can't easily understand the conversations around me, as opposed to being deluged with stupid patter in English.    It's probably just as bad in French but I don't catch so much of it so it rolls off like ambient noise.   

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But it’s my job to grapple with plays whether I like them or not. I would go so far as to say that my up-or-down judgment is the least important part of my reviews, since readers will inevitably disagree with me, bringing their own taste, history and intelligence to bear.

https://www.nytimes.com/2023/12/27/insider/appropriate-review.html

(emphasis added)

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From Eater's New Favorite Restaurants of 2023 article, this is so fucking stupid on so many levels:

Britt Lam, social media manager, Infatuation: The opening I was the most excited for this year was Naks. I haven’t actually been yet, so we’ll see if it lives up to the hype for me — but even if it doesn’t, I’m still happy to see more Filipino spots getting their time to shine.

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If you have deep pockets, go for the king river prawns ($49), freshwater crustaceans native to the rivers of Southeast Asia and behemoth in size. Of the three sauces, pick the herbal green one for its pungency rather than the curry or shallot sauces. Yes, peeling these things and extracting the meat is a messy pain in the ass, but worth it.

Wonder how many you get?

https://ny.eater.com/2024/1/3/24017486/nemesis-vietnamese-malaysian-thai-flatiron

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Posted (edited)

I know that I'm WAY too invested in this.  But the Eater Steakhouse Exception keeps going.  They'll celebrate mediocre (and very expensive) Uptown clip joints if they're steakhouses (which Eater is capable of understanding).  But ambitious restaurants get accused of sharp business practices if they charge what their ingredient costs warrant.  (I know, I know:  Fox Nat charges less than their ingredient costs warrant.  I guaranty you the margin on a steak at T-Bar is an order of magnitude higher than that on Fox Nat's prawn app.)

https://ny.eater.com/2024/1/8/24030234/tony-fortuna-t-bar-obituary

Edited by Sneakeater
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On 12/26/2023 at 12:44 PM, voyager said:

Getting back to the quote, I wonder if part of the "free-wheeling joy" isn't the ambiance of French diners rather than American.    I often question if part of what I love about restaurants in France is that I can't easily understand the conversations around me, as opposed to being deluged with stupid patter in English.    It's probably just as bad in French but I don't catch so much of it so it rolls off like ambient noise.   

How do you say  "L'enfer, c'est les autres" in English again?

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38 minutes ago, Sneakeater said:

I know that I'm WAY too invested in this.  But the Eater Steakhouse Exception keeps going.  They'll celebrate mediocre (and very expensive) Uptown clip joints if they're steakhouses (which Eater is capable of understanding).  But ambitious restaurants get accused of sharp business practices if they charge what their ingredient costs warrant.  (I know, I know:  Fox Nat charges less than their ingredient costs warrant.  I guaranty you the margin on a steak at T-Bar is an order of magnitude higher than that on Fox Nat's prawn app.)

https://ny.eater.com/2024/1/8/24030234/tony-fortuna-t-bar-obituary

never heard of it. 

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12 hours ago, Wilfrid said:

The headline is the work of a fool, but let’s bend over backwards to be fair, the author is likely not writing the headlines.

While I'm sure you're correct, I did once ask a once well-known restaurant critic (no longer with us) who wrote the headlines/titles for her pieces. The answer was simply: "I do." 

But let's move on to the article about Alison Roman's country "store,"  In which Callie Hitchcock writes:
 

Quote

 

Another wall boasted First Bloom sherry vinegar sourced from “Zoe,” presumably a friend...

 

Actually, no - Zoe is a brand, imported from Spain.

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2 hours ago, MitchW said:

While I'm sure you're correct, I did once ask a once well-known restaurant critic (no longer with us) who wrote the headlines/titles for her pieces. The answer was simply: "I do." 

But let's move on to the article about Alison Roman's country "store,"  In which Callie Hitchcock writes:
 

Actually, no - Zoe is a brand, imported from Spain.

this is a huge part of the problem, why "presume" when you can just ask or you know research. also, being unwilling or incapable of asking or doing research is assumption, at best

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