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Yes, they are apparently “conjoined cuisines,” and fine there are menus everywhere in New Orleans and apparently Harlem where you find Creole and Cajun dishes.

But what is interesting, if you give even a tiny caring fuck, is that they are different cuisines clashing together in the same place in the same period.

Also: Cajun cuisine is not a historic cuisine of Harlem (repeat message).

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  • 2 weeks later...

The question is, has the Times given up too?

ETA I meant to say in a more appropriate thread that Rosner has reviewed Le B. this week, but I haven’t read it yet. Right now, she is the weekly restaurant reviewer for the city.

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Wells just reviewed Noksu, a tasting menu restaurant located below ground inside the 34th St.-Herald Square subway station. It’s not easy to find his reviews on the website. To do so, I had to put “Food and Dining” in the search box. 

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11 hours ago, Wilfrid said:

The question is, has the Times given up too?

I'm not sure about this.

Here's a list of the restaurants Pete Wells has reviewed this year in reverse chronological order (and yeah, he's sure been taking a lot of weeks off):

Noksu

Café Carmellini

Eulalie

Port Sa'id

Hard to see an abandonment of coverage of ambitious restaurants there.

It seems, on the evidence, that The Times has expanded its coverage to also include less ambitious places along with the more ambitious places.  But unlike Eater, it doesn't seem to have given up on mainstream non-holes-in-the-walls.  (And, it doesn't blatantly misunderstand them.)

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15 minutes ago, Wilfrid said:

That's fair; I was thinking more of the Times giving up on weekly reviews. They've kept to a weekly schedule for many years.

I thought at some point Wells took over another column and said he'd switch to reviewing every other week. 

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31 minutes ago, Orik said:

I thought at some point Wells took over another column and said he'd switch to reviewing every other week. 

I'm sure you're right, I just missed it.

@Sneakeater Maybe reviews in news outlets? As someone who reads the NYRB, the LRB and the TLS I don't feel short of reviews.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Just to be clear and pontifical, the Dosa cart is really really good, and there's nothing wrong with spotlighting it.  (What was wrong with Leff's coverage of the Arepa Lady was the stupid hyperbole, not writing about her at all.)  Indeed, I think any broad coverage of food in New York City has to include things like this Dosa cart.

The problem with current Eater is that the Dosa cart coverage is put in the middle of things like Ten Bars in Lower Midtown With All You Can Eat Free Bar Snacks, rather than in the middle of coverage of other excellent things.  Indeed, appended to the Dosa cart article is a note that essentially says that European cooking with meat is deplorable shit that's not worth attending to.

With the unfortunate result that you can't tell from Eater that the Dosa cart is really really good, as opposed to just cheap.

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I am sure you knew that I was parodying the coverage, not that I know where the arepas are. The funniest thread on the original Mouthfuls was Orik’s on the arepa lady.

I do recall fantastic jerk chicken in a small family place and a slightly larger place, both around Broadway near Broadway Junction. I don’t travel for it as I clearly do for head cheese.

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