Portland, ME

[MitchW]

Even though I haven't tried it, I'm certain that if the lobster being served at Foxface is currently coming from Maine and is being caressed by Dave, it's gonna be good.

Because we had these beautiful 1.5 pounders last week, in Portland, at Scales. And they were among the best whole lobsters I've eaten.

Oyster list (here) was much shorter this time vs. last visit...

The bar is the place to sit...

They serve them right up in a trough...

Oysters from Maine are my favorites...

This special of clams with house cured hunks of bacon wasn't bad, either...

Just to round it out...

Three peas. And apparently a little ham.  Good, fun place. And they make a proper cocktail, at least at the bar.

A place we'd wanted to try on our last trip, but didn't get around to, is Twelve, located at the new-ish waterfront development known as Foreside.

It's not in this building...

But it's close enough...

The whole complex sure looks better on its website than it did in person!

Twelve has a distinguished team, led by...

Quote

Colin Wyatt returned to Maine after twelve years working in New York’s DANIEL and Eleven Madison Park, where he led the team awarded the accolade of “The World’s Best Restaurant” in 2017. A veteran Portland chef, the natural beauty, vibrant culture, and passion of Maine’s growers and creatives ultimately called him back to open the doors of Twelve. “Maine has always been a place I wanted to return to. As beautiful as it is, I think it’s the people that attract everyone to the state. This is why I came back and why I wanted to start this restaurant. Twelve is a way for us to be a part of this community and hopefully, add our own voice to it.”

They offer both a la carte and prix fixe dinner.

Everything on the menu is available a la carte:

The app portions are not skimpy...they're huge.  

The quite wonderful asparagus with a morel vol-au-vent.

Just as good fluke crudo with rhubarb and cucumber.

Had to have the pain as well.

This is the tautog, in a carrot bisque. Tautog, if you've never had, is a pretty delicious fish.

But enough of fish...I had well-cooked duck; the confit portion of the dish is the fried "stick," which really didn't work for me. The beets I put up with. Dessert was good, no pix. Had a good time and an excellent waiter.

Edited June 6, 2024 by MitchW

[MitchW]

This was kind of a special trip to Portland, because for the first time we were able to visit a place that had not been easily accessible on past visits.

It started at the Portland Museum of Art, where a number of Winslow Homer works are on display. 

This is Weatherbeaten; I do not believe it made it to the grand show that the Metropolitan put on in 2022; that was called Crosscurrents.

But the fun was just starting; after a quick tour of a few of Homers' works in the museum, we headed out to Prouts Neck...

And Winslow's studio.  The only way to visit the studio is via the Portland Museum.

His studio was originally a carriage house next to the family home, but the carriage house was moved a number of yards away from the home, and it was expanded to eventually include the 2nd floor, a gift from his brother (who was a chemist for Valspar, and a co-inventor of clear varnish!).

When you visit Prouts Neck, not only can one look out this window, which is the exact same size as the painting Weatherbeaten...

But one can also stand at the approximate spot where Homer worked on that piece of art...

On a much nicer day. 

That's our guide.

Pretty great day for a fanboy like me.

Edited June 7, 2024 by MitchW

[Wilfrid]

The above gratefully noted, any thoughts about a good old time bar or a fancy cocktail bar or anywhere else to eat on probably a two night trip?

[MitchW]

I heartily recommend Scales, sitting at the bar, for some of the best oysters in the US.  And great lobster cooking as well.

Also great oysters and selection at Eventide...https://www.eventideoysterco.com/

Bars aplenty:

Maps Bar, with lots of vinyl...https://www.instagram.com/maps_bar_portland/  (and they make a good cocktail, too).

Bramhall - a "modern speakeasy."  https://www.bramhallme.com/

Dock Fore...Old school bar with lots of TVs...https://www.instagram.com/dockfore1/?hl=en

For my money, a nice place to have a good cocktail is at the bar at Fore Street Restaurant...https://www.forestreet.biz/

Fancy prix fixe menu food, at not really that fancy a price is at Twelve...https://www.twelvemaine.com/  (looks like the do a la carte as well)

Sadly, the Winslow Homer studio tour appears done for the season.  It gets chilly out on Prout's Neck.

Edited November 18, 2024 by MitchW

[Wilfrid]

Thanks. Wish I could go for longer.

[Simon]

Scales is really nice, though I think Fore Street (in the same restaurant group) is even better.  Also agree on Eventide.

Don't make the mistake of going to Central Provisions, though.

[MitchW]

1 hour ago, Simon said:

Scales is really nice, though I think Fore Street (in the same restaurant group) is even better.  Also agree on Eventide.

They're fairly different experiences, to be sure.  For me, the bar at Scales is a lot of fun.

I can also boil it down to oysters, and the shucking thereof:

Here's how Fore Street's looked on a recent trip:

Like those bottom two oysters should not have been served; some of the rest are a hot mess too. Now Scales, for comparison:

Both the above from our 2023 trip.  This year, at Scales, we sat at the bar:

That's the real deal.  And a great Martini to go along.

Edited November 21, 2024 by MitchW

[Simon]

Yikes

[Wilfrid]

I spoke with a friend from Boston and she was crazy positive about Eventide and Scales so I have my orders.

[MitchW]

13 hours ago, Wilfrid said:

I spoke with a friend from Boston and she was crazy positive about Eventide and Scales so I have my orders.

Very different experiences...I like Eventide for lunch or even maybe "happy hour." Scales for dinner.

[Wilfrid]

Happy hour followed by dinner sounds like a plan. As St Liebling said about large meals, “oysters present no problem as they offer no bulk.”

[Wilfrid]

I have a reservation at Scales. Eventide only reserves for parties 6 and up, so I need to think about a walk in.

[MitchW]

8 minutes ago, Wilfrid said:

I have a reservation at Scales. Eventide only reserves for parties 6 and up, so I need to think about a walk in.

I think if you time it for mid-afternoon you should be OK.  Fortunately, it's not the middle of high season up there.

[Wilfrid]

Oh they are like five minutes walk. Maybe doing them together will work.

[Wilfrid]

Any ideas about daytime things to do are welcome. It is going to be…cool. Portland Museum of Art obviously. An old pile called Victoria Mansion looks cute. I need to see the Old Port area. What is West End like?

I found some good walking tours online that are available starting April.

[MitchW]

2 hours ago, Wilfrid said:

Any ideas about daytime things to do are welcome. It is going to be…cool. Portland Museum of Art obviously. An old pile called Victoria Mansion looks cute. I need to see the Old Port area. What is West End like?

I found some good walking tours online that are available starting April.

Lighthouses. 

[Wilfrid]

I just figured out I need to eat on Thursday night. The performance I am going for is at 7pm, Eventide closes at 11pm. Post-performance is the time to do it. Scales on Friday.

All this important stuff to think about.

[Wilfrid]

Who knows how the performance is going to work? The theater bills it as a solo performance by my buddy and has allocated 7-9pm. She is not going to dance for two hours. Well, I guess I’ll find out. 

[MitchW]

It’s not exactly a late night town, except for maybe some of the bars.

[Wilfrid]

I believe it.

[Wilfrid]

Easy flight. Pre-show Negroni at Bramhall. Why so few street signs?

[Wilfrid]

That was a good plan. At 9.30 Eventide has eight people seated and oysters are half price.

[Wilfrid]

$18 for a dozen outstanding local oysters. Then something called a scallop yaki waffle (with eel sauce and umami mayo) that I am at a loss to describe. Crunchy and warm it was a good contrast.

 

[Wilfrid]

Just got the check ten bucks for a Tanqueray martini, $11 for a good pet nat. I am making money just sitting here.

[hollywood]

Seriously?  Next you'll be saying you got a pousse cafe for $8.