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Alexander Lobrano offers his view of Vienna in the Wall Street Journal. He follows in the gastronomic wake of Emperor Franz Joseph II. Fran-Jo enjoyed sausages, tafelspitz, soups, breads, desserts, pretty much anything on a plate in front of him.

 

 

 

 

The Bank This former teller’s hall has become a restaurant as part of the beautiful conversion of a century-old bank building into the Park Hyatt hotel. The Austrian-born chef Stefan Resch intriguingly reconceives the basic elements of the Austrian palate with dishes such as smoked Alpine char with an escabeche vinaigrette, horseradish and fennel. “My idea is to respect traditional Austrian cooking, but to compose it differently,” said Mr. Resch. Park Hyatt Vienna, Am Hof 2, vienna.park.hyatt.com

Bitzinger This retro-looking sausage stand near the Albertina museum on the southern edge of the Ringstrasse is famous for its Sacher würstel. Augustinerstrasse 1, bitzinger.at/wuerstelstand

Gasthaus stadt A popular gasthaus serving Viennese comfort food dishes like leberknödelsuppe (liver-dumpling soup) and a variety of schnitzels. Florianigasse 43, gasthaus-stadt.at

Gasthaus Wolf One of the most popular traditional gasthauses, or taverns, in Vienna. Rienösslgasse 17/ Grosse Neugasse 20, gasthauswolf.at

Meierei am Stadtpark Located in Stadtpark on the southeastern edge of the Ringstrasse, this excellent casual cafe-restaurant is the little sister of the adjacent Michelin starred Steirereck. Am Heumarkt 2A, steirereck.at/meierei

Petz im Gusshaus Chef Christian Petz’s updated gasthaus pulls a fashionable crowd with a menu of his inventive contemporary Austrian dishes alongside flawlessly cooked Viennese classics. Gusshausstrasse 23, gusshaus.at

Pürstner This cozy wood-paneled gasthaus is a great place to satisfy a Wiener schnitzel craving. Riemergasse 10, puerstner.com

Restaurant Rote Bar A handsome portrait of Franz Joseph sets the tone at one of the elegant dining rooms at the venerable hotel, just behind the Wiener Staatsoper (opera house). Hotel Sacher Wien, Philharmonikerstrasse 4, sacher.com

Zum Schwarzen Kameel (The Black Camel) A wine bar and delicatessen with excellent finger sandwiches—smoked trout or calf’s liver pate with quince gelee, for example. Bognergasse 5, kameel.at

 

http://www.wsj.com/articles/a-vienna-feasting-tour-where-to-eat-like-an-emperor-1481730840

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two places to stop by after the visits to the museums and palaces (besides coffee and pastries, that is). one is on dorotheer right out of josef's platz called Trzesniewski (we decide the tr is silent

Nothing first hand but the following might be worth investigating ...   When I was dining at Azurmendi this past summer, I chatted for a bit with a very interesting, well-traveled and stylish couple

Vienna - pretty great. Airbnb in the Second District was great.

 

Dinner @ Petz im Gusshaus

Rudi's Beisl

Plachutta

Mraz & Sohn.

 

Petz im Gusshaus was my favorite "traditional" meal, followed by Rudi's - which was maybe a bit too traditional for me . My wife loved it. I think she was consistently surprised by how much the food was like what she grew up eating. (Her parents are from far southern poland)

 

Reminded again how much Semolina dumplings remind me of a good matzoh ball. The kids were in heaven with soups at every meal.

 

Mraz & Sohn was really great in the fine dining mold and did a wonderful job with our kids. Well priced for the quality I thought.

 

Demel, and Cafe Landtman for breaks. I'm just not a cake guy.

 

Shout out to lunch at Zum Schwarzen Kameel - which managed to get recced by both Monocle ( I love Brule) and a knowledgeable Chowhound poster - which is a rare double double.

 

Plachutta blows and is best avoided.

 

The city itself was wonderful. My second visit and again I wish it had been longer.

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