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Quite a contrast from Bruni. His first review (Babbo) really screamed, "This is what I stand for." Of course, we didn't know it at the time, but many of the comments in that review foreshadowed things to come. Sifton, on the other hand, has probably not chosen DBGB to make any kind of "statement."
Hopefully this means that Sifton's reviews will be less agenda driven.
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Quite a contrast from Bruni. His first review (Babbo) really screamed, "This is what I stand for." Of course, we didn't know it at the time, but many of the comments in that review foreshadowed things to come. Sifton, on the other hand, has probably not chosen DBGB to make any kind of "statement."
Hopefully this means that Sifton's reviews will be less agenda driven.

It will just be a different agenda.

 

And I agree with Wilf - I expect that Sifton will be at pains to show us how clever he is.

 

Bruni's review style was no accident. His blog posts, where I assume he had more lattitude, were considerably more restrained than his formal reviews. My strong suspicion was that the editors were pushing that borderline OTT style as a way to make the reviews more accessible to the general public. If that's the case, look for more of the same from Sifton.

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Quite a contrast from Bruni. His first review (Babbo) really screamed, "This is what I stand for." Of course, we didn't know it at the time, but many of the comments in that review foreshadowed things to come. Sifton, on the other hand, has probably not chosen DBGB to make any kind of "statement."
Hopefully this means that Sifton's reviews will be less agenda driven.

It will just be a different agenda.

 

And I agree with Wilf - I expect that Sifton will be at pains to show us how clever he is.

 

Bruni's review style was no accident. His blog posts, where I assume he had more lattitude, were considerably more restrained than his formal reviews. My strong suspicion was that the editors were pushing that borderline OTT style as a way to make the reviews more accessible to the general public. If that's the case, look for more of the same from Sifton.

I think OTT comes much more easily to Sam than it does to Frank. So hold on to your hats, everybody.

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The review is up: a surprising two stars. I predicted one, so did Leventhal, and so did the "accumulated wisdom" of the 167 eater.com voters (by a wide margin).

 

Neither Platt nor Sutton liked the place (one star each), but Bruni's retirement left a long gap, giving Boulud more time than most restaurants get to fix the place. I found the review entertaining to read. Whether it's a fair rating I don't know.

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The review is up: a surprising two stars. I predicted one, so did Leventhal, and so did the "accumulated wisdom" of the 167 eater.com voters (by a wide margin).

 

Neither Platt nor Sutton liked the place (one star each), but Bruni's retirement left a long gap, giving Boulud more time than most restaurants get to fix the place. I found the review entertaining to read. Whether it's a fair rating I don't know.

Now we know why he was at Restaurant Daniel recently.

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I enjoyed the review, and it made me want to try the place. amazing how effective it is to simply describe the food, add a little context, and perform some basic analysis. no need to spend three paragraphs about the moist upper lip of the nubile busboy.

 

 

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I enjoyed the review, and it made me want to try the place. amazing how effective it is to simply describe the food, add a little context, and perform some basic analysis. no need to spend three paragraphs about the moist upper lip of the nubile busboy.

 

 

 

:blink:

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I think OTT comes much more easily to Sam than it does to Frank. So hold on to your hats, everybody.

I disagree.

You don't think Sifton, when writing about food, is much less forced than Bruni and more, um, facile, when attempting to be clever? Because then you're right, we disagree.

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I enjoyed the review, and it made me want to try the place. amazing how effective it is to simply describe the food, add a little context, and perform some basic analysis. no need to spend three paragraphs about the moist upper lip of the nubile busboy.

 

 

 

:blink:

Before your time here. Short explanation: many of us thought Bruni's reviews, especially in the early days, tended to be a bit sex-obsessed.

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I enjoyed the review, and it made me want to try the place. amazing how effective it is to simply describe the food, add a little context, and perform some basic analysis. no need to spend three paragraphs about the moist upper lip of the nubile busboy.

 

 

 

:blink:

Before your time here. Short explanation: many of us thought Bruni's reviews, especially in the early days, tended to be a bit sex-obsessed.

 

And some of them thought that this was not a good thing. Go know. :huh:

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I think OTT comes much more easily to Sam than it does to Frank. So hold on to your hats, everybody.

I disagree.

You don't think Sifton, when writing about food, is much less forced than Bruni and more, um, facile, when attempting to be clever? Because then you're right, we disagree.

Like I said, I disagree with you.

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I enjoyed the review, and it made me want to try the place. amazing how effective it is to simply describe the food, add a little context, and perform some basic analysis. no need to spend three paragraphs about the moist upper lip of the nubile busboy.

Before your time here. Short explanation: many of us thought Bruni's reviews, especially in the early days, tended to be a bit sex-obsessed.

That is true, and besides, many of Bruni's reviews had long diversions that were unrelated, or only tenuously related, to the restaurant under discussion. Sifty's first is just fine. Actually, he gets to the point with admirable directness.

 

Now, critics do tend to get bored after a while. As someone once said, you run out of ways to describe the taste of asparagus. We'll have to see if that happens to Sifton. But I did not see any obvious howlers in this review, which is an improvement over Bruni's first essay in the genre.

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It had to start with the Ramones, I suppose. Then Talking Heads.

 

Yes, a decent review - if not entirely free of the unparseable:

 

...it bears masculine charms atop its cool concrete floors

 

Not to mention:

 

confitted

 

:ugh:

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It had to start with the Ramones, I suppose. Then Talking Heads.

He actually kicked it off with the Voidoids, by tweeting before the review was posted:

When I dine it's for the wall that I set a place. I belong to the blank generation.

 

:P

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