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An American in (and outside of) Paris

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That's terrible, chambo, I'm so sorry to hear about your troubles. :D


eta: just so you won't worry too much, prices in the Madrid outlet are actually about 10% lower than at Alborada (wine prices too). Rich people discount.

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"Je pense donc je suis" - Descartes, un francais. 17eme siecle.   "Je raconte donc je suis" - Chambo, an American. Twenty-first century.     I'm as free as free can be.   I move about with the

Pompéi - un art de vivre. Musée Maillol.   A painted Dionysus, the god of wine, welcomes you.   It's always fascinating to look at man-made objects from almost 2000 years ago.   Plenty of kitc

Believe it or not, some people still don't understand what this thread is all about. If you're too lazy to follow the link, here is it front and center:   Is it about food? Yes, to a certain extent

I fear Chambolle may be right ... ???




Truly one of the most egregious errors of tense that I can recall seeing in quite a while.


Let me help you out a tad, since you clearly don't write for a living ... "may be" = IS ABSOLUTELY.


I'm El [effing] Chambo Gallego, for crying out loud ! And when I'm not plunging for percebes, I'm eco-gardening for escargots bourguignons in the Batard wine region of France !


Just today, I found a whole bunch of those buggers here ... and here ... and here ...









And then I found even more buggers on the other side of the street ... here, here and here ...








Hey, look at that last picture ... Marquis de Laguiche ... Teague talked turkey about Laguiche in that WSJ article, remember ?


She also said ...


Right now, the "best buy" in Bâtard, according to Mr. Jacobeit, is the 2008 Drouhin Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru at $600 (or about $200 over retail).


Merde ! If that's Batard's "best buy" ($600 + tax + tip), Chambo thinks that Chambo would prefer to go to a Paris three-star and spend LESS for a better bottle ! Maybe even at Pierre Gagnaire ... come to think of it ... Chambo was there just last week ... and he snapped a photo, too ...




Hey ! Look at that ! Our good friend Carillon is hawking his Bienvenues Batard Montrachet at Gagnaire ... no wonder he hasn't been offering up any of that juice to dear Chambo.


And if you go for Pierre's modestly priced Batard, you can toss in a main course and you'll still be eating and drinking for less than you'd be just drinking at Bastard in NYC ! And eating and drinking at Gagnaire is often a winning formula ...




Well that was last week. Onward and upwards ...


Here, Patrick knows what he's talking about so this should get you started ... maps and all :




Today, Chambo was degust-ing with Patrick, the vigneron at Domaine Buisson-Charles. Had all his 1er crus en blanc, including a Chablis !


And then I even found this little guy on the wine list tonight ...





By the way, just cuz Montrachet is no more in New York, le restaurant existe toujours en Bourgogne ...



And the rebirth proceeds apace ...









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  • 3 weeks later...


Chanterelles and rabbit?


A very good guess ... not correct ... but a very good guess nonetheless.

Ahhhhh !!! ... nother very good guess ... but still no success ... but a very good guess nonetheless.


For the record, I do eat such things.


For I'll have you all know that I've been known to wapidly wulf down a wabbit, outfox a few too many frogs and I could even bear to tear into a toad if told too ... but a kiss ? You wish ! This, I dismiss.


For those who don't know El Chambo Gallego, he is frequently focused on foraging for frogs in France, assuming he's not eco-gardening for escargots bourguignons in Beaune nor plunging for percebes in the province of Pontevedra ... but if he were to hear a horse, of course of course, he'd be forced to change course.


However .... I can hear the neigh-sayers now, so I'll stop when I'm behind before I make an ass out of myself cuz you know that Chambo could go âne and âne and âne and on and on. And on. And this is actually my day off.


For those with fuzzy frog memories, here is what a good glob of frog should look like ...






This dish was whipped up on a whimsy in the middle of the night by myself to manage my munchies ... either that or it was a proffer of Pierre G de Balzac ... sorry, my memory is a bit muddled at the moment.



Where are you sleeping?


Voyager, my dear, with such extracurricular activities, do you really think that I have time to sleep ?


You can only effectively forage for full-throated frogs while tip-toeing around tiny toads in the black black black on the night night night.


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There was a solo diner ... with an Eraserhead hairdo and a big bow tie taking pictures. While I caught myself "observing" more than normal, the staff treated him with aplomb.

He was taking pictures of every dish. Maybe a blogger :rolleyes:

Not sure, but that might have been Chambo. I change my hairdo daily. You might have caught me on an especially good day.

Any news on where Le Squer is going in August with Alleno taking over? His food is great; I think a change in scenery (and staff) might be nice for him.




Le Squer - The doyen of Ledoyen.


I found it quite disrespectful that the French press was slobbering all over itself and praising and crowning Yannick Alleno as the new chef and savior at Mich 3* Ledoyen. In general, you didn't hear a peep nor read a word about the current chef Christian Le Squer in these articles. Almost as if he didn't exist. That really annoyed me.


And now finally an appropriate article that gives Le Squer his proper due. Seems as though the situation was very fluid, even after the initial leak of Allleno coming to Ledoyen.




Looks like Le Squer is going to initially focus on his other resto Etc - a Mich 1* in the 16th.


And by the end of the year, he's also hoping to undertake a new venture with Mich 3* ambitions, but he's taking his time and doesn't know where yet.


Le Squer is a gentle, humble, approachable, very down-to-earth guy. He should be involved in setting the tone for the service of his new place. It would be a solid improvement in my view.



Went back to Ledoyen just before Christmas and had some of his classics. World-class stuff. A true showcase of French cuisine. Mythic dishes.



Grosses Langoustines Bretonnes, Emulsion d'agrumes.


That's a crunchy ball of pure juicy crustacean flesh. I'll take a couple of dozen of those please !






Blanc de turbot de ligne juste braisé, pommes rattes truffées.


A beautiful work of contrast art with black truffles atop the white fish flesh.


Breathe it in baby ... ahhhhhh. Breathe it in. Smell deeply the frothy truffled sauce hiding her majesty's potatoes. Yes, it's okay to do it with your eyes closed. Again, breathe it in ... ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.


Now, repeat.


Nevertheless I found that the dish didn't quite live up to expectations. The thick turbot just lacked a certain moistness, a certain juiciness, a certain textural ambrosial chew that one searches for. Almost as if the fish was clasping itself tight and saying to Chambo "You are not worthy to eat me" !


Effing fish with feelings. I hate them.





Ris de veau en brochette de bois de citronelle rissollée, jus d'herbes.


This is pretty much the best sweetbread dish that exists.


A massive fist of a gland, criss-cross skewered by lemongrass spears.


An electrifyingly green sauce of unearthly herbal pleasure.


Spears of salsify that satisfy are qualified to bear the burden of all this thymic pressure.


A hedonistic dish to die for.







Croquant de Pamplemousse cuit et cru. As great as grapefruit can be. Full stop.



Godspeed, Christian !
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a Tangerine with brains.



I mean, is this really confusing ??? Guess so ...




A Tangerine ...





... with brains ...






Canard de Challans, oignon de Florence and other tidbits ...






et un vin de Touraine ...




By the way, would you thank that Chambo is wishy-washy ? Chambo is ... for good reason. Je m'explique ...

I've only been to this restaurant a couple of dozen times, so I'm still learning the ropes.

Normally, I order my main without any hesitation cuz I always know which main me's in the mood for here.

However, de temps en temps, I ask them which starter I want. Pay attention ... watch Chambo at work ...


So which starter do I want ?

La cervelle.

Hmmmm, je suis pas trop cervelle. Let me rephrase that ... do I want le thon ou le tourteau ?

La cervelle ! Do you have any brains, Chambo! Have you had brains recently ? Have you had our brains ?

Non. Non. Non. D'accord, but if I don't like your brains, at least I have someone to complain too. :)

Aucun probleme !




So why the long, boring story, Chambo ?


Cuz this is what arrived before I had any brains ... un peu de thon blanc !










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C, Perhaps, but I don't see how it could be any better than the Noix de Ris de Veau Croustillante, Oignons Doux et Truffe Noire that Le Taillevent Chef Alain Solivérès and his staff does...


P, The wonderful thing about "bests" is that everyone can happily have theirs and there's no need to needlessly needle the other's awful offal in an offensive fashion.


So I'm not going there. Why dispute someone else's favorites?


My best doesn't diminish your best, nor does yours mine.


In fact, it only makes our world even more wonderful to think that somewhere out there, orbiting far far away, there may be an even sweeter sweetbread to be fed !


P, I just wish you had shared with us a picture of your Noix de Ris de Veau.



All that said, on an unrelated note, that is an absolutely amazing telescopic lens you have !


And you must have taken that photo on a moonless Texas night, far far way from the Bright Lights, Big City !


The clarity is astounding. I didn't realize that you were such a serious astronomy photographer. Bravo !






N, I'm not totally sure. We'd have to ask P to confirm, but that would be my guess.


In the lower left of his photo, I believe that we are seeing one, if not two, of Saturn's innermost rings.


And on the right side of the photo, with absolutely stunning clarity (granted, pretty boring monochromatic clarity, but that's to be expected when the objects are almost a billion miles away!), I can clearly count six, maybe seven, of Saturn's moons. (There does seem to be some unexpected dirt, dust, debris and potato chips from the asteroid belt interspersed in there.)


These may be some of Saturn's infamous, unnamed moons and, if so, I believe that with such a pretty picture P has the right to name them. Who here realized that we had a modern-day Galileo in our midst ! Bravo, P !


But this is just highly-educated guesswork on the part of Chambo.


My next best guess would be that P's pic is just a slicked-up asteroid ... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Asteroid_belt#mediaviewer/File:951_Gaspra.jpg

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Quoteback: The wonderful thing about "bests" is that everyone can happily have theirs
C, Agreed, I hope that anything I said was taken to be supportive and constructive. Your sweetbreads dish looks equally fine.
(My previous posting to this effect yesterday somehow either didn't make for public viewing or somehow got waylaid. I hope that you see this one. Your postings on France are interesting. If my reply here meets a similar fate, I'll PM you [which hopefully should work.])
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Your sweetbreads dish looks equally fine.


Pssst, P, pssst, keep this quiet but between you and me, me ess-breads were barely edible. A wee bit gooey, a tiny bit chewy and a whole lotta green ... I mean I paid so dang much for them, I've convinced me-self that they was weally weally good.

I hope that anything I said was taken to be supportive and constructive.

P, chill ! Chambo's cool ... he can take it. I simply took what you and N said as support for my construct. That's the way I roll de temps en temps.


Life's all about give and take. And Chambo's not a taker but a talker who take it. (And give it ! ;-)


So what I'm trying to say is No Worries !

Alas, I only wish it were true but it's not ... cuz I am worried .. virrey virrey worried indeed !

I forgot to mention - when it comes to the Virrey (aka Kinmedai) at Laredo, go big.




I'm weally worried cuz the Madrileno is now saying something virrey virrey interesting that may be bordering on the believable. Can you believe that !


That's weally a reason for worry cuz it kinda flips this world upside down and inside out.


You see, El Chambo Gallego learned that "go big" lesson when he got stuck with this tiny little Virrey morsel when venturing very east of his home province in Northern Spain one sunny day ...






You see, the problem was my starter.


Normally I order half-portions of salpicon de bogavante, as I showed upstream in this post ...




But the suspiciously sweet Asturian staff in sandy Salinas swindled Chambo into entering into the unsavory endeavor of eating the "whole enchilada" of an ensalada de bogavante con su vinagreta. That said, I'm not looking for sympathy so don't cry for me, Argentina ...








By the way, how was your view while eviscerating that Virrey ? Was it kinda like this in the landlocked capital ?




But frankly, these views aren't all they're cracked up to be. True, it's nice to watch a bit of futbol between bites ...




But just imagine trying to enjoy your big bogavante while this bogus bozo of a hipster (without his wool cap, mind you, and that may have been his problem) strikes out time and time again ... it was difficult to bear his poor technique ...




So being the gentleman that I am, Chambo did a postprandial pickup and left our tres Brooklyn bather behind ...




... and wandered off with his new babe into the Bay of Biscay. All in all, a good day, I'd say ...





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