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Rome Restaurant Suggestions

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When in Rome (last about 2 years ago, next will be this coming Sept), we spend a bit of our time in Testaccio. We eat at Flavio al Velavevodetto & Trat. Perilli, peruse Volpetti and love wandering the back streets of this neighborhood. The area used to have a great old outdoor (but covered) market, a couple of blocks behind Via Marmorata. Around 5 years ago (my years tend to run together these days, but I think that's about right), due to neighborhood "development", they moved the market to where you found it. When they did, they only set up a small piece of it and continued the process of building new sections that you've now found fully operational. Looks like they did a major increase in space since we were there and it does look a lot like the similar renovation of the old Florence Central Market that was also completed in the past 2 years (the upstairs portion of that one was closed for several years).


At any rate, I (again) feel old bemoaning how things "used to be" but we really loved the old Testaccio market. It was a very old world place, with several vendors who were there for a very long time and were feeling squeezed out of their own area by the gentrification. Life in the big city, much like home in Brooklyn. When we went to the beginnings of the new place 2 years ago, the market was better organized, more businesslike and, to us, lacked the charm of the old place. Needless to say, there was a lot of opinion pro & con about these changes, but it seems that acceptance has come. As usual, Katie Parla has a good piece on it http://katieparla.com/the-new-testaccio-market/ that you might like to read.


All in all, glad you found our favorite neighborhood. And even more glad when you post about your adventures. They're some of the best things I read here. Thanks.

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The nice thing about Rome is that it doesn't change that dramatically.


We had (in February) an outstanding meal at Santo Palato. I've been trying to recreate a few dishes at home ever since, including just a spectacular bean soup, which is (I'm sure) better in February. Probably the sweetest service I've ever seen. I also had a pasta with gizzards and livers and stuff that blew me away, and their tripe was sweet and now I'm hungry for it.


We had what I consider the best classic or trad Roman food at Da Cesare...Significant Eater's veal dish was super, and my lamb scottadito was just what I needed after 2 of their wonderful pastas...their frying is also pretty damn near perfect for antipasti. Armando al Pantheon also handles Roman classics nicely.


Emma uses excellent product, and we like it for lunch. Roscioli for dinner if you stay within certain parameters of ordering (I don't find everything there to be super, but their selection of cured stuff is awesome, and their pastas are good), and their wine list is deep.


Lots of pizza bianca and rosso from the 2 places that do it best. Il Gocetto is still one of our favorite 2 wine bars; the other, Ai Tre Scalini, but talk about a zoo. Plenty of places to drink cocktails, but why?


I can't go to Rome without seeking out Bernini, and we did the full monty this past trip. Obviously, you don't have to go to a museum to see Bernini, as he's all over the city, but a few hours spent at Galleria Borghese always leaves me wondering if Bernini was human...



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Thnx Joe. I had been thinking about Da Cesare and Il Gocetto. Maybe we'll check out Santo Palato, too. We're planning on going to the Borghese. We have two days in Rome (both of us have been before)—the rest of the time we're driving down the Amalfi Coast, through basilicata to puglia, then back up through the apennines.

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Pizzarium: excellent pizza. Suppli varied but the carbonara suppli is a work of art.


Flavio al valvavodetto: perfect cacio e Pepe. Excellent in voltini. Porchetta. Osso buco was fine but not great. We were the only tourists. Would happily eat here many times more.

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