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The Pete Wells Thread


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Ha, no.

 

I don't think there are firm dividing lines between concepts like "set menu," "prix fixe," "tasting menu," "chef's menu," "menu surprise," and so on, and I know "table d'hote" has gone out of fashion. But I think the traditional "tasting menu" ("menu degustation" in French) tended to mean an extended tour through the specialties or signature dishes of the kitchen.

 

Arguably, restaurants which offer only a tasting menu have departed from this tradition in any case, because it was really a way to taste small servings of lots of things on the carte.

 

When it comes to a set meal of four or five courses (and the early courses at Contra and Alder, we can assume, will be about twice the size of an amuse bouche)--especially when it's a changing menu, which doesn't really reflect specialties of the house or chef--I think what we're really dealing with is just a four or five course dinner. (Three course dinners are a relatively recent invention.) Or, as it's a no choice selection, a "table d'hote".

 

(I agree, of course, that the term tasting menu is now assumed to cover all these things. Just like appetizing restaurants are delis.)

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According to Eater   Let the grumbling begin.

Even now when everybody has seen pictures of all the major reviewers, there's hope for anonymous restaurant reviewing.

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Thank you for laying that out -- I do think that Contra and places like it (that only offer one menu of multiple courses at a set price) need their own classification, if only because there are enough of them now.

 

Alan Richman had that piece last year where he called it "Egotarian" food or something like that.

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Which is a pity--partly, indeed, because it prompts apple-orange comparisons, like those in Platt's list.

 

It probably wouldn't be hard to find a four course dinner described as a "tasting menu."

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Oy, why does anyone need a homage to an In and Out burger? Nothing wrong with them, but this celebration (which increasingly extends to any kind of comfort food kids grew up with, hello Mac n Cheese ) is some kind of creepy infantilism.

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Oy, why does anyone need a homage to an In and Out burger? Nothing wrong with them, but this celebration (which increasingly extends to any kind of comfort food kids grew up with, hello Mac n Cheese ) is some kind of creepy infantilism.

Coming soon - artisanal hot pockets.

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