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the food looks great at the mexican place in the bronx

The star of the enmoladas is mole negro, a transfixing midnight-dark Oaxacan sauce made from fruit, roasted nuts, chocolate, spices and dried chiles that are blasted with heat until they are as thickly encrusted with black ash as a burned marshmallow. Tobalá’s mole negro is started at least two weeks before it is finally poured over corn tortillas filled with shredded duck. The mole has a slow-burning intensity but it’s also smooth, like the smoky mezcal from which Tobalá borrowed its name.



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