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Gwynnett St.


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In the absence of Oakapple, I'll note that Gwynnett St. is probably the kind of restaurant Wells would simply decline to review if he wasn't going to give it a favorable write-up. (Like Allswell only made it to "Dining Briefs".) So I think the fact they're getting reviewed (if it is a fact) is pretty great for them.

 

Yup. Two stars if he asked for the duck well done. Maybe just one otherwise.

 

Of course with Wells everything is possible.

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so this is a relatively new restaurant in Williamsburg where the kitchen is run by a WD-50 alum and the wine and maybe the rest of the service is courtesy of someone from Esca. not sure what was in t

Uh-oh response (for the record)

A good two star. Seems about right. Maybe I should have ordered the duck.

 

He also thinks the wine list is adventurous and affordable and that tofu made from soy is rubbery.

Good for them anyway.

p.s. even Wells realizes Brooklyn is over.

And while it is a restaurant in Brooklyn, Gwynnett St. is not really a Brooklyn restaurant. There are no butchers’ tools hanging from reclaimed barn doors. Under the eye of Carl McCoy, the proprietor, the dining room staff is calmly professional, utterly free of pretense and attitude. Nobody is the least bit likely to pull up a chair and offer to show you pictures of the sauerkraut the chef is currently fermenting inside a pair of Red Wing boots.

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  • 1 month later...

a second meal here was less successful. I had the lamb dish again, which was slightly better than it was. not sure what changed but the flavors seemed deeper. (beer before the meal?)

 

my main was a beef dish where some pieces of skirt steak had been marinated in nori and surrounded with cooked and marinated radishes. the beef had an interesting gaminess and the modern cooking made the fattiness of the cut very apparent. while the beef was interesting I don't think it worked particularly well with the garnish which wasn't good on it's own. I wouldn't order this if you're looking to eat a regular piece of beef. I don't think it was related to beef that wilfrid had.

 

desert was great, but I don't remember anything about it.

 

the beer list is better than I remembered, a couple of decent choices. my wife, a rube of a cocktilian, liked her cocktail.

 

service was good.

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I'm having trouble sorting out my feelings about this place.

 

I think I was mildly disappointed. On the other hand, there were enough attractive menu choices that I'd be interested in going back.

 

Also, I think one reason I was disappointed is that this is a style of food -- New American -- that I just don't find very interesting. So that's a consideration.

 

I started with what was described on the menu as "peas, radishes, and curds and whey." I wasn't really expecting the salad I got, many more peashoots than peas -- and not enough of the cheese, in my fatty-protein-hungry estimation. But here's what really brought me down about this dish: it occurred to me that if I had this sort of dish at Franny's, it would just be bursting with pea flavor -- and this somehow just wasn't. In fact, it was rather flavorless. I have no idea why that would be. Is it sourcing?

 

My main dish, on the other hand, was a hit. Pike, poached in olive oil, with potatoes cooked the same way, and various foresty greens. Another of those dishes where Portland meets Copenhagen. At first, I thought the fish was undercooked -- it was pretty much raw at the center -- but the more I ate it, the more I appreciated how this let its pikey flavor shine through. The forest sweepings were neither here nor there: why do the ones in Denmark have a tangy bitterness that these lack?

 

Dessert -- mint cake with pickled green strawberries -- was extremely good (as all the desserts seemed to be). This may be one of those odd places where the desserts are more distinctive than the savories.

 

The cocktail I had off the list was not that appealing -- needed some bitters, I decided -- but I asked the bartender to concoct a cocktail pairing for the dessert, and he came up with something excellent. The wine list is just as Orik said.

 

I think I would say this is a neighborhood place. I can't quite see travelling to it. Although it's much more ambitious than Thirstbaravin, I can't get as excited about it. That may just be a matter of personal preference, though: French bistro food is my very favorite, while, as I said, I'm pretty indifferent to New American.

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  • 3 months later...

Excellent dinner at Gwennett St. on Friday. Cocktails, food and wine were quite lovely, especially the lobster mushroom with corn purée starter and the huckleberry with graham cracker dessert, as well as the stellar "Bitter Truth" cocktail. Nevertheless, as fabulous as the food (and service) was, the company was better!

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As Nancy says, the company mattered. But I think I enjoyed my revisit to Gynnett St. more than my initial visit on grounds of food, too.

 

In a way, I shouldn't have. The food seems to have been, um, simplified a bit since my initial visit. But maybe that puts the kitchen's reach in closer proximity to its grasp. I enjoyed everything I ate.

 

I started with a chilled lettuce soup -- try to contain your excitement -- with roe of some sort, creme fraiche, and a promised cured egg yolk whose presence, I must say, escaped me. The days for such chilled green soups are passing, and as a last farewell of summer it was very nice.

 

A new dish (according to our waitress): steak -- try to contain your excitement -- with oysters two ways (crispy and not) and oyster mushrooms. What made this dish was that it was all (or at least the mushrooms and the oysters) cooked with the juice from the oysters. This gave the dish a deeper flavor and a generally more interesting profile. The steak was nice and salty -- a plus for me, a potential minus for others. Made me wonder whether they cooked the steak in the oyster juice as well.

 

Desserts are a strong suit here. I liked my honeydew melon with buckwheat/chartreuse balls (buckwheat/chartreuse balls are an idea whose time has come). But Nancy's huckleberry agglomeration looked just wonderful.

 

Next time. And there will be a next time.

 

(Yeah, it was strange to hear the Clash purring along in the background. But nice.)

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We went about 3 weeks ago and also had a very nice meal. I think I still feel a little weird eating in this type of restaurant in Bklyn but there are enough places at this kitchen level (& price point) now in existance that I'm getting more used to it. The place itself was friendly, interested in those dining there and professional... that combo itself is unfortunately unusual in many of the new upscale Bklyn places. I also had the lettuce soup, which sounded thoroughly boring but wound up being flavorful and worth trying. I cant say that anything stood out as outstanding but everything was very good and the entire dinner was one that, overall, was well worth it. Of course, we have a car so frequenting this (& other places) is pretty easy for us... although parking wasnt exactly easy, it was within a half block and 3 minutes search.

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