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On mange du chevreuil à Vivant - Vivant Table.

 

And you eat there at LUNCH. And you don't do the sucker's menu carte blanche.

Our lunch at Vivant Table was quite great.

 

But it took a long time for those fussy plates to come out of the kitchen ( no doe on the menu the day we were there). Oh, and the waitress was from Montreal - and wanting to move to NY.

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(By the way, Saturne aside, have you noticed that Japanese chefs are taking over Paris's nextgen bistros ? )

 

You should read Orik's posts:

 

I'm thinking about Abri too. Doesn't it seem like Fukushima had a side effect of Japanese chefs staying in Paris after stealing the secrets of top end kitchens, rather than going back home?

Tonight I had the most fun I've had in a restaurant in a long while.

This includes playing hoops with Pierre Gagnaire last night to the astonishment of staff. (and believe me, I might be just taller than Spud Webb, but I share none of his skill)

This was, of all places, at Agape Substance, but it was not in an obvious way. More tomorrow.

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(By the way, Saturne aside, have you noticed that Japanese chefs are taking over Paris's nextgen bistros ? )

 

You should read Orik's posts:

 

I'm thinking about Abri too. Doesn't it seem like Fukushima had a side effect of Japanese chefs staying in Paris after stealing the secrets of top end kitchens, rather than going back home?

Tonight I had the most fun I've had in a restaurant in a long while.

This includes playing hoops with Pierre Gagnaire last night to the astonishment of staff. (and believe me, I might be just taller than Spud Webb, but I share none of his skill)

 

This was, of all places, at Agape Substance, but it was not in an obvious way. More tomorrow.

 

Going away festivities for David Toutain?

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p.s. Breizh Cafe remains awesome. The oysters aren't what they used to be, but are still good, everything else is golden.

I really like Breizh as well, crepes, cider, salted caramel, and all for a bargin price! I'm curious as to how it compares with West Country Girl -- which seems to combine the hip esthetic with delicious eats. (n.b. I'm reluctant to use the tem hipster after reading n+1's exegesis on the concept.)

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Going away festivities for David Toutain?

 

"Hi, I read that Chef Toutain will be leaving the restaurant. Will he be there for service on November 29th?"

 

"Hi, yes, he will still be here, looking forward to seeing you"

 

...

 

"I see the chef is not here."

 

"Oh, yes, he's at some school dinner... some famous chef event... I'm making this up as I go along, you see"

 

But I've learned from the best - Suvir, Milton (Mina's cousin), Devi partners.

 

"So should we come back tomorrow? Sivan was looking forward to meeting him."

 

"No, no, tomorrow is mumble mumble, please stay, the cooking is the same."

 

Ok, now that we've established what you're doing here I don't need to show you your email.

 

The food was excellent, by the way, top notch molecularian execution of very seasonal ingredients, textures transformed, concepts challenged, who knew sunchokes can be fish? They even sneaked in some slices of parsnip chervil (cerfeuil tubereux), which I only tried for the first time last week.

 

Oh, except for the truffles. They were offering the regular menu as well as a truffled menu for not much more (40E I think), and I figured as long as we're betting on the food being better than making calls to find another place at 9pm on a Thursday (21 rue Mazarine is just down the road, but no chance of getting in, I was sure), we might as well do that. The first truffled dish comes out - pumpkin soup with truffles and something. There's no truffle aroma even though there are four of five nice slices. I pick one out, taste it carefully, there's maybe the faintest hint of truffle there... not sure if they're Chinese truffles or just really, really bad ones. Before I can tell them anything, another dish is delivered, with more utterly flavorless truffle shavings. I manage to hail the manager and his response "it's early in the season, that's why they have no flavor" - so why do you serve them? unsure.gif Anyway, I told him I'm not buying them and they reverted us to the regular menu.

 

 

Service was struggling with the waiters breathlessly running around to deliver the dishes and pour wine pairings. One of the fish, for example, seemed like it's been pressed and cured before being cooked sous-vide (very low temp sous-vide that leaves it looking raw, you know?). I asked the waitress what was done to it and she assured me it was roti. The contrast between the quiet concentration in the back and the headless chicken style foh was emphasized by the fact that the expediter was part of the kitchen team and was clearly chosen for his skill of being well over 6 feet tall and being able to watch the room. laugh.gif

 

The wine list, delivered on an iPad for some reason (there seems to be no benefit, it's just a list you can scroll through, or maybe I missed something) is more than just okay in terms of selection, but horribly priced, almost at New York levels (a few bottles in common with Saturne, for example, were all 75% to 85% more expensive).

 

But the fun - as you may or may not have read (not you, Nancy, our readers at home), the ceiling at Agape S. is about 7 ft tall and mirrored, which means it can be a pretty loud room.

 

And then, right in the center of the room, next to us, there's a party of six. One of them starts the evening somewhat loud, but as the wine flows he becomes louder and louder, moves from general comparative banter ("In France they eat this like so, but in North Carolina they eat it like so" ) to off-color anecdotes about ze blacks and ze arabs. He gets his party to make various sexual gestures with those little baguettes they serve (until one of the males pretends to perform oral sex on it, at which point he shouts "WHY DID YOU DO ZET? IT IS SO GAY!").

 

The waitstaff seems oblivious to the fact that the rest of the room is increasingly busy rolling eyes (the waiters are are, as you recall, busy busy busing hundreds of little plates), so I initially try to address one of that party quietly, but unfortunately there's no way they'd here anything. Eventually I have to assess the situation - he doesn't seem violent (and I have a brown belt in Krav Maga, you know), we're already done with most of the wine and starting to get desserts, and obviously we don't plan to return to the restaurant...

 

"EXCUSE ME"

 

"EXCUSE ME"

 

"WHO? ME?"

 

"YES, YOU. WOULD YOU MIND SHUTTING THE FUCK UP WITH THE ARABS AND THE BLACKS AND YOUR GRANDMA's CONDOMS?"

 

"But... I was just telling jokes"

 

"YOU'RE IN PUBLIC, PEOPLE ARE TRYING TO HAVE DINNER, SHUT UP."

 

"But I was talking in English..."

 

"It is not a secret language. Now be quiet."

 

You could hear a truffle shaving drop.

 

Then the dining room magically transforms into a normal, civilized place.

 

After the requisite mutual apologies with staff, we ask for the check. A Franco-American-Israeli regular chases us out to tell us it's usually a lovely place and that he's sorry it was so bad.

 

That was fun.

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p.s. Breizh Cafe remains awesome. The oysters aren't what they used to be, but are still good, everything else is golden.

I really like Breizh as well, crepes, cider, salted caramel, and all for a bargin price! I'm curious as to how it compares with West Country Girl -- which seems to combine the hip esthetic with delicious eats. (n.b. I'm reluctant to use the tem hipster after reading n+1's exegesis on the concept.)

 

I haven't been to WCG, hard to imagine it'll be as good, but who knows. I noticed Breizh opened a grocery next door with many Bordier products on display, but didn't have time to look inside.

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p.s. Breizh Cafe remains awesome. The oysters aren't what they used to be, but are still good, everything else is golden.

I really like Breizh as well, crepes, cider, salted caramel, and all for a bargin price! I'm curious as to how it compares with West Country Girl -- which seems to combine the hip esthetic with delicious eats. (n.b. I'm reluctant to use the tem hipster after reading n+1's exegesis on the concept.)

 

I haven't been to WCG, hard to imagine it'll be as good, but who knows. I noticed Breizh opened a grocery next door with many Bordier products on display, but didn't have time to look inside.

I've read the shop sells Bordier yogurt -- I'll test it out in 2 weeks.

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But too many of your posts are too concise.

 

Serious suggestion : consider posting (and dancing) CHAMBO STYLE !

Better. A step in the right direction.

 

Now let's take a little commercial break for our non-Korean-speaking audience ...

 

 

 

Okay, back to our regular programming.

 

A step in the right direction, BUT ...

 

"Hi, I read that Chef Toutain will be leaving the restaurant. Will he be there for service on November 29th?"

 

"Hi, yes, he will still be here, looking forward to seeing you"

 

...

 

"I see the chef is not here."

 

"Oh, yes, he's at some school dinner ...

OMFG ! STOP RIGHT THERE ! First time in Paris ?

 

You don't go to Agape Sub on a school night !

 

You don't go to Agape Sub with a sub !

 

And it doesn't matter what they tell you. It matters how they tell you.

 

This is France - the Land of the Lying.

 

Hence always use the phone. Phones work in France !

 

And don't forget about No Saturnalian Feasts on Monday Nights.

 

I'm starting to feel like a broken record but ...

 

Ignore Chambo at your peril !

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Chambo, enough already!

You're just hamming it up, CHAMBO STYLE !

You're not being constructive AT ALL and furthermore, you're being extremely insensitive to a fellow citoyen de la Nation PleineBouche.

 

Orik was in a terrible terrible bind.

What the hell was he supposed to do ?

Just exit stage right without ressie at that late hour and then be eaten alive by wolves in chef's clothing ?

You're right :( You're right :( You always are ...

 

Sorrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrry !

 

I was a bad bad Chambo. I was a naughty naughty boy. I'll never do that again. I promise ! :unsure:

 

But what's a mayor supposed to do when a very nice visitor comes to my historical hometown and moi, le maire de ChamboVille (aka Paris), is highly highly aware that said very nice visitor didn't even consult the mayor's wonderful web site !

 

Because on said wonderful web site (fully funded by the French government of course), we have backup plans for every single dining contingency that one can possibly imagine.

 

Specifically, we even have an entire section of Molecular Gastronomy Problems Solved Thru Poetry © Chambo 2012 where a quick Google search for "Agape Sub on School Nights?" would have landed you here :

 

Showing up at Agape Sub on School Nights ?

Don't hem and haw and huff and puff.

Don't get sucked into their truffle-less stuff.

Instead just head for well-bred Pig Bites.

A Hamapalooza is the answer to such plights !

Whereupon you could have clicked the conveniently supplied link that said - Eat a Lotta Bellotta instead !

 

And if the promenade sans pig is too long from point B to point C, then you could always pop into l'Avant-Comptoir for a quick glass of wine and some less prestigious pig parts (assuming of course that you have some extra-sharp elbows).

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On mange du chevreuil à Vivant - Vivant Table.

 

And you eat there at LUNCH. And you don't do the sucker's menu carte blanche.

Our lunch at Vivant Table was quite great.

 

But it took a long time for those fussy plates to come out of the kitchen ( no doe on the menu the day we were there). Oh, and the waitress was from Montreal - and wanting to move to NY.

 

A very nice place. Hasn't decided if it's the kind of place that serves you shungiku ravioli in a delicate emulsion, or a nice piece of venison, or a superb pork chop, or a dish of boudin noir from a can with squash and octopus.

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To understand what is going at Vivant Table one needs to appreciate that it has been a restaurant in transition depuis la rentrée.

 

Mine eyes and my tongue have been boudin-deep in seeing and tasting the transition.

 

Things are heading in the right direction but it's still a work in progress. I am hoping and expecting that Pierre will nail it. He always has in the past.

 

If he doesn't, it will be due to one simple reason - expanding too quickly. (Note that there are other things afoot in the Vivant Empire that I am not at liberty to discuss.)

 

If I find the time in the next day or so*, I may opt to do a dissertation to the Nation on Creation and Evolution ... the creation and evolution of Vivant Table bien sur !.

 

By the way, those conserves de Christian Parra are widely available for purchase. Da Rosa even sells them at retail.

 

And yes, Chambo does hold substantial booty of boudin a la Parra in Paris ... and elsewhere. Chambo is appropriately prepared for the Apocalypse. He has wine and food scattered about the planet.

 

Do you ? If you don't, you should. Ignore Chambo at your peril !

 

 

 

 

* If this Life Changing dissertation topic does indeed proceed with speed, then expect that it will inspect and dissect The Living.

 

This would naturally be reported on in the pages of The Chambo Daily.

 

640px-The_Anatomy_Lesson.jpg

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