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Rail Paul

Wandering the back roads and markets of Turkey

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Nice travel section article in the NY Times about a solo traveler visiting produce and fish markets of coastal Turkey. The focus seems to be on the section north of Ephesus and southeast of Istanbul.



As I followed him through the upper narrow lanes along which the market spread, vendors with 50-pound sacks of wild greens beckoned. After purchasing yogurt, cheese and square loaves of chickpea-yeasted bread, we stopped at the Cakirs’ butcher, who broke down two 25-pound lambs.

At Kaplan Dag I helped prep the sevketi bostan, a spiny thistle I’d become somewhat obsessed with after sightings at every market on my itinerary; it would be boiled, mixed with lamb and enriched with avgolemono, a broth of egg and lemon. At lunch the dish, which highlights the unique flavor of the thistle — it fell somewhere between artichoke and asparagus — complemented cold meze: rice-stuffed squash blossoms; a surprising salad of uncooked nettles mixed with chiles, tomato, whey cheese and dried mint; roasted small onions dressed with olive oil and sprinkled with dried thyme and piney melengec leaves. Tire kofte — minced beef molded to a skewer, grilled and then sautéed with tomatoes, crushed red pepper and plenty of butter — followed.






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