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Jeff Gordiner of The Times has another in his series of fawning profiles of new restaurants, this time ZZ's Clam Bar, the new upscale "clam shack" five doors down from Carbone.

 

From the sounds of it, this isn't a "clam shack," any more than Carbone is old-skool Italian-American, or Torrisi Italian Specialties is Mama's cooking.

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Jeff Gordiner of The Times has another in his series of fawning profiles of new restaurants, this time ZZ's Clam Bar, the new upscale "clam shack" five doors down from Carbone.   From the sounds of

Sorry, I'm sure this place will be wonderful, but this is funny:   As a first step, we have locked the chef in his apartment two miles from the restaurant. Next, we are going to move the restaur

Or:   "We are not getting in the way of the fish, except of course for briefly curing it in salt, marinating it in rice wine vinegar, submerging it in olive oil and finishing it with a strawberry re

Rich, you'll like this. Last night on TV I watched Lidia Bastianich make a big pot of Bucatini all'Amatriciana. A few minutes before she served it she threw in 4 tablespoons of butter.

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Rich, you'll like this. Last night on TV I watched Lidia Bastianich make a big pot of Bucatini all'Amatriciana. A few minutes before she served it she threw in 4 tablespoons of butter.

That actually doesn't surprise me since she's Yugoslavian. But in fairness that's not a typical red gravy dish. It's a bastardized version that has many recipes, though I've never see one where butter is added at the end. Normally olive oil or pork lard is used. But being Yugoslavian, Lidia used butter.

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Rich, you'll like this. Last night on TV I watched Lidia Bastianich make a big pot of Bucatini all'Amatriciana. A few minutes before she served it she threw in 4 tablespoons of butter.

That actually doesn't surprise me since she's Yugoslavian. But in fairness that's not a typical red gravy dish. It's a bastardized version that has many recipes, though I've never see one where butter is added at the end. Normally olive oil or pork lard is used. But being Yugoslavian, Lidia used butter.

 

 

But I guess she's also Italian, Austrian, Croatian, American and....Australian? Purity dilutes and there is no inauthentic.

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Boringly, she's entirely Italian. She was born in Croatia, but not to Croatian parents.

 

ETA: I assume Rich was kidding.

 

Actually she was born in Italy. A part that later became part of Croatia.

 

 

Correct, but it became Croatia when she was a few months old.

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BTW, Serious Eats is doing a more responsible job here than the Times Starter column:

 

Note: First Looks give previews of new dishes, drinks, and menus we're curious about. Since they are arranged photo shoots and interviews with restaurants, we do not make critical evaluations or recommendations.

 

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Sorry, I'm sure this place will be wonderful, but this is funny:

 

It's the most sophisticated kind of cooking. You have the best product and you have to really know how to handle it and have the experience not to get in its way.

 

 

As a first step, we have locked the chef in his apartment two miles from the restaurant. Next, we are going to move the restaurant secretly, and not tell him the new address. Fish will be delivered and left on the sidewalk. Our staff are under strict instructions to ignore it and pretend it doesn't belong to us.

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