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Sneak did you ever hit up those last two markets I was speaking about? Tlacolula or Abastos.. I highly recommend the one..

 

Here is my guys number if you need a taxi.. was very nice.. though, the other guy spoke better english.. I can try to find his number.. He worked as a cook in Milwaukee of all god for saken places..

 

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NYTimes has a guide to the city...     Travel section  

And I want to thank you for getting back with us and letting us know how it went.   All too often, folks give advice and recommendations and suggestions...   And then never hear nuttin'.   Fr

I'm not surprised. I think the whole Rancho Gordo thing is a scam. Mexico has pinto beans, black beans, and green beans. All these other things Rancho is selling are synthetic. Just wait.

Hambugers are huge in Oaxaca.. Lots of the late night stands in the city sell hambugers.. You are coming back from bar and you see a food stand off in the distance.. you walk towards it only to see them putting a grey lifeless patty on the grill and covering it with a bunch of shit.. I had no desire to try one but, i liked the name of this cart:

So their American food is just as bad as our Mexican food!

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Where did you stay in Oaxaca City? We're having problems booking Cuba, and your photos are making me think Oaxaca might be a good alternative!

We stayed in a placed called Parador San Miguel. It was clean and centrally located. Two blocks from the Zocalo. There are a lot more pretty hotels. Ones with pools and a lot more grand. We left the room at say 8 in the morning, shower and changed from 4 to 6 and got back home at one in the morning. So, we needed a bed and a shower. They also had a different towel animal sheet on the bed every night.

 

It was 66 dollars a night after I worked out a discount.

The staff was super nice and helpful and there was a roof deck and a few other areas where you can lay around outside. Not to mention the place has tons of birds in cages all around the hotel. So has very warm feel with the sound of birds chirping.

I don't know how the other hotels in this price range are but, this place came recommended by the red tree house in Mexico City.

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So after listening to Jacques Briel and Nina at El Situ, it was time to get a snack before lunch...

 

A rare sighting in Oaxaca... Didn't see much pastor.. But, this was decent.. I forget the name of the place.. It had been opened since the 70's I think.. Cafeteria style..

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Taco Time:

 

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We then went and spoke with a travel agent as we were going to fly to Huatulco but, the flights didn't work out.. So, we then went to a car rental place and decided to rent a car and drive around the surrounding towns to buy more carpets and clothes and maybe go on a Mezcal tour and then go to see the Ruins and the waterfalls..

 

After we had a late lunch, early dinner @ Origen:

 

It's another beautiful space.. There is a beautiful flower shop on the ground floor and dining upstairs.. It's a very grown up room.. Well, wealthy room for that matter.. There were two tables.. One table of very wealthy Mexican Women lunching .. Another table of very wealthy looking Mexican Dudes, drinking a lot and being loud..

 

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We got a couple of appetizers:

 

Their version of potatoes Bravas:

 

The combination was delicious.. The potatoes were not cooked properly however.. if they cooked the potatoes right, this dish would have been insanely good

 

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Mixed, not so pretty but, you can see there was a smokey pepper sauce mixed with the mayo.. Actually house made mayo as I can't stand the stale oily taste of Mexican Mayo.. A lot of McCormick's going around.

 

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Octopus.. This was actually rather forgettable as I forgot what this is:

 

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Baby pork lettuce wraps: This was some of the best pork I have had.. It was perfectly cooked.. The rest of the taco didn't live up to the pork.. But, it was delicious..

 

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We ended up going home around 8 pm and passing out..

 

We woke up the next morning and got amazing coffee and french/mexican style pastry right down the street from our hotel.. I suggest going here, Boulenc.. We got a beautiful juice and some really awesome pastries.. There were all of these young Bearded Mexican dudes.. We asked them where we should go, which towns have the best rugs and clothes.

 

. They all said, just drive to Puerto Escondido.. It's like 4 hours away through these beautiful mountains..

 

And away we went......

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The drive is not 4 hours away or the 2.5 hours the gps told us.. While it may be only 120 miles or so, it takes closer to 6.5 hours..

 

We drove up the mountain, which was dessert like and drove down the other side which was tropical..It was wild.. Like one moment the earth is red from clay, the next it is lush and tropical..

 

Along the way, there are all of these mountain towns.. People living in real poverty.. Like tin roofs, mostly sleeping outside, their only source of income seemed to be, renting their bathrooms for 3 pesos and selling some food out of their own pantry.

 

This was one of the more restaurant-y looking places:

 

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We got a few things.. they all sucked

 

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Can't believe I ate the lettuce.. Alicia wasn't eating any of this shit.. You can tell how poor they are by how loose the beans are.. They are so watered down, you can barely taste the beans.. And the freaking lettuce.. OY.. But, they are all staring at you and smiling and you know it's more than they have eaten.. So, you pay twice or three times the amount they ask for and you finish your plate and tell them how good it was..

 

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Orange limes were the best part.. Alicia ate these

 

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This pot is what got us in the place:

 

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on further notice:

 

it was sticks and trees.. she was making "medicine"

 

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Then this next bathroom break was funny.. Miss A was in the outhouse/restroom at these people's place.. I am at the table speaking in Spanish to the lady.. I asked what do you have.. She rattles off a list.. I asked for cecina taco.. She goes to her fridge and comes back and says, all I have is cheese and very very little chorizo.. Not wanting to be rude, I ate a cheese taco.. We also paid her like 5 times what she asked.. But the funny thing is, I hear a scream coming from the back.. Apparently, the woman's goat had stuck it's head into the bathroom with Miss A.. That's always a fun surprise.

 

Terrible..

 

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sometimes authentic does not taste the best

 

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Funny enough.. We yelped Puerto Escondido and put in a Fish Taco Stand and then followed directions to the Taco Stand in order to get to the place.. We knew nothing about the place outside of the recommendation of a hipster baker.. We arrived and it was amazing.. We booked a room at the Hotel Santa Fe.. We ended up splurging on a $180 dollar a night suite which over looked the beach.. It was perhaps 1200 square feet with a few balconies. It was beautiful and a great hotel.. But, there were hotels right on the beach for 6 dollars a night at a hostel with a pool, there were hotel rooms for 20 bucks, 40 bucks.. All over the place.. We thought were only staying for a couple of night but, ended up leaving the car, getting snowed in and flying back to D.F from Puerto Escondido Airport.. It was just too good to take the 14 hour drive back home..

 

 

 

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We made it there by sundown

 

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We hit the beach, then we hit a surf shop and purchased a pair of shorts for me and some flip flops which i didn't take off for the 5 days we stayed there..We spoke to the girl, she was a really sweet and scattered girl. .Something happened in the conversation where she got confused as I told her I liked the smell of the incense and then handed me a large chunk of hash and said "Welcome to Puerto Escondido" That introduction certainly set the tone of the trip.

 

We ate some fish tacos that night and went out drinking, met some cool people and spent the rest of the time just hanging out and chilling.. Puerto Escondido is the coolest beach I have ever been to..

 

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From our room:

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This was the last photo I took as we didn't carry phones for the rest of the trip.. there was a wedding procession that walked by our room one night: So cool, they hired or knew this terrible high school band and they walked through the town playing horrible music but, it worked and it was awesome..

 

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This is how I described Puerto Escondido to a customer of mine:

 

Puerto Escondido, there is not much to do there.. The sun is blazing hot as it's on the equator.. The waves are amazing, like 12 to 18 feet so there are a lot of surfers.. You can sit on the beach under an umbrella, or in a cabana or a hammock even and be served fish tacos and coconuts and hang out all day there and spend less than 30 bucks with several beers for your husband.. You can swim with dolphins or turtles or these glowing sea algae. We went horseback riding on the beach at Sundown, we went to a Jazz Show, we got hour long massages from this Zapotecan woman almost every day for $18 dollars an hour.. But, really you are isolated and there is just this beautiful beach and a few places to hang out. Our room was 180 dollars a night and we were 100 yards from the beach in a 1,200 foot suite with three balconies and had a beautiful view of the oceans directly from our room.. We splurged.. We met someone who was paying 6 dollars a night in a hostel with a pool.. There were other places that were directly on the beach and were 60 dollars..

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Whoa, that photo of puerto from the sante fe blows my mind. That main road wasn't paved ten years ago. And there wasn't anything on he beach side other than a tiki bar. The sante fe was the. Iciest place in town, with the Arco Iris a distant second. Th rockaway surf bungalows was $20/night if you could get in, and dinner at the bar was $5/person.

 

We would splurge on dinners at the sante fe every now and then. He chile rellenos en nogada were life changing.

 

Check out San agustinillo next time you make it down. Smaller, quieter, more beach and less town focused. Easy day trip, a few small hotels and room rentals.

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The rockaway was like 50 or 60 bucks a night now. Or maybe that was a hotel that wAs a little more nice. It was certainly no more than that. There were hostels for 6 bucks a night.

 

Sneak, I never claim to be an expert on anything. Always happy to be corrected. I don't know where I heard it but, I just repeated it.

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Yes, the Rockaway has a website now. It used to be, literally, thatched huts across the main street from the beach. Now they have nicer rooms, etc. A lot of snowbirds used to go to Puerto Escondido from Wisconsin and Canada. They set up in apartments around town and at the Rockaway for months at a time. Was a nice, interesting, crowd. We used to fly into Huatulco and then take a Suburban taxi for the 90-minute drive down to Puerto Escondido.

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I met a guy who had the top floor at the Rockaway at the Puerto Escondido Airport.. He was from I want to say, Idaho.. He rented the top floor for months at time.. He left his wife there, was on his way to somewhere else in Mexico to go fishing.. Then was heading back home to get his passport in order for going on a black bear hunt in Russia. He has been traveling around the world for some time.. He spoke about taking some awesome train in India, doing the Siberian Railway and then his hunting in Africa..

 

He had a whole phone filled with dead bears, lions, leopards and anything else that you could think of.. I was just thinking, this fucker is so lucky he didn't start showing unsolicited photos of murdered animals to my militant animal loving sister.. She would have to have people drag her off him..

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