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And I want to thank you for getting back with us and letting us know how it went.

 

All too often, folks give advice and recommendations and suggestions...

 

And then never hear nuttin'.

 

Frustrating.

 

 

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NYTimes has a guide to the city...     Travel section  

And I want to thank you for getting back with us and letting us know how it went.   All too often, folks give advice and recommendations and suggestions...   And then never hear nuttin'.   Fr

I'm not surprised. I think the whole Rancho Gordo thing is a scam. Mexico has pinto beans, black beans, and green beans. All these other things Rancho is selling are synthetic. Just wait.

We traveled from Oaxaca to uerto Escondido to Pinotepa Nacional back to Oaxaca. And then from Oaxaca to Cuicatlan, then to Tamalazumpan (sp) and then back to Oaxaca. Such good food!

 

Chorizos in the market:

 

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Tortillas being made at Itanoni:

 

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Lunch in Teotitlan, where they make those beautiful rugs. The cooking rig was set up on top of a wheelbarrow!

 

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All the colors come from natural dyes. The red is the most famous, from a bug lives in the nopales pads!

 

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Grinding chile de agua with garlic on the metate:

 

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Horse and plow.

 

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The farmers and Amado Ramirez Leyva, of Itanoni (right)

 

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In Pinotepa Nacional, a black mole enchilada. Two, actually.

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A field of costeño chiles drying in the sun. This is hard core porn for Oaxacan wanna be cooks like me!

 

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Clay pots from the mercado in Pinotepa. They were from a place caller Rancherita del la Virgin. I bought two and both made it home, happily.

 

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Bayo beans.

 

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I'm going to try and add some more later. I hate being home.

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tsquare, I asked about that once and they told me the key is a thin tortilla. The masa has to be fine (and if you're using maseca or masa harina you are cool) but the press needs to be thin. I noticed they'd press once, flip over and make sure the opposite side was in a new place, then press again.

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Breakfast. Kind of huevos rancheros with beans replacing the salsa. And some good tasajo for measure.

 

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Stopping for cocos en route:

 

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This was a small place at the beginning of the market in Pinotepa Nacional. You would never know the senora inside was a magician!

 

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She made the black mole (above) and sells the paste, which is somewhere between a liquid and an actual paste. It's incredible and yet she makes next to no money because times are hard and people don't have money and her labor is basically worthless. If there were just a way to export this stuff!

 

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Jaymes' headquarters in Oaxaca:

 

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Outside of the city, we hunted down a chile and bean grower I want to work with. He was napping as we came up and was pretty surprised by our party, which included a famouos telenovela star.

 

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His chile costeños in various states of maturity:

 

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His beautiful bean field. These were weird long beans, almost a foot, with tan Bayo beans inside:

 

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En route from Pinotepa to Pto. Escondido:

 

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The guys grew the elusive and desirable chilhuacle chiles; red, black and yellow, just outside of cuicatlan. The chubby guy on the right was really super hot. :

 

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squash:

 

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My new pal, Pablo:

 

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Cream of Poblano soup:

 

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Estofada de pollo. This is in My Mexico and Oaxaaca al Gusto by DK. It's a great complex dish.

 

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Church in Ixcatlan:

 

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Back in Oaxaca, this was a cazuela with boiling sauce and then eggs dropped in. It arrived bubbling. It was delicious.

 

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