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Pasteis de Belem are very good, which doesn't sound like much of a challenge given they seem like they're more or less equal parts flour, eggs yolks, sugar and butter, but they are a fine example of the genre. If prasantrin ever makes it to Lisbon, she should head straight there.

 

Cervejaria da Esquina is supposed to be an upscale/newfangled version of the traditional seafood format here. Unfortunately the chef has many project to worry about and his staff don't seem particularly motivated to cook, take orders, pour wine, or anything else. Top notch ingredients, sloppy preparation, everything grossly oversalted. A shame.

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Six of us are taking a cruise which starts in Lisbon and will be spending three evenings in there in the middle of April. We're staying at the Hotel Avenida Palace near the Restauradores Square.   I

Yeah, we wanted to see Sintra but we're barely over 48 hours in Lisbon so it will have to wait for another time. I have pasteis de nata on my must-try list. Thanks for the recommendation of Pasteis de

You don't "see" Sintra. You experience it through the fog.

Lisbon is wonderful, inexpensive and the food (and wine) is great. Second the pasteis de nata - get a couple more than you think you want. Trust me.

 

We loved Assinatura and also 1000 Maneiras - these were the two top meals of many excellent ones. For some other ideas and wine bars, see here:

http://thesavvyexplorer.com/lisbon

 

It's a wonderful city, enjoy!

 

p.s. for the savvy explorer - the taxi ride to Belem is only about 8 Euros and 15 minutes from Chiado. You can walk right into pasteis de belem and sit down if you use their table service, which I think will add a tiny amount to your check.

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Lisbon is wonderful, inexpensive and the food (and wine) is great. Second the pasteis de nata - get a couple more than you think you want. Trust me.

 

We loved Assinatura and also 1000 Maneiras - these were the two top meals of many excellent ones. For some other ideas and wine bars, see here:

http://thesavvyexplorer.com/lisbon

 

It's a wonderful city, enjoy!

p.s. for the savvy explorer - the taxi ride to Belem is only about 8 Euros and 15 minutes from Chiado. You can walk right into pasteis de belem and sit down if you use their table service, which I think will add a tiny amount to your check.

Streetcar!

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I've seen the coconut tarts, not sure about the almond ones. There's also pao de deus that looks a whole lot like melonpan:

 

https://www.google.co.jp/search?q=pao+de+deus&rlz=1C1LENP_enUS521US521&espv=2&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=gbqUU-aRO8fS0QXm2YDgBg&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ&biw=1920&bih=955

 

Anyway, you'd love it here, there are a trillion bakeries, even Eric Kayser is selling local pastries in addition to the usual offerings.

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Streetcar!

 

 

I paid my street car dues in SF!

 

Also, it's just 90 minutes walk through some pretty architecture in Alcantara. I don't think I'd come to Lisbon just for the food - there are other Spanish provinces that perform much better (as Chambo reminded us) - but it sure is pretty.

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My research tells me pao de deus is topped with a coconut concoction making it even better than melonpan (I was never a melonpan fan).

 

While you're in the 'hood, maybe you can go to the Madeira Islands and try some honey cake (bolo de mel)? There's a Portuguese provisions store here that makes them, and they are delicious. And if you come across Molotov, you can try that for me, too. We used to buy the failed Molotov from a local Portuguese bakery, and it's one of my favourite desserts.

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Lisbon food highlight for me was lamprey, as I always say when Lisbon comes up. Otherwise it was just honest neighborhood cooking, but I wasn't looking for any prestige restaurants when I visited.

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not the season for lamprey, but there are a lot of grilled limpets and other snails everywhere:

 

https://www.google.co.jp/search?q=lapas+grelhadas&rlz=1C1LENP_enUS521US521&espv=2&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=zVqVU-TbDJKa1AWT5YCwAg&sqi=2&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ&biw=1920&bih=955

 

100 Maneiras was nice. Modern plating, but very good, straightforward cooking. Like every other high end-ish restaurant here it suffers from the fact that they do not expect to see any repeat business (like nyc, I guess), but handle it reasonably well. The host seemed to be running on as much cocaine as Jack Lamb in the old days.

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It's a seafood, sausage, snails, and sweets city.

 

p.s. check out the presunto vertical tasting in the food stall part of mercado da ribeira and also, surprisingly, the "club del gourmets" at the Corte Ingles that's on the corner of Parque Eduardo VII.

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Solar dos Presuntos is a must - a sort of still living original version Minetta Tavern, but specializing in super sized seafood (and of course there are presuntos). Beautiful polvo a galega, escabeche of Lamprey (yes, season or not!), two tiger prawns, 12oz each, overcooked but still delicious, and a wild sea bream that I think was around 3 lbs, charged as two, 140 Euros + 30 euros on wine.

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